Arrived in the Republic of Georgia

I consider myself a well-traveled person but the list of places I still want to visit is quite long. When planning my next overseas trip I came across a tour in the country of Georgia. Not knowing much about the country I started reading about the country that was once part of the Soviet Union. This particular tour is an all women group I am part of online; I have been intrigued with joining one of their tours for a few years now. I quickly booked the tour last fall, putting a deposit down on a single room – I don’t mind touring with strangers but sharing a room with someone I don’t know is just not what I am willing to do anymore (with the exception of a dorm thing that might be required on some hikes). The tour is short and concentrates only in a small part of the country so my intent is to tour other cities on my own. I start a list of all the other places I am interested in visiting and gathering logistic information. Originally I set off on planning a road trip for the solo portion of my trip. Meanwhile a friend inquires on joining me on part of my trip. She’ll travel with me before my scheduled tour.

I continue building the itinerary, filling in more details but it seems like the activities I have planned at best will leave us very exhausted. We devise a new plan to limit our stays to two cities and use day trips to visit locations outside the cities. In this plan we no longer need a car rental. Our new plan works out well for the most part with a couple exceptions that I’ll describe later.

There are two flights to get to Georgia and that includes an eight hour layover in Munich. Both of us have been to Munich before but eight hours seems to long to lounge at the airport. We make a plan to travel into Munich for our long break. The airport has other plans for us, everything we estimated takes twice as long. We wait for over an hour to pass through passport control in order to be able to exit the airport. They have us wait in a long line for the machines to complete our first steps and then are told to move to a “faster” line on a different floor but that line ends up being even longer. By the time we get past passport control it only makes sense go with our backup plan – take a bus to the even closer Bräustüberl Weihenstephan in the town of Freising. Weihenstephan is the oldest brewery in the world. Even though I don’t drink beer anymore I order a flight to sample some of them but eventually switch to a good riesling, I do miss the dry German rieslings. We don’t have too much time left to waste so we return to the bus station for our return trip to the airport. We pick up our checked bags and go find our gate for the next leg of our trip, Tiblisi.

We arrive at our hotel around at 5:30 am. Luckily we book the room for the previous evening so the key is waiting for us when we arrive. We shower and take a long nap; neither one of us slept much on our flights. Our alarm is set for ten in the morning. We will still be sleep deprived but we are determined to get on a normal schedule – we have a walking tour scheduled at noon. I wake up but I am having a hard time getting ready for the day. We are very jet lagged.

We meet up at Freedom Square and a local guide starts our walking tour around the city. During introductions a dog joins us and makes his presence known by barking and approaching everyone in the group. He is one of many Tbilisi street dogs, the large group of unhoused dogs that roam the streets. The dogs are homeless but are vaccinated and somehow well cared for, at least most are. He protects us periodically running into the streets and barking at suspicious cars on the road. He stays with us a little while but eventually wanders off and we are joined by other dogs in our tour. It seems to be a common theme in Georgia.

We are told about the history of the city that has historically been on the Silk Road trading route. The land here has been sought after or fought for by Russia (and Soviet Union) but also the Ottoman Empire, Persians, Greeks and other invaders. Even after many different occupations they still maintain their unique language and culture. Their language is formed using a 33 character alphabet with unique sounds only heard here. The language has three different versions and to simplify it they can be referred to as the old version, the religious text version, and the current version. There is no gender in the language but there are words to describe people and some seem to be reversed to what is normal in Latin languages – mama means dad, and dada means mom. They also claim to have some of the oldest bread due to types of wheat that only exist here.

We see the remnants of the old city wall and we walk through old town and learn about the courtyard life. Many of these houses with the distinct courtyards used to be single family homes but now are often divided into different aparments or set up as a hotel for tourism.

We walk through old town and see the clock but it is not operational today due to a power outage. Luckily we are in town for multiple days so we have more opportunities to see the clock perform. It is right next door to a popular puppet theater. Unfortunately it is one of those tickets that have to be booked in advance so we probably won’t see a show during our stay in Tbilisi.

We walk over to the bridge of peace, the bridge that connects old Tblisi with the new.

We wander around a few other areas in old town then end up by the sulphur baths. The city was literally founded because of the sulphur spring. King Vakhtang I Gorgasali hunted in the area with a falcon and the story is the falcon is lost and later found dead in the sulphur spring. The king decided to create a town and name it after springs. If we have time we may come back for a massage or time in the spa rooms. I’ve heard it is a unique spa experience.

We leave the tour group and eat at a khinkali restaurant recommended by our guide. Khinkali is a similar to a soup dumpling, it’s usually filled with beef, beef and pork, mushroom, cheese or potatoes. Some have juice or a soup like liquid inside. We try two different khinkalis, one meat and one mushroom. I would have like to try more types but each order is a minimum of five and khinkali are already very filling. We also order one khachapuri and the waiter warns us it is very small and only enough for one person. Not sure how much he thinks we can eat but is more than enough food for the two of us. This is not my first khachapuri, my first experience is at a restaurant in Brooklyn, New York. There are different variations of this dish but my favorite is when it is shaped like a boat filled with melted cheese. A raw egg is put on top. You are to mix in the egg right away with the hot cheese to give a rich cheesy bread dip.

We are very tired and jet lagged but we decide it is best to keep going so we adjust to the time change. We pick a destination on the other side of the river to resume our sightseeing. We once again cross the peace bridge and spend a moment at Rike park on the way. We view a Ronald Reagan memorial statue, a group making a TikTok video, the now unused futuristic music theater, and some other interesting architecture on the way.

We arrive at Fabrika Tbilisi, a repurposed former clothing factory that is now a hip hotel and hangout area. There are clothing stores and hip cafes around. Seems like a good time to stop for a rest and a pick me up drink. Espresso martinis are a great idea right now. We spend some time enjoying the mild temperatures, people watching and observing the behavior of the street dogs that have seemed to make themselves comfortable in this district. This part of town also has the interesting courtyard and balcony architecture.

We cross the dry bridge and glance at the dry bridge market, vowing to come back to this area on our full free day. We now are aiming for the Atoneli Wine Window, a window that has a man waiting at the lower level for you to ring a bell to request a glass of wine for purchase. The first wine we order is tossed away for being inadequate after the host smells the wine poured and declares it bad. Not sure we would know the difference not being wine experts but we are impressed that he cared to make sure he was serving us quality wine. We drink our newly poured wine on the street outside and return our glasses back to the window.

Our next plan is to take the cable car up to to see Mother of Georgia, the large statute, up close but we navigate to the wrong cable car and end up by a large amusement park at the top called Mtatsminda Park. After watching the sunset from above we tour the lit up amusement park by foot, hoping to find a path to Mother of Georgia from here. We are unsuccessful so we admire the views some more and then take the cable car back down for our return trip.

We walk back towards our hotel which seems to be a long walk from here but we make a shopping detour as well and buy some chacha (Georgian homemade vodka) and homemade wine from a van on the street served out of reused plastic bottles. We are aiming for the authentic experience here.

We have a morning tour booked tomorrow so no late night adventures for us tonight.

Vienna, Austria

Schloss Schonbrunn

I take the train to Vienna from Graz, I didn’t upgrade myself this time but its ok because I get a four seat to myself almost the whole way.

When I arrive to Vienna central station it doesn’t take me too long to figure out which train I need to transfer to. I end up buying a multi day pass even though it’s expensive to simply things. My train drops me off at Prater, a transportation hub right next to a large park that contains an amusement park. I realize later that there is a subway train I could have taken from there to make my walk even shorter or I could have taken a short cut through the amusement park. Instead I follow google with its long walk around the parameter of the park to almost on the other side of the park where my hotel resides. Yes, I am sweaty. And I feel like I am not close to anything except this theme park. Did I make a mistake booking this hotel?

My room is ready when I arrive. I check in and clean up. I have a Mozart concert and dinner scheduled tonight at Schloss Schonbrunn. The package includes a tour of some of the rooms inside. Very impressive. Of course no pictures allowed again. I learn so much about the Hapsburgs during the audio tours of the rooms like Maria Theresa, Elizabeth (or Sissi the beautiful wife of Emperor Fran’s Joseph) and finally the famous Marie Antoinette, the last Queen of France – how did I not know she was a Habsburg? Anyway I enjoy the big room with Rococo frescos, the white gold trim in the grand room.

After the tour we take a long walk to a restaurant down the street for our dinner that is part of the package. Come to find out it is a fixed menu with the choices being beef or vegetarian. I was really looking forward to trying some authentic schnitzel tonight but I guess it will have to wait. The food is lackluster and the service is unbearably slow. I stared at my wine and water on the bar for 15 minutes before I finally got up to tell a waiter (not mine) that those drinks were mine. If I did the package again I would skip the dinner and get fast food somewhere.

Hey- that’s my drink

After dinner we walk back to the orangerie or large room outside the palace where the concert will be held. I chose upgraded seats that included a Prosecco. I sip my Prosecco while I wait for them to let us in. I can’t film inside but it is a great performance. The singers and musicians are delightful and seem to really enjoy their job. I am glad I bought the tickets this evening.

After the show it is late and google is telling me I have to take a train a very far walk away. I decide to ignore it and go to the train I arrived from. The train is running so not sure why google would give me bad directions. (Note: It seems to be the first of many bad directions for my last week or so of travel). Luckily I get back safely and timely using my instincts.

In the morning I have a wine tour scheduled. They don’t pick up at my hotel so I commute down to another part of town and walk through a park on the way that has seen better days.

We are taken out to a wine region called the Wagram region. Our first stop is at the Holzer Winery that is run by a husband and his wife. We meet the wife who introduces us to some wines and tells us her husband’s family winery history while we sip wines on a lovely table by a vineyard. It is a nice day at the winery. As these tours go we are all very friendly after a couple glasses. This region is known for its Gruner Veltliner which a very popular wine for a long while in Austria but has only begun to get the spotlight in the USA in the last maybe ten years. I discovered my love for Gruner in an Austrian restaurant in Brooklyn that had it on tap as did other Brooklyn bars during my life in NYC.

We then have an Austrian dinner where I try some pork schnitzel and lots of other items. I forget to take pictures of the meal but I do take a picture of the delicious rum cake they serve as a dessert. Another winery brings us wines to try while we eat instead of us visiting another tasting at a winery. I purchase one of the bottles of red since I still have three nights left in town to enjoy it.

We head back in town and I am dangerously low on clean clothes so I force myself to do laundry. Hopefully this is the last time I need to do laundry before I go home.

The next morning I wake up early for the highly anticipated Naschmarket. I enjoy the flea market portion of the market but the food vendors are aggressive, especially in the nuts/sweets spices section. Had one almost run after me to try his nuts “only one man”. It seemed to be many vendors selling the same things. There are some unique sellers and restaurants thrown in there but not enough to add it to my recommendation list especially when I’ve been to some pretty cool markets in the past.

Surrounding the market…

I do some sightseeing. I eye one church with some stone sculptures but I decide almost 10 euros is too steep a price to visit, maybe later.

More on the rest of my day later….

End of Prague visit

Upside down horse

I signed up for a wine tour today to try some wines from the Czech Republic. I enjoy trying local wines when I can. The tour ends up being more of a walking tour with a little wine and snacks at the end. It is me and one family of four from the USA on this tour.

Our guide points out some Art Nouveau architecture, the famous upside horse in a mall, and a hidden park (Frantiskanska) – most of it I had already found on my own earlier in the day but its nice to learn the history behind it all. The upside down horse, Statue of King Wenceslas riding an upside-down dead horse by David Černý, is in the same shopping center where I attended a movie the other night. In the same complex is the former Paternoster Lift, an elevator that doesn’t stop or slow down. To ride this elevator one would have to time it just right to jump on. Unfortunately they are all closed to the public now because of safety.

Lift is behind this door
Owl traffic signal. If the owl is upright there is vacancy for horses, no vacancy if turned down.

Prague Free walking tour

In the morning I have another walking tour, this time the free one. It is on this tour I see the rotating Kafka for the third time. He isn’t rotating this time but I think I’ve seen it enough. I do see another Kafka though; another Cerny work.

Martyr statue (Jan Hus)

Rococo facades

Our guide also takes through the Jewish quarter and tells us the terrible history of the Jews in Prague. There are very few Jewish people left in town to this day due to the atrocities during WWII. This town was not spared in the horrors except it is one of few places that wasn’t bombed, rumor is Hitler had a soft spot for Czech Republic or had it in mind as his retirement country. Who knows.

Guide hates this building’s architecture

After the tour I rush down to Náplavka park for their Saturday market. I’ve been to so many markets now that things rarely impress me anymore but it is still a nice market. Some of the booths are on boats on the water. I note the cafes right on the river. It’s just a very hot day so I grab a wrap and a strudel and desperately try to find a shaded spot to eat.

Náplavka Market

I commute up the hill to the Strahov monastery and associated brewery. The original plan is to tour the monastery and then try some of their beers. The heat has zapped all my energy. All I have in me is to try one beer. I later regret cutting my visit short when I realize I miss out on seeing a historical library – I love old libraries. I run back to my hotel to rest until dinner, hoping going back out later will be cooler.

My plan for the evening is to get dinner and then see the town lit up. I choose pizza for the night because I am tired of Czech food. The restaurant has no AC so it is a very uncomfortable meal. I am actually excited to go back outside since the sun is setting. I don’t stay out too late but I do see the city awaken for the evening.

Mortadella pizza, one of my favorites

The next day is a mostly work day. I have to go across town to do laundry but the laundry place is probably the nicest I have seen in a while. I order fancy coffee nearby while I wait. I love this coffee house.

Coffee shop near laundry

Later I try some open face sandwiches and get a cocktail at an Anonymous themed bar. I had tried to book a massage at the Czech beer spa attached to my hotel where I would soak in a beer tub but they cancel on me because they are having equipment malfunction. The experience wasn’t high on my list but I regret a little that I didn’t try the spa earlier.

I leave early tomorrow to visit another city in the Czech Republic.

I like Prague but I’d come back during a shoulder season for less crowds and cooler temps. And while my hotel was generally clean and had AC, the moisture in the room messed with my sinuses so I felt like I was sick for two days-even taking cold medicine. I do worry at times that I will get sick but 9 times out of 10 as soon as I change hotels I am miraculously better. It becomes more and more apparent that I need to start staying in nicer hotels unless I want to feel terrible during my travels.

Next up Český Krumlov.

Piran, truffle hunting, and hair pin turns

Truffle hunting

I’ve checked into my hotel in Piran and settled in. It is a small hotel and I am the only guest for right now. I have a room on the top floor with windows that open up to the outside. It’s early in season but still very warm out so I take advantage of the air conditioning while inside. I do sneak some views from my window into the town center.

After a rest I go out for dinner, a drink, and a walk around town.

Finally found some good mussels and of course fresh fish is always a good idea.

I finish off the evening watching the sunset at a cafe along the water. The water gets rough and some of the tables in the cafe are in the splash zone. I see what looks like cruise ships off in the distance. We are nearby to the town of Koper which has a large port.

In the morning I get to sleep in a bit. I head downstairs and order breakfast at a nearby cafe. This is sleeping in for me but the cafe is barely open when I order. This is not an early morning town.

This afternoon I am heading to the town of Gazon to have a truffle hunting experience.

If you remember my previous post I was afraid I left the rental car unlocked. Obviously people are honest around here because when I get to the rental car in the garage it is unlocked. Would never trust an unlocked car in the USA.

This parking garage is bad for my nerves. Tight ramps that are too close for comfort are stressing me out. And seven floors of this! I hope navigating this gets easier.

I white knuckle it down narrow curvy roads with steep inclines between vineyards; at one point I am on a dirt and rock road. Not sure what is happening with google but these routes suck. I know there are highways I could be taking but google is giving me these goofy routes.

I finally arrive to the meeting place: a small, full parking lot across from a bus station. I park illegally until someone shows up to tell me where I can park instead.

Bus station

I meet my host for the outing, Jerneja, who directs me to a parking lot I can legally park in. From there we walk to a wooded area to meet the truffle hunter and his dog. She tells me that she runs her own travel company and along the way she is greeted by people in town setting up for a party. It is one of those towns where everyone knows each other. She will be stopping by later after she completes my tour.

She also tells me that truffle hunting in Slovenia was illegal until 2012, even though it still occurred. My host tries to explain that the land for hunting is pretty much open for all hunters even though the land is private. I am not sure if I understood that part correctly. I do learn that white truffles are more expensive because they are more rare. We won’t be hunting those today because the season is September through January and we are in May.

I meet a Sheepdog named Lilly and her handler. Sheepdogs are very good at this but also golden retrievers are fine hunters too. Any dog can be technically trained for it. Lilly is 4 years old and trains every day. Her handler basically does this as a hobby.

Truffle hunting has its good and bad days. To make it enjoyable for visitors some truffles are pre staged for the dog to discover I find out later. However it is a good day because the dog finds many more after that.

We go back to Jerneja’s house where we I try some local products: wine, truffle sausage, truffle cheese, white truffle spread, black truffle spread, and homemade elderflower water. She also shows me how to make the popular local dish of istira truffle pasta. I help grate the truffles and she instructs me on pasta cooking and the importance of combining the truffles with fat to make the flavors appear, in this case it is butter. She later adds egg yolk and cheese as well. It is simple but perfect. We share a meal and a nice conservation. I learn a better way to drive back; in fact she discovers that I had asked google to avoid highways that was the reason why I had all these ridiculous routings. It must have happened when I was trying to avoid driving through Italy a day ago.

I head back to town and back to the dreaded parking garage. I find a parking spot but its too tight for me so I give up and drive 3 floors down. I find a better spot but still takes me ten tries to get it to where I am sufficiently away from accidently “door damage”.

For the walk from the garage to town I take a different route – this time down a bunch of stairs. The town of Piran is beautiful at night. I can hear people partying in the plaza so I have to close my window for the night. I am getting up early tomorrow to visit one of the caves of the area.

Part 1: Ljubljana, a new found love

I take a FlixBus from Zagreb, Croatia to Ljubljana, Slovenia. Now that I am in the eurozone border crossings are no sweat. During the couple hour bus ride it rains. It also rains my entire 20 minute walk to the apartment I have rented for my first visit to Ljubljana.

Slovenia is a country in the Balkans north of Croatia and south of Austria. While it was part of the former Yugoslavia, it was the first to claim its independence when the former communist nation dissolved. It was also able to leave Yugoslavia relatively easy unlike its neighbor Croatia. It has a very different feel to it then other former Yugoslavia nations since it was always popular for tourism due to its mountains and other resources.

Wet
Lots of dragons here

It takes me a little while to find my apartment because while the instructions are detailed I still have a hard time locating it. I am not too far from the elevator that takes you up to Ljubljana castle.

I had planned to use this first day to catch up on some things like travel planning but arrived in town very hungry. I check into my room and go out for an early dinner at a restaurant across the street.

The rain stops and reveals a charming city. I decide the weather is so nice I need to walk around. I window shop and notice all the cafés along river that cuts through town.

There is a good amount of interesting artwork scattered across the historic city.

Day 2

I wake up early get some coffee and something to eat. I head to a strukli cafe – My Dumplings of Slovenia. They aren’t fully open yet but they do sell me coffee and cold strukli to heat up at my apartment. I purchase two cold strukli thinking I have a microwave back at my apartment but apparently I do not. Because the other methods of heating are too complicated I eat a small amount of cold strukli (not the best) and save the rest for later when I have the patience to heat them up.

Today I am visiting the Ljubljana castle. I had bought tickets in advance and I plan to take the funicular to the top in lieu of the stairs or path.

The medieval castle itself isn’t too impressive in size. It was used for prisoners during various battles. I enjoy the video of the history of the castle. There is a Michelin restaurant on location that I have reservations for in over a week.

I also really enjoy the puppet museum. In the museum is a collection of weird puppets.

There is also a history museum of sorts but it isn’t too impressive because most of the items are just facsimiles of items in other museums. There is a good section on the history of the city in Slovenia during wars.

I walk down the long path to town and visit the central market.

For lunch I decide to try some Slovenia kranjska klobasa at Figovec. I get a very large smoked sausage served with dipping sauces. I order a side of veggies and there is bread accompanied by a butter mixed with some green herb that I can’t stop eating.

After my heavy meal I take a walk around the Tivoli park.

I stop for ice cream at Vigo.

This afternoon I have a Slovenian wine tasting scheduled. Looking forward to trying some local wines. In the tasting group are people from Spain, Mexico, and the UK. Our very enthusiastic host tells us all about the wines he is serving and the regions they come from. Slovenian wines aren’t made in large quantities so it doesn’t make sense to widely export them; although if you are part of the EU it is slightly easier to purchase them. I guess I need to just enjoy them while I am in the country.


There are two “surprise” wines of the tasting (although one I already know of due to advance city research). Slovenian orange wine is made by leaving the white grape skins in to ferment with the juice, like a red wine is made. Cviček is a rose like wine that is made from a mix of white and red wine. It is lower in alcohol and popular on warm days. Kind of like champagne it can only be named so if it comes from this one particular region in Slovenia. I enjoyed most of the wines I tasted but I probably wouldn’t order the Cvicek again. I do arrange to purchase a bottle of orange wine to take with me on my travels the next few days.

More sightseeing tomorrow