This morning I took the train to Mostar, a medieval ottoman city famous for its stone streets and iconic bridge. Mostar is in the Herzegovina region of Bosnia & Herzegovina. It’s confusing because it’s not an actual political border or state but just a region of land. There are actually borders within their country but they are named differently.

It’s about a 25 minute walk to my hotel where I get to walk through a cute town awakening for the day. Little do I know in just a few minutes crowds will thicken as day trippers come in via very large groups. I drop my bags off at the hotel and brave the crowds for a bit while I wait for my room to get ready.

During my wandering I end up at the famous Stari Most (bridge). This unesco bridge was originally built in the 16th century but was destroyed in the war of the 1990’s. It was reconstructed in the early 2000’s. There is a tradition here of jumping off the bridge into the Neretva river below. I forgot about this tradition until I see three guys “getting ready to jump”. They start collecting money for the jump – I later discover they are actually taking bets whether or not someone will jump. After a production they step down and don’t jump. Confused as I am I watch them for a while repeat this same routine multiple times. I am convinced it is a scam and happy I don’t give them money. I find out later from a tour guy that they do eventually jump but these younger guys make more of a production out of it to collect the most money. I still not have seen anyone jump but like I said it is a tradition and actual club you can join to work your way into the big jump.

I order coffee and a local dessert at a cafe and enjoy a view of the river.

It is now time to check in so I return to the hotel and settle a bit to let the crowds die down before I go back out.

I decide to visit a highly rated cafe to eat before I attend a walking tour I have scheduled this afternoon. I am tired of cevapi so I try some grilled chicken instead. I am very happy with my order.

I meet up for the tour. The tour guide is a local who was an adult during the last war. He tells us about town history pre-war and Yugoslav era. Then he tells us how things were during the 1990’s war in this town. The ethnic groups are the same as in Sarajevo but here the residents are majority ethnic Bosnia and Croats with the Serbs forming a minority. I have gotten a completely different perspective than I did in Sarajevo. There was conflict here but the players are different and they change over the course of the war. The whole situation is so complex that I am sure it will confuse me even more if I talk to someone who is familiar with the viewpoint of the other two sides. The only thing to hope is that peace will last here.

Finally I find a place to get a couple drinks after being in a mostly dry town for two nights. I try a flight of beer and a local whisky in a NON-SMOKING area! I love enjoying my evening without a side of smoke. I really take the clear air for granted in the USA since we long since outlawed smoking in most indoor places.

Tomorrow I have a day tour scheduled for the country-side of Herzegovina.