Mykonos

In May 2009 we celebrated our honeymoon in beautiful Greece. Our trip started in the beautiful white washed island of Mykonos. Mykonos (also called Hora) is known for not only its white buildings but also for its windmills and party like atmosphere. May is the off season so the island wasn’t packed with clubbers and it was a bit too cold to hang out at the beach. Despite the cold weather it was still a fun and relaxing vacation.

Our hotel San Marco was beautiful and relaxing. While we dined at the hotel they were filming there for a tv show. We never did look for that show. My only complaint is that the hotel was not in walking distance to the center of Mykonos and we relied on a hotel shuttle that had limited pickups, probably due to it being off season.

We received a bottle of wine upon arrival. I spent one evening with the wine while reading and watching the sunset.

Famous Windmills

Octopuses hanging to dry. We frequently saw fishermen tenderizing tentacles against rocks.

Our first Greece sunset…

One night after seeing squid on the menu we decided to order squid. I normally like squid but this squid was huge and a bit hard to eat. We ended up sharing this squid with the stray cats that were staring at us all night.

Little Venice

Church of Panagia Paraportiani

Agios Nikolakis

Cinque Terre

One of my all time favorite travel locations is in peril. Cinque Terre experienced flash floods a couple of days ago. I hope that Cinque Terre is able to recover from this disaster.
These videos are of two of the towns:
Monterosso
Vernazza
In honor of these 5 lovely towns, I am re-posting my travel journal entries from July 2004 and adding photos taken during that trip.

Cinque Terre
July 08, 2004, 09:30
We just arrived at our lodging in the Cinque Terre. Sorry I haven’t been able to update the journal in a while, we have been in the Amalfi coast where internet and modern technologies are in second place to relaxing and swimming in the ocean. I will write as much as I can for now and I will update my journal for Amalfi Coast later.
We decided to skip Florence and Tuscany for this trip due to lack of time- We did not want to rush through it in 1 1/2 days. I will have to come back and enjoy all of Tuscany on another trip.
We took an overnight train from Salerno to La Spezia. La Spezia has trains that connect you to all of the Cinque Terre villages. We have decided to stay in Riomaggoire, the first and I believe the largest village. We will be doing light walks only today. After the lack of sleep, I don’t think we will have the energy to do the heavier walks.
I must go, there is a nice gentleman waiting to use the only computer here. I promise that I will update more later.

I love Cinque Terre
July 09, 2004, 11:46
Yesterday we arrived here on the morning train. We first took the train from Salerno to La Spezia and then inadvertently got off at the wrong stop because we did not realize that we had reached our stop (We were stuck in a tunnel and could not see the signs). We got off at the next town and stopped at the hostel there and waited until 7 am when it opened. Realizing that the hostel had a lock out time of 1-5 everyday and it looked like it was to rain yesterday, we decided to check out the lodging in the original town that we were supposed to stop at.
We decided to take the path called Via dell’ Amore (path of love). The path was a 15 minute walk. Ah, they had beds for us at Mar Mar. Not only did we have beds, we got a private room! We are staying in a dorm with eight other awesome people. We have a huge functional kitchen that we later use. We soon get along famously with others in the dorm. We a meet a couple of others who are not staying at our dorm but have been hanging around. After our nap, we go to the beach in Monterossa with our new friend Marissa. We sit on the beach and relax and I go for a swim. Floating in the ocean with my eyes closed and seeing where the waves take me is so relaxing. Unfortunately, it started raining so we decide to walk back to the train.
When we get back, it is time to prepare for dinner. Since most shops close at 7 here, the entire group goes shopping to pick up what we need for the meal. One gets wine, another pesto, another pasta, etc. We pop open the wine and begin cooking what I can only describe as an awesome meal. We set up the table on our patio outside which overlooks views of the town and the ocean. Soon the rain begins again. Thinking quickly, we grab all of our towels and lay them over the clothesline above to protect the food from the rain. It made the meal much more charming. After cleaning up from dinner, we hear music in the courtyard and decide to check it out. We arrive and find a charming puppet show. An authentic Italian puppet show. We do not understand a word that the puppets are saying but the tone of voice of the characters and the crazy movements of the characters make us laugh. We then decide it is gelato time. I have not talked about gelato like Nikki has (see her journal entry) but I believe that gelato is the one of the most awesome things in the world. It has become a staple of our diet. We finish the night at a pub that plays American popular music. As the night progresses, our entire group becomes dancing fools (except poor Nikki, I had to walk her home early). Even the owner “Franka”, a woman who I believe is in her fifties, comes out to dance and boogie with us. Unfortunately, all good things have to come to an end. The bar closes and we stumble down to the water. It is so refreshing to be by the water at night with the cool breeze. Some guy plays the bongos behind me as Marissa dances. I decide that I am too tired to hold a conversation anymore so I stumble back to my room.
I don’t want to leave this place.
Well it is time to go do the monster 5 hour walk.

Another late start, and back in Rome
July 10, 2004, 18:10
Yesterday, after Thursday nights events, we were on to a late start for our big hike. We decide to start at Monterossa which seems to be the popular thing to do. I think I have never walked up so many steps in my life(Not even in the Amalfi Coast). When we arrive at the top, it is totally worth it. From the top, you can see the most picturesque of villages and it continues that way throughout our walk. Along the way we also witness lemon farms, olive farms, and of course grape vineyards. All I can say is that all of the beautiful pictures that I have seen of Italy, have been proved to be true.
Most of you know that I have been preparing for this trip by walking long distances, well it wasn’t enough. I can walk far distances now but those darn steps (or what I call non-steps – random rocks thrown on the ground to resemble steps) kicked my butt. I survived though, and I am really happy that I did the walk. It was the most spectacular view that I have ever seen – well almost as good as the Amalfi coast. I guess they are about tied in my opinion.
We take only the first and second trails, Monterossa to Vernazza, and Vernazza to Corgnelia. Those two were the best, hardest, and longest trails and we didn’t have time to do the rest.
While stopping for Gelati in Vernazza (I swear they put drugs in the stuff – can’t resist) we stop to watch these insane boys jump into the water off of a ledge that is about 8 feet higher than the water only to be thrown back onto the ledge when a huge wave comes in. It was crazy. After talking to others we discover that they have been doing it since they were real young and it is a daily event for them – for hours a day. It kept us entertained for quite a while. Later on, we saw the boys by the pharmacy patching up their bleeding legs and arms. Nikki and I have pictures of this event if you want to see it.
Returning back to Riomaggoire, we meet up with our roommates/new friends for dinner. New roommates join us later for wine on the terrace. Good conversation. We again return to our bar for a drink. Franka greets us with hugs and kisses. I am tired after one beer and have to leave on early train next morning, I go to bed. While getting ready for bed, hear group of drunken Americans/English speaking nationals singing loudly by the water. I get to sleep despite this.
Today, I am back in Rome after a four hour train ride this morning. I visited the Colosseum and wandered around town before I happened upon this internet cafe. I have already had gelati twice today. I am going to need gelati detox when I get home. I might try to get an authentic Italian meal once more and visit the pub around the corner from my hotel. Maybe I can meet some new people before I leave. Anyway, don’t want to waste any more time indoors, must get ready to see Rome at night.
Be home soon!

Note: Some of the entries were edited for grammar and readability.

Isle of Capri

In the morning we set off for the Isle of Capri (pronounced with the emphasis on the first syllable). I observe beautiful views from the ferry that we take to arrive there. Upon arriving in Capri, we purchase one of the three tickets we need to get to the Blue Grotto. Another ferry takes us around the perimeter of the island. Row boat picks up 4 passengers each from our ferry. The row boat takes us up to another boat where we pay for our admission ticket and row boat charge for the grotto. While waiting to go in, the boat men are yelling at each other in Italian, perhaps making jibes at each other. A small passage is the entry point into the grotto. We all need to duck our heads to go through it. Once inside, the color was magnificent. Apparently the sunlight bounces off rocks outside the cave and is reflected back in to produce the vivid blue color. Our boatman asks us if we would like to go for a swim. We give an emphatic yes! Swimming in the grotto was so refreshing. Other row boats glided around us while we swan around. Unfortunately, time was limited and we had to the return to the boat.

Swimming in the blue grotto=fantastic

When we got back, we decided to check out a natural arch (arco naturale). The walk there was estimated to be about a mile, however, the uphill journey and many steps made it seem much longer. We witness an older lady struggling to pull a bag up the hill. Nikki offers to help. While walking with her we attempt to communicate. It proved to be difficult cause she spoke no English and us no Italian. We did understand that she has to carry her groceries this far uphill distance frequently and she has been living on the Island for about 40 years. When we arrive at her house, we find that it overlooks the arco naturale. Viewing through the arch, we can see crystal blue water below. Next to the arch was an entrance to a path that led us down to this cave called Grotta di Matermania. It contained a few man made steps that didn’t seem to go anywhere. Not quite sure what the cave was used for besides it was built by the Romans and used to contained mosaics that are now in a museum. Past the cave, we followed a path that led us to another breathtaking view. After a long and sweaty walk back, we take the funicolare back to the marina (a train like object that takes us down the mountain). We decide to take a swim before our ferry arrives.
Arco Naturale

Arriving back to the town of Amalfi, we decide to rush back and shower for the expected performance that evening. When we arriving, it appears that there is no performance. I observe the same charming people from the evening early – an older lady with her dog, a man with his daughter. Not sure why there is no performance , we begin asking a couple of Italian guys for a cheap place to get a nice dinner. The nice guys walk us to a great restaurant and decline to join us but offer to ride us around in their vespas later on. We agreed. I had a great shrimp risotto and a great white table wine. The thing about Italy is that even the cheapest wines taste great. After dinner, our earlier guides meet us in front of the restaurant with their vespas. They ask if we would like to go for a walk on a pier. After walking for a little bit, they suspiciously separate us. My Italian companion is getting a little too friendly for my liking so I locate Nikki and she feels the same way. They give us a ride back to Atrani, we have one drink with them and bid them good night.

Note: This post was taken from an 2004 journal.

Paestum & Amalfi

Today was traveling day from hell. The direct route from Rome to Naples was sold out and due to communication problems it was hard to figure out an alternate route. We finally decided on a ticket to Salerno. The plan is to check our bags there at the station and take a local train to Paestum.
The town of Paestum holds the last Greek structures established in Italy. They are also the most well preserved. We begin our journey of Paestum by disembarking from the train. All we can see is a rural road that runs perpendicular and a small path straight ahead but no directional signs. After asking someone we determine that we need to follow the path straight ahead. The path is a paved walkway lined with brush, flowers, and agriculture. At the end of the path we find a street lined with tourist shops. We arrived after the tourist office has closed and could not locate a map. We ended up purchasing a guide book to direct us around.
Once inside we witnessed how life would have been in an ancient Greek town. Lots of detail were given to the Greek temples where they practiced their pagan worship of gods and goddesses. We completed our visit with gelato.

Soon we begin our journey from hell. I am not sure if everyone in Italy makes it a sport of getting tourists lost, or we cannot communicate clearly, or they just don’t know the answer and are too proud to admit it. In regards to directions, what train to catch and such, we are inundated with wrong answers. Despite all of this, we ultimately arrive at our desired destinations, but not efficiently. It is frustrating. I have learned to view it as a comedy (sitcom) that I am in and to not let it ruin my days. When we arrived back in Salerno, I was in the understanding that we needed to take a train to Amalfi- our desired destination. I even had a train ticket that I purchased in Rome that had the destination as Amalfi. For this reason, we spent a great deal of time trying to locate the train to Amalfi. We finally discovered that no train to Amalfi existed and I guess my ticket was actually a bus transfer. I still do not know how I could have figured that out on my own, especially when the ticket looks exactly like a train ticket. Once we discovered it was a bus we needed, we could not locate our bus in the many stops that existed around the train station. After asking many people, it was a nice Asian tourist that directed us to the correct bus. Her opinion was that Italians give wrong directions on purpose, I am still not convinced that they are that evil. In addition to helping us, she informed us of a free concert that night in Amalfi.

The Death Bus

Our bus finally arrived and we climbed aboard what I would call the hour and a half death trap. I call this ride a death trap because it first takes you along the coast line on a very narrow two way road that at best it about 1 1/2 cars wide. It runs along the cliff looking down on the water. The size and height of the road alone would be scary but it is also very curvy with lots of blind curves. To inform cars around the corner that the bus is coming, the bus driver honks his horn constantly; there are many curves. Also because of the narrow road cars have to constantly stop and back up to give the bus room to pass. Meanwhile vespas zoom in and out of traffic while the madness is happening. It is not unusual to see cars double parked in Italy (we saw it frequently in Rome) but cars here actually park in the road, totally obstructing traffic. Additionally, I am almost certain that we hit a car that refused to back up out of the way and decided to continue forward instead (It might of been a building but I am almost sure it was the car we hit).
On the bus, we meet a local artist that has moved to the coast from Ireland. Leo tells us of nice places to visit and a cheaper place to stay up on the hill. Deciding to stay closer to the action, we check into our orginal hostel. We place our bags in our room, change clothes, and head down to amalfi to catch the concert.
Amalfi is about a 10-15 minute walk from our town, Atrani. Amalfi at night is so beautiful and charming. It is a picturesque coast town with houses and shops placed up all along the hill. Building restrictions ensure that now new development is possible and the town will retain its charm. Along the shore, a series of boats and ferries sleep for the evening. We walk into the city center just as the concert begins. The Broadway caliber singing group begins their program with the Star Spangled Banner in celebration of the current day. We sit on the steps of the church where they are performing. We witness great performances of songs from such shows as Les Miserables, My Fair Lady, and Phantom of the Opera. Toward the end of the concert we meet up with Leo who is visiting a friend in town. He recommends an restaurant away from the main piazza. We order a carafe of wine and enjoy good discussion. He expresses his disgust with our president and the way he is running our country. I ordered a superb handmade pasta with clams and mussels. Delicious.

Rome

sweat, the vatican, drunkeness [Jul. 3rd, 2004|10:36 am]
I arrive yesterday morning fresh from my nap on the plane and I finally found my hostel by the train station. I was imediately greeted by Nikki and her friend Cliff (the boy who got stuck in the belly of the bus in Greece). Apparently he and his traveling companions decided to come to Rome coincidently. When I arrived, too early to check into room so we went sight seeing. We grabbed a bus at the train station to see Vatican city. It was amazing. I, like most americans see St. Peters Basilica only on TV and never give it another thought. But being there, you will understand the importance of religion in Roman everyday lives. The money and time that was spent to create what i can only discribe as masterpieces. The vatican additionally has a great collection of art. We followed up our tour of the vatican with a visit to the sistine chapel – something that you will also have to see for yourself. Interesting enough, our tour guide told us that Michelangelo didn’t even want to paint the sistine chapel. We are all glad he did.

Nikki, Cliff, I and cliff’s other traveling companions decided we were going to get drunk last night. We to Rome’s equivalent of a happy hour. It only lasted until 9:30 so we went off to find another bar recommended by our hostel. When we find it, we discover beers to be 5-7 euros, definitely not within my companions’ budget. We ultimately end up buying wine bottles and beer and find a nice piazza to drink the night away. We meet three guys who have the same idea and drink with us. We go back to the original bar for a while an dance. Much more I don’t remember, I guess Nikki and someone else help me to my bed. I woke up to a loud thump from the street in this noisy hostel. I feel like something that the street sweeper picked up from our piazza last night. I need to get over it and just go cause much more to see and alot more sweating to do.

The colesseum, roman forum, etc [Jul. 3rd, 2004|04:59 pm]

Hungover as I was from yesterday’s drinking adventure, we didn’t get started until about noon. Believe it or not, we got alot done in a matter of hours. Our journey started as we walked a couple of our new friends to the train station because they were off to a new destination 😦 We almost broke down and bought Mc Donalds(hangover cure) but we stopped ourselves and bought nice cheap sandwiches instead. Besides, Mc. Donalds isn’t as cheap here. We walked down to the Colosseum and ate our yummy sandwiches in front of the colesseum under a shaded tree. The struture had me in awe. It was so great, I tried to imagine what it would have been like to be a Roman watching the debachery and slaughter in this monument. Because Nikki and Andrew had already been inside, I decided I will come back on my day alone in Rome.

Next we wandered over to the Roman Forum. From a distance it looks like just a bunch of bricks and stones lying around. We however happened upon a free tour (like the one we had at Basilica di San Pietro). Through the tour, the roman forum came alive for us. We learned of saints being grilled alive and an old emperor’s indiscretions with a horse. The view from the top had me speechless.

Later we visited the Trevi fountain and made our two coin tosses (One to return to rome, and one a wish). It was spectacular also but was spoiled a little by the crowd and street vendors.

Finally we visited the spanish steps, took pictures of course and walked to the top.

I am happy because we found an internet place where I can check my aol mail, it didn’t seem to work in the hostel. Speaking of the hostel we are in, it is great. The people who work there are very nice and cool, and we are meeting many new people there. A charming and playful kitten also wanders around (it lives there). The “cute” kitten gnawed on my hand when I tried to pick it up. Spunky kitten. My only complaint about the hostel is the showers. Cold water, small water stream, and no pressure make a poor shower. Well, enough for now. We have a couple more things to see today and then a nice dinner. Tomorrow I suspect we are heading south to isle of capri and pompeii. See ya later.