Today I am exploring the Herzegovina region through an organized tour. I could visit these places on my own but not without a car. I have met others during my time here that have rented a car but I do not want to deal with the additional hassle of renting a car this early in my travels. Plus with a tour guide you get commentary and insight to what life is like as a local.
Before I go into the tour, lets take a look at this amazing breakfast spread from my hotel. I don’t typically stay in places that include breakfast because I travel on the cheap but I got lucky this time.
Herzegovina is a region of Bosnia and Herzegovina and not a state as many people think. There are two regions of the county, Bosnia and Herzgovina, thus giving name to the country. Within BiH (abbreviated) there are states and border lines that do divide the country a bit but I am not going to talk about that because I’ll probably explain it wrong because even after being here a week it is a little confusing to me.
On our first stop we are taken up a hill and shown a beautiful view of the city of Mostar, the city I am currently staying in.
Soon we are at Blagaj Tekke, a village that has a charming Dervish monastery by a cliff with a flow of water coming out from a cave. We are short on time for the stop so I skip touring the monastery. This is when having my own transportation would be useful.
The water level is high this time of year. Part of the cafe is under water today.
It is here that I run into two girls I met on a tour yesterday. They are from the UK and very nice. I sit with them briefly and enjoy coffee with the view. Did I also mention that there are two girls from Singapore on my tour today that I actually met on a tour in Sarajevo. It seems like it is a small world in the Balkans travel circuit. Both pairs are heading to Croatia as am I, I won’t be surprised if I see them again.
We visit where the rivers meet. This time of year the water levels are very high. Our guide shows us pictures how narrow the river gets.
We stop at the village Počitelj, another place with much destruction during the war. Fortunately money went to the city to repair some of the damage. Unfortunately many don’t want to return to the village because of the terrible memories, one of which being the concentration camps just over the hill.
I climb to the fortress at the top to see the views below.
Our last stop is Kravice waterfall. We are told we are lucky since it is at its best right now. They are privately owned so there is no restriction on development. It seems like soon the place will be overly commericalized. For now during off season it is nice. A companion on the tour talks me into taking a boat ride. I get up close and feel the mist from the waterfall.
Two of the brave girls I am with have brought their swims suits. They say it is real cold im the water. It is really early I’m the season to aim but it gets very crowded when it is warm.
We make one final stop at a place that has a war memorial. Our guide talks about a local hero. We also see an example of a white box that was used to transfer food and supplies across the river at night so people on the other side would not starve to death.
I get back in town and visit the local wine shop that was closed yesterday. I participate in their wine and cheese tasting experience. One of the co-owners is lovely and she tells me some great stories. I love how open and friendly locals are.
After I head to the tourist restaurant Sadravan. The staff dress in traditional attire and has all the makings of a tourist trap but the food is actually pretty good. I order trout and later a dessert.
I finish off the night at the pub nearby where I get a very large amount of wine for about 2 euros. I can barely finish it and stumble back to my hotel which is very close.
I have a couple hours of free time in the morning before a car is to pick me up. The hired car is a last minute decision. My original travel plans to get to kotor Montenegro had to be reworked because the bus I thought I could take was not running or it was too early in the season to take that route. The only alternative is booking a bus ticket to Dubrovnik and then another in Kotor. Basically adding 4 plus additional hours to my travel. I booked those tickets but was not excited about the journey, especially having my passport stamped in a Schengen country 3 days early (research schengen visas to understand why that would be annoying for a multi-month tour of Europe). When the lady at the front desk at the hotel suggested the private driver option (costing 150 euros) I took it. It isn’t cheap but it is worth every penny to arrive in comfort, directly to the country i am heading to at 3.2 hours versus up to 9 hours.
Before I leave town I walk around. I finally see a bridge jumper….it’s not a scam.
Eventually Cafe de Alma opens and I get a proper lesson in how to drink Bosnian coffee.
Finally I get one last wine and enjoy the view. I really enjoy my time in Mostar. I will return some day.