south Slavs – Growing With Leala

The next day I visit the House of flowers and the museum of Yugoslavia.

Google maps, while working fine the past two days, all of a sudden can no longer give me directions that includes public transportation options so I download a bus map to try to figure it out like the “old days”. It’s challenging because the language barrier.

I find my directions to the House of Flowers that includes a walk over a bridge and a walk uphill.

The House of Flowers is the official burial place of the beloved (and sometimes not) Yugoslavian leader Josip Broz Tito. Attached to the mausoleum are wall exhibits of photos of different events of Yugoslavia. It was truly a unique type of socialism in Yugoslavia.

Also nearby is the Museum of Yugoslavia. It is a collection of items related to the time of Yugoslavia. There is supposed to be another museum in the complex but it is closed for renovations. This museum is informative and has information in English but lacks some context for certain events, especially in the last 30 years or so. I guess it’s understandable because there are still things that can’t be discussed because there is not the political will. It’s best to just leave it unknown I guess than stir up anger. It is probably still too soon.

Later I tour the beautiful Serbian Orthodox Church the Church of Saint Sava. The church is magnificently beautiful inside. There is so much gold and bright features.

Lunch today is cevapi. Cevapi is one of my favorite Balkan dishes. The only disappointing thing is that this one doesn’t come with the amazing bread.

I decide it is time for dessert and walk to the Hotel Moskva, a local landmark known for its Russian Art Nouveau style. There is a cafe attached here where they serve their distinct Moskva cake, a cake of almonds cherries and pineapples (Moskva šnit). I enjoy the cake with a coffee and get to people watch for a while.

For the evening I want to go check out the neighborhood of Zemun for dinner. Since I know very little about the neighborhood I choose a restaurant as my destination. Google maps is still not working with the public transportation instructions. I suppose I could take a taxi but I am not familiar with how taxis work in town and I’m not in the mood to try to figure it out tonight so I hang out nearby my hotel instead. It’s almost like google maps is no longer receiving a feed from the Belgrade buses. This is quite disappointing for a solo traveler that tends to be fiercely independent and hates asking for help. Maybe tomorrow I’ll have a better go at it.

In the morning I walk down to Kalmegdan to see the old fortress and get views of the city.

I take a break from the heat and pack my things since I leave early tomorrow morning for my long flight home.

I have one last early evening walk.

I stop at a rakia bar try some different flavored rakija, one specifically thyme flavored. I grab a sampler pack to take home with me tomorrow.

Soon I’m off to bed for my early morning flight.

In the morning I am dropped far away from the airport entrance for some reason. I slowly drag myself to the check in and then start the long journey home. There isn’t a fast and easy route to get from this part of Europe back to the USA. My travels were amazing but I am happy to be home. I don’t yet know what is next for me but I am sure I won’t stay still for long.

I’ve only been here a few hours but I am liking Zagreb. I like its vibe and I like its grit. Zagreb is in the northern part of Croatia and is much different than the Adriatic style Croatia that most people are familiar with.

I check in to my B&B and look for a restaurant since I didn’t really eat lunch today and it is already mid afternoon.

I try a local specialty called strukli. There are a couple different ways strukli is cooked but it’s a salty cheese dish. It can be sweet but I never try a sweet one. I order the gratinated version which is like a pasta dish served very hot. I have to wait until it cools to not burn my mouth. I am very surprised I like it so much. I have had many cheesy things lately so hard to impress but this dish is good.

I decide to walk up the stairs to upper town where I get a look at the city and the funicular that I will take tomorrow. It is overcast and a little chilly but I don’t mind. At least it’s not raining (today) like other parts of Croatia have been.

Most museums are closed but one that is open later is the museum of broken relationships. The theme is relics that are acquired during a relationship, romantic or otherwise. Exhibits are accompanied by short stories or explanations of its meaning.

I leave the museum and walk around upper town, the old part of Zagreb that’s located up on the higher part of town. One can walk up stairs to get here like I did, walk uphill or take a funicular (which I will do later).

One common thing I notice is that most of the major sites are almost completely covered and under maintenance. I already know I am going to have to return to see the city when the work is completed.

I walk some more and find a hidden church in a walkway as I walk back down toward lower town. I find out later the significance of it. Porta di Pietra, or Stone Gate, is a Christian shrine to Mary that miraculous survived a fire.

It’s probably obvious by now but if there is a “hidden” tunnel or cave or whatnot I am interested in seeing it. I head to the not so hidden WWII bomb shelter tunnels in Zagreb. There are multiple entrances but there isn’t much to it besides it being pretty large. I guess it has good acoustics because i hear singing from one part of the tunnel.

I pass through the passage way called the Oktogon. It has a beautiful octagon atrium.

The weather is nice so I walk the streets some more.

Nikola Tesla actually born in the region in a town nearby to Zagreb. They have a statue for him in the city.

I have a drink at a cafe and then a snack and then I head back to my B&B, staying up later than I anticipated. My reprieve from the regional rain ends since it starts up when I get back to my B&B. One problem with shoulder season travel is the threat of rain. The rain goes all night but hopefully it doesn’t ruin the two tours I have planned for tomorrow.

Tag: south Slavs

End of my travels

Zagreb, Croatia