Hindu Temples and beginings of buddhism in Sarnath

A trip to Varanasi would not be complete without stopping in Sarnath. Sarnath is where the Buddha first taught the Buddhist dharma.

Buddha taught from a stupa (large round shrines).

Also visiting were numerous colorful school kids (see background). They were excited to practice their English with us and energetically said hello to us as we walked by them.

Dhamekh Stupa

Offerings left outside the shrine.

Lots of people make the pilgrimage here.

Mulagandha Kuti Vihar temple

Walls tell the story of the start of Buddhism.

After our visit to Sarnath, we stopped to see some artisans and how some textiles are made.

This machine has cards that store the “program” for certain designs.

There is always an opportunity to purchase in India.

Along the way to our next stop we saw these children along the ride.

Queen’s College Benares (Now a Sanskrit University).

We stopped next at the old Queen’s College. Neat astronomy measuring equipment is located in the back of the building.

Bharat Mata Temple 

Finally we stopped at the Bharat Mata Temple. In the temple lies a large map of what was once all India territory.

The map represents what was once a very large and vast country but now has shrunken a bit over the years. It was very interesting to see.
I wish I would have had more time in Varanasi. I feel like more time was needed to soak in all the Hindu and Buddhist spiritual energy contained there.
Perhaps some day I will return again.

Varanasi Boat ride

After watching the amazing Aarti ceremony the night before, we woke up early the next day to take a boat ride down the Ganges.

This lady was selling neem sticks early in the morning. Chewing on neem is supposed to be good as a teeth cleaner.

Before we started our boat ride we enjoyed chai latte out of a clay pot. I was testing my digestive system and it did me well. This street purchase did not get me sick!

At dawn we started our boat ride.

As did many others.

We floated down the Ganges and got to see many different ghats (stairways along the water).

Another tourist boat was nearby and one brave guy decided to take a dip. Many devout Hindus consider this water to be holy and a dip in the river is extra special to them.

Laundry is also done by hand daily in the river. You will see this up and down the river.

Many colorful boats hang out around the ghats.

This lady was making an offering along the river.

We decided to give our own offering.

Cremations are held at either end of the Ganges. One end I could not photograph because out of respect but this one was currently not in use. You will notice the wood all around waiting for the next ceremony.

We got off the boat and I was given a blessing.

Nice mini temple in the water.

Cremation supplies

We took a walk around after our boat ride and visited some temples (no photos inside) but there were many of these temples around the alleyways.

Our Varanasi tour guide. He was very enthusiastic about his city.

 This cow would not let us pass and had a stinky butt.

After our early morning tour we went back to nap for an afternoon in Sarnath.

Varanasi: Aarti

We traveled to Varanasi by small airline. We arrived mid-day and were given some time to rest at the hotel before attending an Hindu Aarti ceremony by the Ganges.
The ceremony was at one of the ghats, or stairs, along the Ganges. A car could only take us so far so we had to walk the rest of the way to the river. We saw many bike commuters and rickshaws

And some cows in an argument.

Some half constructed buildings.

An american who now lives there makes an offering to a temple.

Crowds start gathering for the best seats.

We had the choice to sit in the middle of the action but instead we chose an aerial view and watched from a balcony.

As the sun set, the ceremony began.

People watching from boats

Making an offering

Short video of the ceremony.

India: New Delhi & Noida Part 2

Since we didn’t get to see much of New Delhi on our previous day trip (See India: New Delhi & Noida Part 1) we arranged with our hotel to have a car for the day to take us from sight from sight. It was a rip off at $80 but we felt like we didn’t have much choice since our hotel was far from the city center and there is a lack of public transportation. Note if you do stay in the city center I have learned you can be taken around to all the tourist sites for as little as $20 a day.
We started early and the fog was still thick. Our first stop was to Humayun’s tomb.

Humayun’s tomb

We visited the tomb of the Mughal ruler Humayun. It was impressive but I was interested more in the smaller, older tomb nearby: The tomb of Isa Khan Niyazi (see picture above). The tomb had an erie feeling to it and kept luring me in.
Mosque next to the small tomb

Beautiful pathway around the smaller tomb.

Interesting looking structure we could see from walking the walls of the smaller tomb complex.

Stairs that just appear out of nowhere. Be careful!

And then we move on to the tomb.

It was here that we first encountered the “friendliness” of locals. An older man offered up many stories and took us around the tomb. We hadn’t asked for his help and really couldn’t understand much of what he said but he had his hand out for a tip. It is something you need to get used to in India. Either politely say no to people when they offer their help or expect to tip. You will be tipping all the time in India. I think there was only a couple times I was able to go to the bathroom without tipping.

After the tomb we had a quick stop at the Lotus temple. The Baha’i House of Worship of the Baha’is of India is more commonly known as the Lotus temple.

Lotus Temple

It is a place of peace and you can tell when you enter. Like many other temples, no shoes are allowed.

Next stop on the tour was Qutab Minar.

Qutab Minar

This tall stone tower was built in 1193 by Qutab-ud-din Aibak and sits next to the first mosque to be built in India.

Carvings and verses from the Qur’an.

Wall scriptures in different lanuages.

Alai Minar

Another tower was built but never finished.

Part of the Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque

Our driver dropped us off for lunch at Pindi. One other thing about India is that typically your driver will just drop you off at a lunch place of his choosing. Mostly because you don’t really know where you are and if you did have place in mind, you wouldn’t know how to get there. Plus the “yelp” of India isn’t really that helpful to tourists. Fortunately this place was good. I ordered butter chicken and wow was it filling.

After lunch we got caught up in the first of the shopping emporium time suck. Partially my fault because I told hill I wanted to go back to the Dilli Haat to shop a bit since it was closed on my last visit. He takes us to the Dilli Hut (even though he knows what I meant), I get upset but he insists it is good quality stuff. We go in and product after product is put in front of us. I am anxious and annoyed and cannot shop when people are talking to me non-stop. It was here that I first discovered I am unable to shop in India. I am a slow shopper who needs time to digest my choices. I don’t even think I got anything at this place; I can’t remember for sure. This scenario repeats itself over and over again our entire India trip.

After losing 2 hours with shopping nonsense we arrive at the Jama Masjid mosque to find it has just closed for afternoon prayer and would no longer be open to non-Muslims for the day. Ok, kind of annoyed we lost that time shopping.

This is what we could see of the mosque.

Outside the mosque.

Last stop in New Delhi is the Red Fort. But guess what – it is closed as well. Because of the shopping time suck, we missed out on two attractions. The lesson here kids is to just say no to shopping.

We finished the day with a stop at the the Askshardhm Temple Complex near our hotel. Majestic at a distance, this new temple is like a Hindu Disney World. There is boat ride (which I think was closed while we were there) and a bunch of vedic exhibits. They spent a lot of money on this complex. I think there is a musical fountain (which was also closed while we there there). You know what wasn’t closed? The gift shop. Lots of interesting stuff in the shop. Lots of Ayurvedic vitamins and body products can be purchased there.
This is the best picture I could get of it. It was foggy the whole time and they don’t let any cameras or phones in the complex.

That concludes our last day in Delhi. The next day we were off to start our religious experience on the Ganges.

India: New Delhi & Noida Part 1

Earlier this year I was sent to Noida, India for a work trip. Noida (New Okhla Industrial Development Authority) is a small city just outside of New Delhi. This city is a home to numerous outsourcing IT firms.
I was there because my company is using resources of a local company there to help us with some of our IT support. I invited my husband to come along with me. He worked remotely in the hotel while I went to the office. After my work assignment was complete, we planned a tour of parts of northern India.
We only scheduled a day or so for seeing New Delhi. One day was not enough to see the main attractions; partly much of our time got sucked up in shopping emporiums (I will talk more about that later). I recommend spending 2-3 days max in the city. New Delhi is crowded and highly polluted. The city just topped the list in the poorest air quality. Your lungs will thank you if you only spend a couple days here.

One of the first local trips we took was with a bus load of co-workers of mine to the Dilli Haat. The Dilli Haat is a market that features rotating craftsman. You can go here to get some deals on Indian made goods. But you have to haggle – they will always start really high so you need to start low. I am terrible at haggling so probably got ripped off most of the trip. Unfortunately the market was closed for a holiday when we first chose to visit. But that didn’t stop us from viewing the few vendors set up outside the market. Some in our group chose to get Henna done while we were there.

I did make it back to Dilli Haat later to buy a couple of pashmina shawls.

Many things were closed for Republic Day while we were out on our first tour. Republic day celebrates the day India adopted their constitution after British rule was ended there. Everyone takes to the streets. There are parades and celebrations.

Celebration at the India gate

Traffic was quite congested that day. While it didn’t make a great day for sightseeing, it was great for people watching. People in India are quite skilled at the art of carpooling.

Some more pictures of things observed around town.

During the week we walked over to this mall. It was a large mall with many stores you would find in the US and some others specific to India. My co-worker called the walk there “running the gauntlet” because once locals noticed westerners coming, they would send their kids over to harass you for money until you made it to the mall.
More Noida – you will notice things don’t look quite finished around here.

More to come in India: New Delhi & Noida Part 2