Ribe: Nightwatchmen and Witches and Vikings, Oh My!

Today I am in the small historic town of Ribe, Denmark. I suppose I added this city to my itinerary because it is known as the oldest town in Denmark. On the water it was inhabited as early as 8th century. It was important in trade and said to have produced some early coins here. An early king of Denmark settled here and afterwards the community grew. Apparently Vikings and Christians lived here in peace for a while. I learn later that at some point the stench got so bad in the town in the Middle Ages from refuse and cow manure. I swear I still smell the cow manure throughout the town to this day.

Ribe Denmark

I start my visit with a check-in to my historic hotel Dagmar Hotel. Said to be the oldest hotel in Ribe it is located in the courtyard with the large cathedral. I was warned in advance that I need to make dinner reservations at the hotel restaurant ahead of time and I did not for whatever reason. I ask if they have availability for tomorrow and they do for a special outdoor BBQ event.

I drop my bags and start visiting some museums. All the museums seem to close early here so my only chance to see all the ones I want is to start right away. I start at Hex! Museum of Witch Hunt. I had this museum bookmarked but I wasn’t sure what to expect. I am pleasantly surprised at the thorough and interactive exhibit about witches and witch trials in Ribe and throughout Denmark. There are exhibits that talk about witches in recent pop culture and a very heartbreaking exhibit on how perceived witches are treated in other countries today. One witch falsely accused names a group of other witches that are part of nobility; as a result the persecution of witches greatly reduces. The audio guide is a must especially if you are an English only speaker. I spend over two hours here barely leaving time for the attached museum.

The museum nearby is the childhood home of Jacob A. Riis, a name I have heard before in NYC but had no idea who he was. Apparently the namesake of the beach in Queens New York I would visit is a famous former citizen of this town. He became famous for his writings and photographs of the working class and poor of NYC. I learned so much about his work from this museum.

I have an early dinner then meet up with the town night watchman, a tour. The night watchman is a historical figure in the town of Ribe. The watchmen were tasked with securing the town in the evenings. The tour is given in both Danish and English (if necessary) and sometimes singing is involved. Just to warn you that at least one of the stories does not really translate to English. The watchman gives us a city tour and takes about the architecture and history of the city. The tour is free and lasts about 45 minutes.

The next morning I walk over to the wooden bridges and admire the ducks with the royal blue coloring. Most are sleeping though.

Afterwards I head over to the Viking Museum which is more like a history museum of the area. Vikings are discussed a bit but only as a group that inhabited the area during early times. Most importantly is the location was beneficial for trade for many surrounding countries.

The rest of the day I explore town and get a snack. I have a large dinner planned this early evening so I don’t to eat too much today.

Groups of high school students use horse drawn carriages to carry them around from party to party. Loud music is blasting randomly from different courtyards.

Dinner at the BBQ event is better than I expected with all the grilled meats juicier than normal. The do it yourself salad bar is a nice touch, especially when it is very challenging to get a sufficient amount of vegetables daily. There is live music while I eat.

I travel to Copenhagen tomorrow so I attempt to go to bed at a decent hour but music gets louder outside my hotel and my ear plugs are rendered useless. I wish I am just out celebrating as well. Hopefully I am able to nap on the train to Copenhagen.

Aurlandsfjord and Nærøyfjord

Fjord Cruise

Our fjord cruise doesn’t start too early so we have time to have a relaxing breakfast at our hotel. It is always nice to not have to rush in the morning.

Electric cruise

We board the cruise from Flam to Gudvangen and find comfortable seats as our base downstairs where we have a panoramic view. There are a few floors of decks outside that are standing room only so we alternate going inside and out to admire different things during our cruise. Some of us already saw some of this journey the evening before during our RIB boat tour but it is nice to have more of a panoramic view from the large ferry – which is electrical thus reducing the emissions.

We arrive at the even smaller town of Gudvangen. I cannot believe it is even smaller than the town Flam but it is. The major attraction here besides boating is the working Viking village you can visit. We drop off our bags at the Viking village to go get lunch at one of maybe two restaurants in the town. I end up ordering a very large dish of meatballs.

We walk back to the Viking village and wait for the 2:00 PM tour. My friend tries ax throwing as we wait.

The tour guide takes us around the village which acts as a living village. People come from all the world to live and work here, in fact the girl from the entrance is from Minnesota. We learn about metal working, textiles, weapons, and boat making among other things. It is a very educational day in a charming Viking town. I even try archery. I am not great at it but perhaps in time I could be better.

Weaving demonstration

We try one of the local beers and go to catch the bus that is the next leg of our journey. The bus will take us to the train that will take us to Bergen. We have one stop along the way to admire the views.

Finally we are on our train to Bergen. We are getting in later than I’d like. We find a restaurant still serving meals later. It is our splurge meal. I decide to take a chance and order the reindeer steak. I am pleased with my choice. It is similar to beef and not gamey at all. I also order a rhubarb trifle for desert. This is probably one of the best meals I’ve had in Norway so far, and I am paying a good amount for it.

My friend talks me into staying out for one drink even though it is close to midnight (way past my bedtime). It is difficult here because even at midnight, the darkest it will be, it isn’t even fully dark. I would be tricked into thinking it was earlier than it is if my body wasn’t so tired.

Almost midnight

Tomorrow we explore Bergen a bit.