Krakow: Kazimierz

Next morning as I am getting ready I hear the bugle in the distance since I am not too far. It’s nice to have my windows open even though it’s wet air outside.

Today is expected to rain all day. I am not looking forward to it but I think I am prepared (Update – I am not!).

Usually my goal is to find a coffee shop when I wake up in the wee hours like I tend to do but like most European towns coffee shops open too late for my liking except for Starbucks which I try to avoid. Today I actually slept in a bit and believe it or not coffee wasn’t first on my mind. Today I am hungry and need to find breakfast somewhere near by. I decide to try the milk bar around the corner that I have on my radar to visit. A milk bar is a polish specific type of restaurant that offers affordable local dishes cafeteria style at times. I think the origin is from the communist era where they would provide government subsidized meals (many dairy items). The one around the corner from me is small but popular and often has a line outside. This morning I am able to walk in and get a table.

I order a traditional breakfast of egg, bacon and toast. I also order a latte since you can’t expect me to totally forgo the coffee – I am addicted. I especially liked that they had Depeche Mode playing the entire time I was there.

After breakfast I walk down to Kazimierz, about a 20 minute walk. I am early for my tour so I wander around the area. It has already been sprinkling which is annoying but it’s not too bad yet. I meet up with the local tour guide who starts us on a tour of the former Jewish area of Krakow. This is not the ghetto, which we will see later, but it was home to a Jewish community at different points in history. Apparently there is a history of expelling Jews from Krakow that did not start with WWII. The area is called Kazimierz because he is the king who originally made an agreement with Jewish people to let them live there and be provided protection. Once he was gone the agreement wasn’t always upheld and the community went varying degrees of persecution but the worst happened when the nazis invaded Poland. Over that period of time the population went from 65,000 to less than 5000. They were sent to concentration camps, or forced into labor to live in the Jewish ghetto. Eventually most in the ghetto came to and end during the liquidation of the ghetto, including many kids in the most horrific ways that I don’t even want to document here but you can google it if you want to know what had happened.

We stop by the Remuh Synagogue and cemetery. I will return later to visit this 16th century synagogue. My guide tells us this historic cemetery was used as a garbage dump by the nazis during WWII and it took a heck of an excavation to restore it. They aren’t even sure they placed the headstones correctly. It is very sad to hear a that place like this was disrespected so badly.

Schindlers Passage, not a real historical spot but was used in movie

We walk across the bridge to the Jewish Ghetto where the Jewish people that did remain in town lived during the war. They were not allowed to leave the walled area except for work. The food rations they were given were just enough to keep them from starving.

We end the tour at Plac Bohaterów Getta (Ghetto Hero’s Square), a place where they would select people to send to the camps. It is a solemn place, they have 65 chairs to represent the 65 thousand Jews that used to live in town. Most chairs point in the direction of the ghetto but there is one that faces Oscar Schindler’s factory.

After the tour I head back to Plac Nowy to have a quick lunch. I try the Zapiekanka which is basically a French bread pizza. It hits the spot.

I am soaked since my raincoat is useless and I am cold but St Marys tower is only open for the weekend and this might be the only day I can go so I rush back down to St Marys to buy tickets for the tower and church. The goal is to catch the bugle player while I am up there but unfortunately I am assigned a time that has me totally missing the bugle playing. Apparently you are only allowed to stay up there 30 minutes. It is very overcast so not the greatest picture taking but at least I warmed up and got one heck of a workout climbing the steps.

Before the tower I did visit the church where I got to see the Veit Stoss Altarpiece, a very ornate and distinct wooden altar piece. It is only opened for viewing limited hours a day.

After the church I walk over to Rynek underground museum that was way more impressive than I expected. I ended up spending about two hours there. In the early 2000’s there was a huge effort to excavate the town square because below existed a historic market place underneath the existing square. This museum showcases what was discovered during that excavation.

Finally bought an umbrella at the museum shop even though I was just going back to my room to rest. I’m tired of being cold and wet.

Back to room to rest and dry off a bit.

I go out for dinner in the mood for steak but the restaurant I wanted had no tables so I ended up a Turkish restaurant.

With a full belly and feeling bold I go try some of that cherry liquor, Wiśniówka. It’s very sweet and not as strong as I thought it would be.

I end up at a really bad wax museum.

I finish the night with one more fancy cocktail, where I almost lose my credit card. I guess it is time for bed.

Food tour is tomorrow.

First Day in Poland

I had three flights to get here in Krakow Poland.

It is a popular travel destination where I live but not necessarily a great gateway to most European countries, especially Eastern European countries. Due to flight scheduling and prices I picked an itinerary that had only about an hour layover on both my stops. I know you are thinking I am dumb and asking for trouble but trust me when I say these were the best of the choices so I took a risk. Flights out of my city are frequently delayed for weather in the afternoons and most recently another plane from the same airline caught on fire, as a result the passengers were forced to evacuate using the inflatable slide. But today my first flight goes out without an ounce of drama; as did my first layover. During my layover I don’t have time to explore but I have enough time to use the restroom and buy a snack with time to spare.

Arriving in the first international location is another matter. I had Amsterdam as a layover because I thought from past experience it was an easy airport to get around. I was wrong. And I have only an hour to get to my flight. First they do that thing that many European airports do and board the planes in the middle of a concrete lot, requiring buses to take passengers to and from the terminals. That is such a time waste – in fact the time to deplane and ride the bus was at least 20 minutes, if not more. Once in the terminal it isn’t immediately clear where to go from here. I got from google (the app never updated the gate) that I had to switch gates but I wasn’t aware of how long the immigration line could get (I eventually found a gate board after a few minutes). In immigration Sometimes the short connection line is offered but it is not today as I am told. Waiting in line it doesn’t seem like I am going to make it through in time since the immigration booths are understaffed. As the line slowly moves I learn I am not alone. Many in line are worried about missing our connections but they will still not push us to the front of the line. Probably tired of a group of us whining about missing our flights they move us to a short connection line. I have about 20 minutes or so when I get in this line before my flight leaves the gate so I am not too hopeful it even matters at this point. I get through with about ten minutes to spare and I sprint across the airport many, many gates over. I slow down in short spurts to catch my breath. I finally get to my terminal and my flight has been delayed by 15 minutes, not for us like I was hoping but because wheelchair passengers on the previous flight needed additional time to exit. Hey – I’ll take it. I’m stressed, sweaty and out of breath but I am making my flight and so does my bag. It appears my good travel karma is back (I thought it was lost when I traveled to Portugal last year and all my flights were a disaster).

I arrive in Krakow, Poland and the airport seems simple. I take a minute or two to arrange things before I go look for the train to the city. I download the transportation app (another app!) and buy my ticket. This is where I have one minor mishap. I didn’t fully pay attention to the google. The directions say take the train to a station and then it’s a 12 minute walk to my hotel. I get off at the main train station because somehow I got it in my head that was the correct stop. I am at a busy train station and I walk towards what I think is the exit to town through a mall. I look down at my phone for walking directions since I am close to the exit and it says I have over an hour to walk! Turns out I have gotten off too soon. I walk back to try to get back on the train which I took here but I am having a heck of a time finding the track its on since I only familiarized myself with the route to the hotel, not any of the other train station logistics yet. My original train has a while before it is coming back but I find another one scheduled to go to Zakopane that leaves right now and stops where I need. I hop on thinking I can just buy a ticket on the train. I never figure out how to purchase the ticket but it’s only one stop for me and no one asks me for proof so I guess I’m good. I finally do my 12 minute walk to the hotel where my room is ready so I am happy to unload.

Parallel parking is at whole different level here

Although I am sleep deprived, jet lagged and dirty I don’t take much time to freshen up since I see it is going to storm later and I won’t have much time to sightsee anyway, so I power through. (Note: The storm later is laughable with light rain and some thunder. I come from Florida so it is hard to impress me with a storm.)

My first plan is the visit the tower and altar at St Mary’s church in the Rynek Square but the tower is closed for the day so I decide to postpone both and sign up for a free walking tour that starts in 30 minutes. I am already exhausted so why not do another 2.5 hours of walking. I think it will be a good introduction to the city and I’ve been on the fence about paying to visit the Wawel castle anyway so hopefully this will convince me.

We actually start in front of the St. Mary’s Basilica. Our guide tells us stories of the construction of the towers and the famous hourly bugle that happens from one of the towers. The stories end up being completely made up. I am finding that Poland has lots of fun legends it tells but most of them are complete nonsense. We get to hear the bugle player a couple times and that is cool. The real story is it was used to open and close the gates of the city back in when it was a fortress.

Lil church around the corner from St Mary

We learn about some other dark times in Poland’s history (besides WWII) when Poland ceased to exist at all at one point in history. Our guide shows us a historic college that has connections to Copernicus and the former pope John Paul II.

Muzeum Uniwersytetu Jagiellońskiego Collegium Maius

We hike up the hill to Wawel castle to enjoy the views and learn the history. As suspected it has been completed rebuilt from one of its past iterations because it has been destroyed many times. I have castle fatigue so I think I can skip a non original museum but I might return for the cathedral that has many famous poles buried there.

We finish the tour at Wawel and I walk down to see the famous dragon.

I finish off the evening with an Italian dinner (Don’t judge me I’ll be eating polish food non-stop soon) and a walk through cloth hall (MNK Sukiennice). At first glance the cloth hall seems like a tourist trap but after visiting again the next day I think I may be able to pick up an interesting souvenir or two.

La sagrada familia

The visit to La sagrada familia was a long time coming. I had tried to visit the famous Gaudí cathedral around ten years prior but due to the church unexpectedly closing for a private event and then subsequently getting food poisoning the rest of my Barcelona visit, it never happened. Luckily this never finished cathedral is now ten years more completed then it would have been for my original visit.

I make a reservation to be sure I am able to get in during my visit. The group gathers outside for a while before the church opens. Finally we are let in and we get to see this amazing church virtually empty. I didn’t really plan it this way on purpose but it is quite nice to not be surrounded by crowds. I spent lots of time inside admiring all the different features and eventually the crowd does grow in time.

I can’t wait to return when it’s complete.

End of my travels

The next day I visit the House of flowers and the museum of Yugoslavia.

Google maps, while working fine the past two days, all of a sudden can no longer give me directions that includes public transportation options so I download a bus map to try to figure it out like the “old days”. It’s challenging because the language barrier.

I find my directions to the House of Flowers that includes a walk over a bridge and a walk uphill.

The House of Flowers is the official burial place of the beloved (and sometimes not) Yugoslavian leader Josip Broz Tito. Attached to the mausoleum are wall exhibits of photos of different events of Yugoslavia. It was truly a unique type of socialism in Yugoslavia.

Also nearby is the Museum of Yugoslavia. It is a collection of items related to the time of Yugoslavia. There is supposed to be another museum in the complex but it is closed for renovations. This museum is informative and has information in English but lacks some context for certain events, especially in the last 30 years or so. I guess it’s understandable because there are still things that can’t be discussed because there is not the political will. It’s best to just leave it unknown I guess than stir up anger. It is probably still too soon.

Later I tour the beautiful Serbian Orthodox Church the Church of Saint Sava. The church is magnificently beautiful inside. There is so much gold and bright features.

Lunch today is cevapi. Cevapi is one of my favorite Balkan dishes. The only disappointing thing is that this one doesn’t come with the amazing bread.

I decide it is time for dessert and walk to the Hotel Moskva, a local landmark known for its Russian Art Nouveau style. There is a cafe attached here where they serve their distinct Moskva cake, a cake of almonds cherries and pineapples (Moskva šnit). I enjoy the cake with a coffee and get to people watch for a while.

For the evening I want to go check out the neighborhood of Zemun for dinner. Since I know very little about the neighborhood I choose a restaurant as my destination. Google maps is still not working with the public transportation instructions. I suppose I could take a taxi but I am not familiar with how taxis work in town and I’m not in the mood to try to figure it out tonight so I hang out nearby my hotel instead. It’s almost like google maps is no longer receiving a feed from the Belgrade buses. This is quite disappointing for a solo traveler that tends to be fiercely independent and hates asking for help. Maybe tomorrow I’ll have a better go at it.

In the morning I walk down to Kalmegdan to see the old fortress and get views of the city.

I take a break from the heat and pack my things since I leave early tomorrow morning for my long flight home.

I have one last early evening walk.

I stop at a rakia bar try some different flavored rakija, one specifically thyme flavored. I grab a sampler pack to take home with me tomorrow.

Soon I’m off to bed for my early morning flight.

In the morning I am dropped far away from the airport entrance for some reason. I slowly drag myself to the check in and then start the long journey home. There isn’t a fast and easy route to get from this part of Europe back to the USA. My travels were amazing but I am happy to be home. I don’t yet know what is next for me but I am sure I won’t stay still for long.

Novi Sad

Today it is supposed to rain and it never does but what we do have is overcast weather in very comfortable temperatures. It makes the day tour I have today very enjoyable (limited sweating). North of Belgrade is very flat and agricultural. I am heading to the city of Novi Sad and I see sunflowers, grapes, apples,pears and peaches on the way. Also on the way I see small towns with distinct houses with living spaces in back of the house.

Our first stop Monastery Krusedol in Fruska Gora where Serbian school trips go because it is important in history. There are amazing frescos but that some are destroyed, and some rebuilt new frescos over old. The former king and other royals are buried here. It is here I learn that the Serbian Orthodox church uses the Julian calendar.

Next we stop at a wine tasting room in the town of Sremski Karlovci for red Bermet wine tasting. It is like vermouth and a dessert red wine with herbs. It’s only made in the Fruska Gora region (like champagne only made in Champagne valley). Bermet is strong at 16-18% alcohol. I only get to try one wine. I had wanted to buy a bottle but other guests in our group monopolized all the time and I had to leave before I was able to purchase something else to try. It is a distinct wine.

Novi Sad is a Serbian city that used to be part of Austria empire and also sits on the Danube river. It is a culturally diverse laidback city. Most guidebooks will tell you to take at least a day trip here from Belgrade but I would suggest an overnight or two. I definitely would have liked more time in this city.

The famous fortress here, Petrovaradin Fortress, is closed because of bad storm week before. There are lots of trees down blocking the entry roads. The fortress also holds a famous annual EXIT music festival. Apparently as far as fortresses go it is worth a visit – a reason to return.

During our city tour our guide tells us about the writing in both Cyrillic and Latin letters. The Cyrillic is a bit different here than what you’d see in Russia though. I have an urge to learn Cyrillic after his quick lesson.

We get some free time in Novi Sad to walk around and get lunch. I head to lunch first because I had a very small breakfast. I go to a traditional restaurant that is decorated like someone’s home. I had my heart set on the Sarna (cabbage rolls) since I’ve craved it since I was in Bosnia in April but unfortunately it isn’t the season for it, the sauerkraut is fermenting right now for the upcoming season. I order the stuffed peppers instead. Lots of meat and very satisfying.

I wander around town some more and then meet up with my tour group to head back to Belgrade. I really wish I would have had two nights overnight in this charming city. I definitely want to return to Novi Sad someday and do a night or two to really experience it.

After back in town I decide to get something quick for dinner and buy a bottle of Serbian wine since I thought I’d have more of an opportunity to try some today. More sightseeing scheduled for tomorrow.