In case you haven’t figured it out these posts are many months old. It has been impossible to keep up daily with my travels. And most of the time the internet is terrible. I am playing catch up with stuff back home or trying to sort through and save travel photos. What I write is from what I remember of my travels and if I am lucky, excerpts from notes I took.
For this post I am back in Istanbul. I planned this return as a “catch all I missed before” plus get some chill time before I head to Egypt. I am heading to Egypt and Jordan for a couple weeks on a fast paced group tour. I purposely planned this downtime prior.
The time was spent pretty well; besides the poor internet I was able to catch up on some things, I bought a couple articles of clothing that would be more Middle East appropriate, and I made one more shipment home (boy is it expensive!).
The following pictures are some of the attractions I stopped at.
My new hotel is off Istiklal Street. It is a busy area but less mentally demanding then staying in the Sulthanhmet area. I mean in the Sultanhmet area I always had to be on guard. In my new location it was more chill: I got way less male attention and shop owners were not aggressive. If I go back to Istanbul I will stay in this area or on the Asian side (as my new Turkish friend recommended).
My hotel is close to the top of the hill in Goreme. A short walk uphill (and a small “admission” charge) is the place to be for sunsets and to watch the balloons fly in the morning.
Today I wake up before sunrise and walk up the hill to catch the balloons. I think I am too early because I have to wait a while for the balloons to rise. I do get a picture of the sun starting to rise through.
Off in the instance I can see some balloons inflating. A short while later they are in the air.
It is beautiful to see.
Some get very close to the observation hill. At times it looks like they can be touched.
A couple days after my not so great green tour I take the Cappadocia Red Tour. I thought I may have overreacted a couple days ago but after taking the red tour with a different vendor I know I am correct in my opinion. The red tour is well organized and the guide is very personable. His name is Sonny and he made our day sunny.
First stop is a view of Uchisar Castle.
Next is Goreme Open Air Museum
A favorite of mine in the Open Air Museum is the Dark Church. It is a separate ticketed option but well worth it in my opinion. The artwork inside is very nice (no photos allowed).
I have no idea why they call it that. <sarcasm>
Avanos pottery demonstration
The pottery is nice but it is way too early to start weighing my backpack down so I forgo any purchases.
Then we stopped at lunch. I don’t remember what I ate but I had to try all the desserts on the buffet.
Before we went back out sightseeing we stopped for a silk demonstration. It is interesting to learn how silk items are made.
Aaaannd the demonstration of the rugs. Some are nice enough to tempt me but they are so expensive. I just can’t purchase one….especially with no job and no permanent place to stay.
After the tough sell we stopped at Devrent Valley where there are a bunch of rocks that look like things.
Finally we finish out the day at Paşabağ
Great day, great tour guide. All the magic of Cappadocia in one day.
A thing one does while in Cappadocia is take a hot air balloon ride. In fact so many people do this that up to 150 balloons float every morning in the Cappadocia sky (weather permitting). For this I did my research and learned it was best to book ahead of time since the rides are so popular. A highly rated one is Butterfly Balloons.
They picked me up very early in the morning and took me to their office to settle up my balance and eat breakfast; well me and about 100 other people. They have a good amount of balloons in their fleet.
All balloons need a permit and they are limited to 150 a day. 150 is still many balloons and you can see all of them in the amazing skyline when they fly.
We are signed up for a sunrise ride but I think you can choose a later ride in the morning. I am in a van with around 19 other people who will be riding in the balloon with me (not counting the operator). There are balloons with smaller capacity and larger capacity and the price and experience will vary with your choice.
I think the price to experience ration was just about right with 20. I would have loved to have less people but it was already pretty expensive so it is ok to be a little uncomfortable to not break the bank too much.
When we get to the lift off site it is still dark and balloons everywhere are being inflated.
Once our balloon is upright we climb in and are given safety instructions.
Soon we are up up and away.
After some time going up and down we start our descent.
After we disembark we have a champagne toast to celebrate. We are presented with a medal and a certificate for participating.
There are three typical tours people take of the Cappadocia: Green, Red (most common), and Blue tour.
Today I take a Green tour – booked with a highly rated vendor on TripAdvisor. While the sights are great, I am very disappointed with the tour operator.
Below is the first stop on the tour that I later discover is Pigeon Valley.
My tour van is over 30 minutes late. My anxiety can’t handle it. I watch others from my hotel and hotels nearby get picked up and I just know I’m forgotten. I have the office of my hotel call them sure I am not forgotten and they are told there’s just traffic causing the delay.
A guy in a small car arrives 15 minutes later and it’s obvious that they forgotten about me when he says I wasn’t on the spreadsheet for today. However when I arrive down to the meeting point they said they didn’t forget about me so I am getting all kinds of stories.
Initially I am in a small van on a small tour which I thought I signed up for and they take us to this location which is a scenic point and the driver tells us here “join in with the group ahead”. We join the group which is listening to a guide who is already talking about what we are supposed to be seeing there (hint I missed about all of it and had to google to discover where I was at later.
He says it’s time to go in 15 minutes or something but I don’t know where to go and I don’t know what’s my bus and I don’t know who is my tour guide.
It is chaos. They direct us to one bus then they decide we can’t take the one bus and we have to take two smaller buses so it ends up being a pretty large group a group of 35 people but split into two smaller buses. I expected and paid for a small group tour so I’m kind of annoyed at this point. I decide to just keep it cool and reserve judgement until the end.
Our tour guide, who is nice, bounces back-and-forth between the two buses to give his tour. It makes one think we are being short changed with some of the history of the area. It is hard to hear anything he is saying while outside at sights because he starts giving his descriptions when half the group is still catching up….so if you are stuck in the back of the 35 people on the tour then you miss a bunch.
What they don’t get wrong are the shopping stops. Of course we are taken shopping at the end to two different locations: one I was able to avoid by going to the bathroom and having the door closed on me and the second one is for sweets which is actually very tempting but I got out without buying anything.
The only good thing about the tour is the transportation to all the sites, other than that it is a waste of time and money.
However I did see some cool sites on the tour…
Selime Cathedral – thought to be the inspiration for Star Wars set.
Church built in 8th or 9th century BC in rocks.
Ihlara Valley hike
Also part of the tour is a mini hike of the Ihlara Valley. The guide drops us at the top of the gorge and we head down along the water. It is a pretty area but I think I would have enjoyed it more if I was left to do it on my own and not part of a huge group.
There is also an old church along the route.
Derinkuyu Underground city
Finally we visited one of the underground cities of the region. Many of these underground caves were created as a place to hide to wait out invaders. It is quite amazing that their entire life would be down there for a long period of time.
Overall I liked the sites, I just wish I had more time and a better tour guide for them. Best to go with a hotel recommendation next time.