Hvar and the cave tour

Our ferry takes us 3 hours to get to the charming Mediterranean town of Hvar. It is the beginning of season and we are the only guests except one other small group at our B&B. This town is pricey so we close this B&B with great reviews because there is a family member that will frequently be able to take you to and from town. Otherwise it is a 2 km walk uphill, which we have yet to attempt. It is still a little chilly in town and they have just refilled the pool for season; not sure if we will have enough time to swim since our time here is short but the pool and the view is nice. They also have a pretty nice breakfast spread but it is 15 Euros, expensive but seems to be on par with this island. This is not a discount vacation location. We are sad that we are too early to enjoy the lavender fields but we do have an all day cave boat tour scheduled tomorrow.

Our ferry arrives in the afternoon so we stop to eat before we have our driver pick us up. We both enjoy a very rich truffle cheese gnocchi. It is so rich that even I, the human equivalent of a cheese-like Cookie Monster, have to scrape a layer of cheeese off. It is rich and very good. Before we try to settle the bill the waiter offers us glasses of free local wine that we enjoy. We glance around town a bit but can’t do much on account of our bags and call our driver. We note that this is a party town and some late night places don’t even open until 2 am. I am not sure I would have even been able to handle that during my “club” days. When I was younger I could extend the fun to the early morning but only if the early evening had started the activities.

In the morning we eat breakfast and we head down to town early before our boat ride.

We meet with the coordinator of the tour and they give us the disappointing news that the blue cave part of the tour is canceled for the day. It is disappointing but not at all surprising. The conditions have to be right to visit the blue cave and this past month alone it had only been reached 50% of the time. Us and many of the passengers decide to carry on with the boat tour anyway due to there being enough other stops to make it worthwhile (besides I already had an amazing blue cave experience many years ago in Capri in Italy).

They split the passengers into two boats and while I am initially sad we are to go in the small red boat, but I quickly realize I am with the fun group and it makes the tour much more enjoyable. First its about a thirty minute ride out and then we ride along and admire the coast of another island. Due to it being a choppy day, no one is manning and collecting money for the green cave so our adept captain takes our entire boat inside to enjoy. Due to the seas being rough we are unable to swim inside today though.

Lil guy

Our next stop is a small secluded beach only accessed by boat or by a steep trail. It was used in the second Mamma Mia movie. Our guide tells us we can swim out to the beach but only one is brave enough for a swim since the water is cold and it is early. We all resolve to watch the beach from the distance until the solo bartender on the beach waves us down and comes out with a small boat to taxi us over. Luckily we all get a better view from inside the beach. We are sure to purchase some beers from him for his kindness.

Supporting the local private beach business man

We are off to our next stop which are some arches in a cave that look pretty cool. Again if the sea wasn’t rough we could have been swimming in there but it is too dangerous today. We do stop in another little enclave that some of us do brave the cold water and jump in.

We next stop for lunch at another island. Mine is not memorable.

Finally we stop at a Cold War submarine cave at Vis. We get off the boat and walk through a tunnel.

We meet up with some of the groups of girls on the boat ride afterwards at an outdoor cafe. About 5 of us are from the US and the rest are from the UK. We talk about various things. It is nice getting to know people while I am traveling and seeing the world through other’s perspective.

I have a not so exiting dinner and then we have the driver from our hotel come pick us up. We have an afternoon ferry tomorrow so we mull over things to do in the morning. Our driver insists we should visit the castle on the hill and he will drop us off in the morning.

Not exciting dinner

The next morning we pack up our bags and the driver says he will bring them to us down by the bus station later so we’ll have them for our ferry. This eliminates the stress of wondering what to do with our heavy bags while we sightsee.

There is a nice view of town from the fortress. We take the walk down to down afterwards watching people walk uphill from town. We definitely have the easier way of doing things by having our driver drop us at the top. There are some lovely gardens of the way down. We learn that it is designed this way by one influential person.

We get to the bottom, pick up our bags and catch our short ferry to split where we will pick up our rental car and drive to Zadar for a couple days in that region.