End of my travels

The next day I visit the House of flowers and the museum of Yugoslavia.

Google maps, while working fine the past two days, all of a sudden can no longer give me directions that includes public transportation options so I download a bus map to try to figure it out like the “old days”. It’s challenging because the language barrier.

I find my directions to the House of Flowers that includes a walk over a bridge and a walk uphill.

The House of Flowers is the official burial place of the beloved (and sometimes not) Yugoslavian leader Josip Broz Tito. Attached to the mausoleum are wall exhibits of photos of different events of Yugoslavia. It was truly a unique type of socialism in Yugoslavia.

Also nearby is the Museum of Yugoslavia. It is a collection of items related to the time of Yugoslavia. There is supposed to be another museum in the complex but it is closed for renovations. This museum is informative and has information in English but lacks some context for certain events, especially in the last 30 years or so. I guess it’s understandable because there are still things that can’t be discussed because there is not the political will. It’s best to just leave it unknown I guess than stir up anger. It is probably still too soon.

Later I tour the beautiful Serbian Orthodox Church the Church of Saint Sava. The church is magnificently beautiful inside. There is so much gold and bright features.

Lunch today is cevapi. Cevapi is one of my favorite Balkan dishes. The only disappointing thing is that this one doesn’t come with the amazing bread.

I decide it is time for dessert and walk to the Hotel Moskva, a local landmark known for its Russian Art Nouveau style. There is a cafe attached here where they serve their distinct Moskva cake, a cake of almonds cherries and pineapples (Moskva šnit). I enjoy the cake with a coffee and get to people watch for a while.

For the evening I want to go check out the neighborhood of Zemun for dinner. Since I know very little about the neighborhood I choose a restaurant as my destination. Google maps is still not working with the public transportation instructions. I suppose I could take a taxi but I am not familiar with how taxis work in town and I’m not in the mood to try to figure it out tonight so I hang out nearby my hotel instead. It’s almost like google maps is no longer receiving a feed from the Belgrade buses. This is quite disappointing for a solo traveler that tends to be fiercely independent and hates asking for help. Maybe tomorrow I’ll have a better go at it.

In the morning I walk down to Kalmegdan to see the old fortress and get views of the city.

I take a break from the heat and pack my things since I leave early tomorrow morning for my long flight home.

I have one last early evening walk.

I stop at a rakia bar try some different flavored rakija, one specifically thyme flavored. I grab a sampler pack to take home with me tomorrow.

Soon I’m off to bed for my early morning flight.

In the morning I am dropped far away from the airport entrance for some reason. I slowly drag myself to the check in and then start the long journey home. There isn’t a fast and easy route to get from this part of Europe back to the USA. My travels were amazing but I am happy to be home. I don’t yet know what is next for me but I am sure I won’t stay still for long.

Novi Sad

Today it is supposed to rain and it never does but what we do have is overcast weather in very comfortable temperatures. It makes the day tour I have today very enjoyable (limited sweating). North of Belgrade is very flat and agricultural. I am heading to the city of Novi Sad and I see sunflowers, grapes, apples,pears and peaches on the way. Also on the way I see small towns with distinct houses with living spaces in back of the house.

Our first stop Monastery Krusedol in Fruska Gora where Serbian school trips go because it is important in history. There are amazing frescos but that some are destroyed, and some rebuilt new frescos over old. The former king and other royals are buried here. It is here I learn that the Serbian Orthodox church uses the Julian calendar.

Next we stop at a wine tasting room in the town of Sremski Karlovci for red Bermet wine tasting. It is like vermouth and a dessert red wine with herbs. It’s only made in the Fruska Gora region (like champagne only made in Champagne valley). Bermet is strong at 16-18% alcohol. I only get to try one wine. I had wanted to buy a bottle but other guests in our group monopolized all the time and I had to leave before I was able to purchase something else to try. It is a distinct wine.

Novi Sad is a Serbian city that used to be part of Austria empire and also sits on the Danube river. It is a culturally diverse laidback city. Most guidebooks will tell you to take at least a day trip here from Belgrade but I would suggest an overnight or two. I definitely would have liked more time in this city.

The famous fortress here, Petrovaradin Fortress, is closed because of bad storm week before. There are lots of trees down blocking the entry roads. The fortress also holds a famous annual EXIT music festival. Apparently as far as fortresses go it is worth a visit – a reason to return.

During our city tour our guide tells us about the writing in both Cyrillic and Latin letters. The Cyrillic is a bit different here than what you’d see in Russia though. I have an urge to learn Cyrillic after his quick lesson.

We get some free time in Novi Sad to walk around and get lunch. I head to lunch first because I had a very small breakfast. I go to a traditional restaurant that is decorated like someone’s home. I had my heart set on the Sarna (cabbage rolls) since I’ve craved it since I was in Bosnia in April but unfortunately it isn’t the season for it, the sauerkraut is fermenting right now for the upcoming season. I order the stuffed peppers instead. Lots of meat and very satisfying.

I wander around town some more and then meet up with my tour group to head back to Belgrade. I really wish I would have had two nights overnight in this charming city. I definitely want to return to Novi Sad someday and do a night or two to really experience it.

After back in town I decide to get something quick for dinner and buy a bottle of Serbian wine since I thought I’d have more of an opportunity to try some today. More sightseeing scheduled for tomorrow.

Belgrade, Serbia

I have questions I ask and answer whenever I get to new place:

Is water safe to drink from tap?

Where is the closest grocery store

How do you catch and pay for train/bus/etc?

Where to get cash and how much is appropriate?

These are all questions I wished I had compiled in a checklist to be used before I arrived in each new location or country during these last seven months instead of doing the mental gymnastics every time I arrive in a new place. But it is the last country now and I finally have my list.

My flight is early in the morning from Vienna to Belgrade, Serbia. I need to get out of the Euro zone since my visa is close to expiring (90 day Schengen). It seems the next stop nearby is Serbia since I visited many other Balkan countries but not this one yet.

After arriving by plane I go to the city shuttle that is 20 minutes late and the crowd is starting to gather around. I’ve already been waiting about 30 minutes prior so I am proactive and push myself towards the front of the group when the shuttle arrives since I’ve been waiting much longer than most of these people and there is no formal line. The shuttle is a smaller bus and not everybody is getting on. My last stop during my travels and I finally learn to be pushy to my advantage. Most of the time I am overly considerate even when it hurts me. After the shuttle I have to switch to another bus and the heat is starting to kick in; my entire backside is drenched in sweat. I am on a crowded bus standing and trying to balance with my large backpack containing my life for several months and the guy next to me is real annoyed with my backpack. I am too sir. I am too. My hotel is right next to the bus stop and my room is ready. I’ve been so lucky with my room being available as soon as I arrive lately. I relax in the AC for a couple hours before I go back out to sweat again with a walking tour of town.

I meet with the tour and a tour guide takes us many sites in town and explaining their meaning. I learn places to hang out and restaurants to try. He of course tells us to try rakia but I’ve been to the Balkans before and I’m a pro at rakia now. The tour is great but he says nothing about anything related to conflicts in the last fifty years; the commentary stops at World War II. From what I’ve read the most museums around here do not address it either. I am really curious to get their perspective on recent conflicts since I’ve already heard some commentary from other Balkan countries. Maybe another day or so I’ll hit a museum or have a guide that will talk about that period of time. I do learn Serbia goes way back and has a long history. I definitely need to learn more.

After the tour, some of the more outgoing people of the tour arrange a meet up at a beer place around the corner. The six of us go and have a beer. We have two Aussies, two Americans, an Italian and a Colombian. We have a delightful conversation getting to know each other. We take the conversation to dinner afterwards. I try another one of those Balkan meat patty things that seem to be so popular in the region. This particular one is a combination of ground beef, chicken, and cheese. It comes with a side of fries, so yeah, very healthy.

pljeskavica as a type of Serbian hamburger made with ground beef, pork, or lamb. I ordered mine beef and chicken and cheese.

Google takes me through these buildings on my walk back to the hotel. I feel like I’m trespassing but I think others travel the same way.

The next morning I head out to visit the Nikola Tesla museum. Tesla was born in technically Austrian Empire in a region that is now Croatia but was born to Serbian parents. He spent the much of his life outside of Serbia but his inventions were brought to the country after he died, even though he spent most of his professional life outside the country. The museum can only be visited by tour once an hour. The two early tours the morning I visited were already reserved by large groups – although individuals cannot reserve in advance and have to pay in cash. I check in and notice I can’t buy my ticket yet. I am told to come back in about 30 minutes so I go around the block to try the pizza the tour guide yesterday raved about called Bucko. I rarely pass up a good pizza so it is an easy sell for me. The pizza is known for the sauce that is spread on top (called a salad). So basically it is a normal pizza slice with a spread of your choice. I got the beef salad which seemed to be the most popular. It is good but messy and something I am not sure I’d order again. Maybe I’ll go back and try another salad but there are a few more foods in Belgrade I still need to try.

I return back to the Tesla museum for the tour and demonstration of some of his inventions.

I walk around town a bit afterwards.

I head down to the funky Skadarlija district to have dinner at one of the two restaurants I have on my radar in that neighborhood. It’s a very short walk from my hotel so that’s nice since its still hot out. There is a Serbian band playing for dining guests. The music is traditional and sounds like something you’d hear in in many European tourist restaurants.

Karađorđeva šnicla is a Serbian dish consisting of a breaded and rolled veal or pork cutlet stuffed with kajmak. It was named after Karađorđe, a Serbian revolutionary who led the First Serbian Uprising against the Ottoman Empire from 1804-1813.

I had it with chicken since eating lots of beef and pork lately. It is good but very rich. Probably would never order it again but glad I got to try it. Also tried the Krempita again, this time with berries inside. I have had the dessert before and but I missed enjoying it from my Balkan days a couple months ago. I also discover that I am in love with the cheese topped Sopska Salata (Serbian salad). The salad is fresh chopped vegetables and cheese, so good.

After dinner I explore Skadarlija and end up down a funky alley with bars and more restaurants. I hope to come back here another night.

Part 3 : Heading back to Ljubljana

I wake up way earlier than expected disappointed because I actually want to sleep in this morning. I pack up early for my drive back to Ljubljana. I have my last two climbs up that very long uphill path to get the car out of the tight garage. I am pleased to find no dings on my door. People in Slovenia must just be very considerate and careful. I see that there are parking spaces I can park for 30 minutes closer to apartment (but still a steep walk uphill). I try to parallel park along the stone walls but it is proving to be more difficult than I anticipated. I am backing up into a steep and curvy parallel spot. While I try to straighten the car out it seems impossible because of the uneven stone road. I think the car has some automatic no collision feature on because I feel it trying to stop me from doing things. The alarms are also screaming at me if I get too close to a wall. However the screaming is warranted because even though I don’t hit a wall I am seconds from getting one of my back tires caught in this deep moat like thing along the stone wall. Things could have been bad. I will be so glad when I get rid of this car.

I finally get my backpack and return the garage key card and say goodbye to my host. And one more steep walk uphill. You should see my legs. They haven’t looked this good in like ten years. It is amazing what 4 days of intense hills and stairs will get you.

I decide to stop at the Technical Museum of Slovenia (Tehniški muzej Slovenije) on the way back to Ljubljana. The museum is basically building after building of items related to technical advancements.

The collection is large and vast but the museum is very popular for its extensive collection of cars, some that once owned to the beloved leader of Yugoslavia Josep Tito. How many cars does a communist leader need?

There is an old monastery on site and weird rooms of taxidermy animals. They must have put lots of time into this museum in the past; now much of it is outdated.

Finally make it to the car rental place. They dont do an inspection right away but I inspected and I think there is absolutely no damage. I take the bus back to town. Luckily the walk to my hotel is much shorter this time. I am staying in a proper hotel the next two nights. I like that is closer to the bus station since I have a bus scheduled in 2 days.

I still think Ljubljana is charming. I could make time in town to visit a museum or two but I am happy just walking around. I finally eat at a restaurant I had been eyeing last time called Julija. I order the special ravioli they have on the menu and a side of grilled vegetables.

After dinner I walk back towards my hotel contemplating stopping at a cafe when I come across another festival in the area by the church. This time it is a burger and beer festival. I am sad I already ate since the burgers smell good. I stroll along the water and pick up some pistachio ice cream. The pistachio ice cream I get in the Balkans is different. The nuts are put into the ice cream in more of a nut butter format like you would expect in a jar of peanut butter. The pistachio I’ve eaten elsewhere is always an overly processed thing thoroughly blended into the cream.

The next day I only leave the room to eat and run some errands. I need some warm weather shirts because it is starting to get warm everywhere I go and my wardrobe is heavy on the long sleeve shirts.

I finally try Kodila meat market and take a chance by ordering the Bujta repa (fermented turnip stew) and I am rewarded. I normally avoid anything related to sauerkraut but the sour turnip plus pork plus paprika really works for me. The waiter calls it hangover food. I am not hungover but I guess I might be working on one today with my two glasses of wine with lunch. I also try again the Prekmurska gibanica cake. It is like before, it is a semi sweet cake. It’s something in theory I should love because I don’t love sweet things but its not my favorite Slovenian dessert; I very much prefer Bled cake.

For this evening I have a fancy Michelin dinner scheduled. It’s up at Ljubljana castle. I take the funicular up the hill. Even though it is a long wait today for the funicular I am early. I walk along the free parts of the castle while I wait for my reservation. I am eventually seated on the terrace. I am used to dining alone but I always feel awkward when I do the fine dining because normally I read a book while eating to pass the time and it somehow doesn’t feel appropriate at the fancier meals. The food is good but it isn’t the best Michelin food I’ve had. Maybe I’ve had enough of the fancy foam dishes for a while. Give me some local favorite comfort foods instead.

The heavy meal and wine exhausts me for the evening. I head back to the hotel to pack since tomorrow I travel on to the next country, Hungary.

Vintgar Gorge and Radovljica

I thought I heard the man at the front desk of my pension tell me Vintgar Gorge was one and a half hours away but I misunderstood him because google is telling me a ten minute drive. Fortunately I can catch breakfast and still make it in time for the booked visit time. The parking lot they push you towards is a satellite lot which a bus that comes periodically and for this you must get there thirty minutes earlier than your entry time. Since I have one of the earliest appointments I decide to try for the lot closest to the gorge. Luckily it is still fairly empty for the day. Also at one point there is a sign on the road that lets you know how many spaces are open approximately in each lot. I figure with fifty I should be fine and I am.

I have a few minutes to wait for my entry time but it goes by fast. I try to let a tour group get ahead of me to avoid a crowd but there is no avoiding them since they are stopping for many photos. I have better luck passing by the groups. I am traveling at a swift pace through the gorge but I still think I am getting a great experience. At about a mile long the gorge is beautiful and formed by the Radovna river and Bohinj glacier.

The day is beautiful and accompanies the gorge visit perfectly.

There is a beautiful rainbow at the last waterfall of the trail.

The path through the gorge is one way. In order to get back to the parking lot I have to follow a trail back to the entrance that is about a 45 minute walk. It starts through a rural part of town and then ends up on a nature trail. There is an area at the exit where buses pick up groups but since I am by myself I hike back.

I pass by some creepy old houses and tunnels in the path. I also meet a very cute snail along the way.

I make it back to the parking lot. Since it is still early in the day I decide to drive to the nearby town of Radovljica, known for its gingerbread and well preserved medieval architecture. On the way I drive down very narrow roads.

Last hours in Lake Bled

My last hours in Bled are spent relaxing, avoiding the rain, and watching the rowers practice on the lake. I take it easy on this last day, leaving lots of activities left in case I wish to return another time.

I try the popular Bled cake, not unlike the cream cakes I’ve tried across the Balkans. This last time it is decent but believe it or not the best I’ve had so far is the one I bought two days ago at the grocery store. It was the best and only cream cake I’ve eaten with my bare hands (no forks or spoons in sight 😆).

Tomorrow I am driving through Soča Valley on the way to south Slovenia. Looking forward to the mountain views.