More Budapest

Szimpla Kert ruin bar

Originally I was going to visit thermal baths this morning (Budapest is well known for their thermal baths) but I decide to skip since I am not in the mood today. It turns out to be a good decision because even though I read it doesn’t get crowded on weekdays I speak to someone later who actually attended this morning and she says it was too crowded.

Instead I find a stand for coffee with non-dairy milk (a luxury while traveling) and stop at that shakshouka restaurant.

I first visit the House of Terror Museum – a museum dedicated to the fascist and communist regimes. I always knew Hungary was associated with Eastern Europe but I didn’t fully understand what life was like under the nazis and later Soviet Union. The audio tour and exhibits thoroughly explained the history. It’s a very interactive museum. I recommend it. In the basement is a replica of prison cells used to torture prisoners.

Its still early in the day but late enough that I can visit my first ruin bar in town. Budapest is famous for its ruin bars or creative bars built in old run down buildings. I order a large apperol spritz in the most famous ruin bar Szimpla Kert. I am solo and admit it would be more fun if I had a companion with me but I still think it is pretty cool inside. I must drag some friends here another time.

For lunch I try the Langos Burger and another Apperol Spritz at a nearby food cart market.

I rest up for a couple hours because I have a prosecco cruise booked for this evening on the Danube. I try to time the cruise so I can see the lights come on in the city for the evening and sunset view. It is busy so I end up sharing my table with a couple from Australia that I learn met on their travels. The cruise has very generous refills of prosecco. I try to drink water to offset but I have a feeling I will be hurting tomorrow.

The cruise is beautiful and fun but with that fun comes big regrets. I lose the entire next day due to Prosecco. I spend most of the day resting and binge watching tv shows while I recover. I am a fan of having days “off” of traveling here and there but I really dislike losing days to hangovers. Just a warning for another tempted by a sunset Prosecco cruise – pace yourself.

After my recovery day I decide to have a casual day of sightseeing and visit the Central Market Hall to browse around. I never can resist a large market.

I decide to eat at the market and instead of ordering something sensible I order plate of fried meats and it is way too much food. I can only eat a little of it. It’s not really my favorite so far. I do like the strudels I pick up for later.

I walk back to the area closer to my apartment.

Later in the day I attend a wine tasting where I try some Hungarian wines, some of them sweet. I also try cheeses and meats. I learn about mangalica – a fat fluffy Hungarian pig.

One lady from the tasting is in town for business from the USA. I used to live in same city she is from so we talked about the city and other things. We continue the conversation to another ruin bar I’ve been wanting to check out called Csendes Létterem. We enjoy nice conversation and more drinks in a funky environment.

My trip to Budapest is basically over at this point since I have to go back and pack. It is a nice visit but I am mad at myself for losing a day due to Prosecco. I feel like I am getting too old to keep making those bad decisions. As a result I have added this city to the list of places to visit again. I think I wouldn’t mind just chilling in the area for a week or two sometime when I am not rushed. You have surprised me Budapest.

The next morning I find the airport bus after a ten minute walk. The airport is so efficient I think I didn’t need to get here two hours early but I guess always better safe than sorry. While at the airport I do some browsing at the Hungary airport duty free store. I see cigarette cartons with very graphic pictures on box: Lung cancer pics, mouth cancer pics and pictures babies harmed by smoking. They must have pretty strict regulations here.

Not one person has asked to see my id on my flights today. The EU has a very efficient and electronic system of doing border checks. I am heading to Norway now. See ya Hungary.

Budapest

Fisherman’s Bastion

I wake up, check out of my hotel in Ljubljana and head down to the bus station. I have an all day bus ride today and we are heading to Budapest, Hungary. We leave on time but while still in Slovenia we are stopped to check ids. It gives me a chance to run to the bathroom.

There are no border checks Slovenia to Hungary. I can’t believe I don’t have to go to the bathroom again. Either I am getting real good at monitoring my liquid intake or I’m dehydrated. At least I am not having to pee every 45 minutes!

I arrive in Budapest at what I believe is the most convienent bus station of the two stops. Google tells me to take the 3 line on the metro. I haven’t had a chance to find a bank yet; I have a new currency to deal with here. Luckily I can buy metro tickets with credit cards. I buy a 72 hour transportation ticket because I will at least be here that many days – It’s a good thing I do. I get stopped almost immediately by someone who works in fare enforcement. There are signs warning you everywhere of this but it is hard to believe until you get stopped. I meet a couple later who actually had to pay the fine because they couldn’t figure out the ticketing system.

From my stop it is about a twelve minute walk according to google but with my bags and me being me it takes about twice that, plus I stop to admire things around me. It becomes clear that my apartment is in the “happening” part of town, the Jewish Quarter in Pest. Hopefully I’ll have some stamina to stay out late a night or two.

After settling in my cute and convenient apartment I head out to get a proper meal. I’ve only had snacks all day. I go back and forth about what I want but end up at this nearby restaurant where I order something local, Chicken Paprikash. It is satisfying but I can’t say its the best dish I have ever had. I’ll have to try my luck again later with Hungarian dishes.

Chicken Paprikash

Budapest wasn’t originally on my itinerary this year because I didn’t have it high on my priority list. I noticed I had a extra slither of time to dedicate somewhere between Slovenia and meeting my friends in Norway. I feel like I already had good amount of time in Slovenia and Norway is too expensive to add extra days this year so Budapest seemed like the only logical choice.

Budapest is the capitol of Hungary and formed by the two former cities Buda and Pest (and also Óbuda). Buda and Pest are still distinct parts of town today separated by the Danube river. They used to be part of the Ottoman then Habsburg empire, a nazi occupied territory, a communist dictatorship and now a member of the European Union.

The next morning I am up way earlier than I should be. Today is my Buda day. I plan to spend the entire day exploring Buda on the hill. Buda is the name of the part of the city of Budapest on the west side of the Danube. It contains government buildings, the Buda castle, wealthy residents and some good museums. I start my day at a breakfast where I order some avocado toast, a staple from back home.

I start walking toward the funicular to get to the upper part of Buda. The famous chain bridge to cross the Danube is closed for repairs for pedestrians so I cross another bridge. I am enjoying the architecture on the way.

I take the funicular up and enjoy the views from top.

Not doing much research besides figuring out what time things open, I have no idea where to start today. I end up at the Buda Castle History Museum. I have booked a tour at 12:15 to see the newly restored St Stephens room so I wander the museum as I wait. One thing I notice is the ruins of the old town underneath the buildings. This and the fact that there are so many buildings destroyed from wars outlies an long history, one that the government wants to preserve. In fact today I discover all the nearby construction is because the government has a project to recreate each destroyed building as they were originally in place using the detailed records that fortunately still exist. It is a long and expensive project that I am not sure I have seen replicated anywhere in my travels.

The beautifully restored St Stephens room is a great choice to tour today.

After the museum I walk over to the labyrinth and I watch someone lock the doors of the attraction. Apparently it is closing for lunch. I’ll go somewhere else and come back.

I try to visit the Hospital in the Rock Bunker but it is thirty minute wait for the next tour. It is expensive, no photos are allowed and reviews say you are rushed through the whole thing by the tour guide. I decide to skip it or come back later if I change my mind. It’s late afternoon and I haven’t eaten lunch so I decide to try one of Jamie Olivers chain restaurants for lunch. Foods ok and what I would expect from a chain. It gives me the energy to walk over and look at the Matthias church and nearby Fisherman’s Bastion.

I visit the Fisherman’s Bastion (fortress) and nearby cathedral (Matthias Church), although I did not pay to enter either.

My lunch was light so I visit a stand selling langos, a food I want to try. Langos is basically fried bread with your choice of sweet or savory toppings – like a pizza. I order a standard one with popular ingredients of sour cream and cheese. I don’t have high expectations for this food item but I am pleasantly surprised; It is very good. While I eat I watch all the extra tourists that are in town today because the Europa final is tonight. Throughout the city I’ve been hearing Italian and Spanish.

You think I am done with eating but I had my eye on this cake earlier – Chestnut Chocolate Cake. It is unique and surprising good.

Now that I have food and dessert out of the way I head back to the labyrinth. Again I didn’t know what to expect but I get a very bizarre and creepy experience. The visit starts with statues of mostly famous people then leads into a wax museum type experience with wax figures acting out an opera….with the opera music playing in the background. You then have the choice to continue on the well lit path or follow the pitch black path. I am up for adventure so I went the dark way. When I say it is dark, I mean it is dark. There is an occasional green light on the floor but I spend the majority of my time with my hands against a stone wall following it around listening to water dropping. Occasionally there will be music playing and a hidden creepy wax museum figure behind some bars. There is a little rope part of the way you can grab to take you along so I started using that eventually. I got creeped out and returned to the light. Only after looking at the tunnel map I realized it isn’t a true labrynth so I really wouldn’t have gotten lost. In fact a tour guide tells me later that these tunnels actually connect many of the residential buildings in the city through basement openings. They utilized an existing cave system to create a sort of alternative entrance and exit situation for the city. Kind of fascinating to think about it.

Eventually I get to the whole vampire lore part of the tunnel. There is a story that Dracula (the man or vampire) was captured and kept here at one time but no official record confirms that – it is just a fun story.

I have a Buda Castle vampire tour scheduled this evening and still have time to kill so I do more walking and photo taking. I forget to bring my phone charger aI head to a bar to have them charge my phone and get a drink (It’s a necessity!). For a short while I am living like I did before cells phones were everywhere. I just have to people watch and enjoy my own company.

I grab my slightly charged phone and head back down the hill to meet my tour guide. We know right away it is him because of his long black coat and top hat. He gathers us then slowly takes us back up the hill telling us story after story of mostly vampires or vampire adjacent creatures in Hungary’s history. He even includes his version of the “true story” of Vlad the Impaler (Dracula). He is a good story teller and I enjoy seeing Buda all lit up for the evening.

The tour ends and I just miss the bus that would have made my journey back much quicker so I make the silly decision to walk back the way I came this morning (40 or more minutes). It is 10:30 PM and I am exhausted but I do it anyway, enjoying the city in lights. I am tired but I am very surprised I still have this much stamina when most days I do not. I will definitely pay for this tomorrow in body aches.

I finally get to my district and as I suspect it is lively but not as lively as I thought it would be. Apparently that Europa match is still on and they have just started overtime and penalty kicks. I watch for a bit while walking down the really long party street that is two blocks from my place. I really need to go to bed so I head back.

What a long day. I have a feeling I am going to get a late start tomorrow !