The Angkor temple tours are divided into the small and big circuits. The small circuit covers the famous temples (angkor wat, tomb raider temples) and the big circuit covers the ones a little further out. On my first day I am doing the Angkor big circuit tour with a sunset view. The big circuit tour begins with the temple of Preah Khan, Bantaey Sai (optional) and continues with Neak Pean, Ta Som, East Mebon and Pre Rup.
My tuk tuk picks me up at my hotel early but not too early. We stop at the official ticket center for me to buy my pass. You can buy a 1,3 or 7 day pass. I buy the 3 day pass because I know I’ll be visiting at least two days of my visit to Siem Reap.
We drive by all the temples in the small circuit so I get a sneak peak on what I will see tomorrow.
Preah Khan
The first temple stop is at Preah Khan, a 12th century temple built for the father of King Jayavarman VII. It is a good introduction to the temples of the ancient Khmer empire. It is peaceful and the crowds are thin this morning.
Today I head to the Mekong river delta. Today is just a short visit. A van picks me up at my hotel and we drive out to a launch area.
On the way we stop to see a bunch of Buddhas at Vinh Trang Pagoda.
We arrive at the boat launching site. We are shown a map to see the areas we plan to visit today.
First we stop at a honey bee farm. We learn about honey and royal jelly. We get the hard sell on the wonders of royal jelly. We get to enjoy a honey tea.
Honey Tea
We try some local fruits: Mango, Papaya, persimmon, dragonfruit, jackfruit.
While we sample fruits we experience a musical performance. Singers sing local songs and we hear instruments I have never seen before.
video
It is now time to catch a ride to where we leave for our boat rides.
Apparently it is too far to walk or I would have walked it if I could. The transportation to the boat is a horse drawn carriage. Most people probably think that is quaint but I have vowed to not use animals for transportation like that anymore. When asked if we would like alternative transportation I and one other ask for something else. The other mode is an electric golf cart. Apparently it is a big deal because the guide keeps trying to talk me out of it. I know I am sort of being “difficult” about it but I am going to trust my gut this time. If there is an alternative mode of transport then I am taking it. There is a long wait but the cart finally arrive for us difficult ones. The distance doesn’t seem too far. I probably could have walked it.
jackfruit
Launch area
It gets pretty crowded at the a launch site. Lots of boats are being filled with tourists such as ourselves. Eventually it settles down a bit.
We stop at a coconut candy factory. We get to see how the candies are produced. After sampling the candies I buy some to snack on during my travels. Unfortunately they don’t get too far since ants in my hotel room later in Siem Reap chow down on them instead 😦
We also get to sample some coconut liquor. I try a little bit, but not the type that is fermented with snakes, yuk.
We have another boat ride, this one motorized, to where we are to eat lunch. There are less boats in this area so besides the motors, it is very peaceful.
It is time for lunch. Look at those fried fish!
After eating I take advantage of one of the bikes they have to take a short ride around. There are fish, fruit and random animals around the property to look at.
We take the boat back to the van. We are given a refreshing coconut drink to finish out the day.
Today I am taking a day trip to the UNESCO World Heritage site My Son Sanctuary from my hotel in Hoi An (Vietnam).
The name ‘My Son’ looks like you are saying “my son” but it is actually pounced “me sun”.
These Hindu temples were built between the 4th and 14th century by the Champa Kingdom. My tour guide referred to it as little Angkor Wat. These temples are smaller and less impressive than the temples in Cambodia but are dated earlier and look similar, thus the nickname. My Son is impressive but I agree with the criticism that maybe it is not as impressive if you have seen Angkor Wat first. Luckily my first visit to Angkor Wat is later in my travels.
This UNESCO site had lots of destruction in the war (B52 bombing in 1969 and 1972) as the south Vietnamese were using the temples to hide out.
Researchers are still discovering how they were originally constructed in order to try to repair them. During my visit I saw temples in various states of repair.
Bomb site
There is a heritage dance show. It is standing room only in the very back for me. I only catch a short glimpse of it.
It starts to rain, people head for cover but I find it to be a great time to walk around with thinner crowds.
When our tour of My Son is complete we visit a lady who makes rice paper. We get a demonstration on how they are made.
We learn how the the rice flour is made, we see the fire below, and watch her spread the mixture.
I try my hand at it. I spread the substance and when it is cooked I transfer it to a cooling rack.
Using rice crackers we make a tasty snack with the rolled up rice pancake. Locals take these as snacks. It is pretty good.
We are taken to a local house where we are served a delicious meal family style. We are instructed on how to wet the dry rice sheets and make wraps filled with delicious toppings.
Today I am traveling up to Doi Suthep Mountain to visit the big temple up there.
I heard there are some great nature trails and other places to visit on the mountain but I didn’t schedule my time wisely and missed out on most of that in favor of some downtime (self-care).
I think I am heading up there.
A songthaew needed and I hire one for the trip. Instead of hiring one of the ones down the street I flag one down on another street and negotiate a price with him.
He takes me on the long curvy trip up the mountain. The back is open so I have a great view to see the trip behind me.
Look, another red truck.
We stop on the way up for the view of Chiang Mai below.
When we arrive at the top my driver tells me he will wait for me. As you can see there are many red trucks waiting. He gives me his card and I take a picture of his license just in case I can’t find him.
I climb the first set of stairs where there are a couple of statues.
As you can see, pretty foggy (smoggy) up here.
After the initial climb you will find another set of stairs, this one much longer.
A good number of stairs to get to the temple
Wat Phra That Doi Suthep
I pay the admission and I have to remove my shoes to enter the temple complex. The whole complex is very busy as most places I have visited in south east Asia. It is crowded with people who come to pray and other tourists like myself. I try to avoid as many humans as possible to get unobstructed photos but it is difficult. Even when no tourists are in my photos, a photography sales person will walk right into my frame trying to sell me their version of the photos. It is quite frustrating.
I do get a moment of peace when I walk into this temple, kneel down before the monk and receive a blessing. It is quite nice how accepting they are of visitors.
Holy water splashed on me and received a blessing here
Once I leave the temple complex I walk around and there is a terrace that has a nice view.
Some fun looking tree
I climb back down the stairs to find my driver. I have him drop me off near another temple in town that is close enough that I can walk back later on my own.
Shoes need to be off before you visit the cats upstairs and you are required to sanitize your hands before entering.
Once I entered the staff member helped me with some plates and soon I had many best friends. None of the kitties looked like they were starving but they sure acted like it.
It was cute to watch all the chubby kitties eat. Once I ran out of kibbles though they were off to the next person who had food for them.
Where’s my food?
I sat around and finished my beverage and watched the kitties a bit before I decided to head back down Nimman. Later that evening I try some Pad Thai from the famous Pad Thai Mustache Style.
Luckily I am there early and there is not a long wait for my food. I pick up some good hipster pad thai to end my very good day.
On my first full day in Chiang Mai I decided to go visit some of the temples in town. Some are in walking distance to my hotel but others are a bit further.
The key is to hire a songthaew or red pickup truck for the day to take you around or to catch it like a taxi around town. I didn’t have the confidence yet to negotiate a rate so I decided to go with a grab car instead (south east asia version of uber/lyft).
songthaew or red pickup truck at end of my street
Wat Umong Suan Phutthatham
My first stop is the Wat Umong Suan Phutthatham temple, a buddhist temple known for its monks and tunnels.
The temple is fun to walk around inside with all its little alcoves. Also on the grounds you can find signs with inspirational phrases. Finally on the grounds is a meditation pond with lots of birds. You can hear so many birds in the trees (waiting to poop on you, lol).
I didn’t arrange for a ride back therefore I had no way to get back into town. The red trucks in the parking lot are already paid to wait for existing visitors and I couldn’t get a grab to come out to get me as far as I am. I decided to just try to walk back to the main tourist area. It is a hot 45 minute to 1 hour walk but what choice did I have? I wandered through some neighborhoods and got to see a bit of local life. Maps.me and google maps seemed to be a bit loopy so I am sure I am not given a direct route.
Alley way in residential area.
I walk by a few temples viewed from the outside.
Soon there is a college campus in my way. I can’t find a good way to cut through. When I finally do find a cut through I end up walking through a learning mortuary. I keep hoping I won’t be presented with dead bodies during this stretch.
Finally I make it to the tourist area. The first temple I end up visiting is Wat Chedi Luang (Elephant Temple).
Wat Chedi Luang (Elephant Temple)
Wat Chedi Luang is fun due to all the elephants on the sides of the old temple.
fun flowering tree
All the temples require conservative dress. Additionally some you not able to visit if you are on your period (women) and for some women are not allowed at all (men only temples). I want to be respectful of culture norms but I would be lying if I said this didn’t upset me just a little bit.
Wat Phra Singh (Gold Temple)
Lastly for the day is a visit to the gold temple Wat Phra Singh, another buddhist temple.
Hot and tired I walk back toward my hotel. I have a craving for the fried chicken next door to my hotel so I order myself the best frozen mango drink and plate of fried chicken and I don’t regret it one bit. It is off to bed early because tomorrow is my day at the Elephant Sanctuary.
Growing With Leala 