Gdańsk: Museum Afternoon

I started today at the Solidarity museum and the Gdańsk Shipyard.

My day isn’t over yet and I almost forget there are a couple museums free today since it is a Monday.

I stop first at Artus Court on the famous Dlugi Targ. Artus court is named after King Arthur and was used as a meeting place for merchants and social life in the 17th century. The decor and art in the museum reflects the importance of this building for the means of commerce. I particularly enjoy the animal inspired art in the building.

The day isn’t over yet and the Town Hall museum also has free admission so I head over there. I tour the museum but skip the tower since that costs extra.

After museum time I walk the streets once more then visit happy hour at the rooftop bar of my hotel.

Because I wish to have a nicer dining experience I have reservations this evening at Tylge Gdansk. Even with a reservation I had to wait a little while but the food was superb.

It is another lovely evening stroll walking back to my hotel. Love the 24 hour flower automatic.

Trip is coming to an end soon. I have one more day out and about.…

Gdańsk: Solidarność

Today I visit the European Solidarity Centre, better known as the Solidarity museum. Solidarity is the movement that one could argue started the end of communism in Eastern Europe. In Gdansk, Poland it all started with a strike of workers wanting to unionize.

Conditions in Poland during communism are not great. Citizens are jailed for speaking out or individuality. There are food shortages and shortages on just about everything else. The communist government tries to create housing to help with shortage but they are state assigned and hard to get. Information access is controlled; there is radio free Europe broadcasted from Munich but the government eventually jams the signal of that. In fact it was against the law to listen to radio free Europe.

The solidarity museum centers on the 1980 shipyard strike from which catapulted a movement.

Photo of two leaders being affectionate. It is to show how Poland is subservient to Soviet Union (USSR).

The United polish workers party was the only party that existed at the time and there were elections but they were mostly for show. They used cruel interrogations to try to keep people under control.

On December 17 1970 there are demonstrations and protests about high prices and more. There is a massacre on Baltic coast (multiple cities) where 45 people lost lives.

Kor (workers defense committee) formed 1976 as well as other groups.

Polish Pope John Paul II comes to visit for the first time in 1979. There is a pope mobile in the museum.

The pope visiting gives the Polish people hope but there are also empty shop shelves and long queues as a result of failed communist policies.

There are Lublin strikes in 1980 and later in Gdańsk shipyard over a worker fired and other working conditions. They created a list of demands. These demands are in the UNESCO registry. The demands establish free trade unions and the right to strike. They avoid radicalism and aggressive language.

Map that shows the progression of the strike

The main movement starts in Gdańsk but spreads south as many other work places go on strike.

Solidarity is now a slogan.

Visual representation of Solidarity in the museum

They meet first on wages and then press for unions. Unions and the arts take off after solidarity is introduced.

Solidarity becomes more popular and leads to more free elections. This encouraged other eastern bloc countries to form unions and democratic elections. The United polish workers party saw solidarity as a growing threat.

December 1981 martial law is implemented by the communist government. They blame solidarity for bad conditions and say it’s a coup d’tat. Martial law photos ends up in American newspapers and as a result USA puts sanctions on Poland and the USSR.

A gate at shipyard was destroyed by vehicle in 1982

The pope returns in 1983 and revitalizes the resistance movement. Resistors are worn as a symbol of the movement.

Underground publishing increases.

There is support from across the world, even USA.

In 1987 the pope visits again

It is reported internationally what is happening behind the iron curtain. There are protests in the USA on the matter.

Finally there are highly publicized round table talks February 6 1989. There is an immersive exhibit that lets you feel you are part of the talks.

These meetings are a step toward democracy. Permission is granted for daily newspapers and censorship is softened. Independent judges are implemented in the courts.

Lech Wałęsa, one of the founders of the solidarity movement gets the Nobel peace prize and eventually serves as president of free Poland.

The collapse of communism is 1989 in Poland and around the same time communism collapses in surrounding countries.

Poland is the only country in the region with democratic transformation through peaceful revolution. The Solidarity movement endorsed many candidates in a free election. They used pop culture in the marketing of some of the candidates.

The museum ends with a list of basic rights on white walls. You can also leave your thoughts as part as a living exhibit.

The museum gave me a new perspective on the end of communism in Eastern Europe.

Shipyard views from the roof of the European Solidarity Center.

After the visit to the Solidarity museum I visit the Montownia food court nearby where I eat lunch. There are a mix of international stalls located there.

My day isn’t over yet. More on other sightseeing later.

Denmark, land of Danes

I’ve left Norway after a nice long visit. There is still so much to see there but my bank account can’t handle an extended visit in that country. Now I head to Denmark which is almost as pricey.

My plan for Denmark is to start north and then eventually end up in Copenhagen. My itinerary started busy with many city changes but I do eliminate at least one overnight location because I very much need to start scheduling more downtime. After my friend who never sleeps left me in Norway I joke that I took at least four naps the next day (two of them were on flights but I never nap like that back home). Not getting a full night sleep for multiple days hits me hard….but I did have fun.

Now I’m in Aalborg, a quiet town in northern Denmark. Right before I get off the airport bus I slam my leg into something. I am always smashing into things but this pain is so bad it debilitates me for a second, luckily the driver doesn’t take off right away because it takes me a second to get my composure and bags. As I hop off the bus a bike almost runs into me. Apparently part of the sidewalk is a bike lane. I am loving the bike friendliness but I just am not prepared. I drop my bags and take a couple more seconds to breathe through the pain. This is going to be a huge bruise later (note: the bruise resulting from this injury stays with me months later – no exaggeration).

I find my hotel on this unseasonably HOT day and there is no AC but they do include a fan in the room. Bonus points for them. I have no real plans within the town only a day trip tomorrow but the front desk is very helpful with suggestions.

After my bag drop at hotel I go out to explore and eat lunch. All the places I had picked to eat at are either empty or not open yet. I settle on a place that has smørrebrød, a thick heavy dark bread topped with any number of ingredients. I order the eel because someone says eel is good in some online review. There is bread, some sort of aioli, cold eel and topped with tomatoes, chives and dill. It is good but I find myself eyeing my neighbors plates instead. Smørrebrød is popular throughout Denmark so I am sure I’ll try it again.

I walk down to the water to admire the action down there. It is Saturday and beautiful and many are out enjoying it. A DJ plays techno music in a park while people sip on beers they can purchase from a trailer.

Also nearby is a very large USA coast guard ship. It is available for touring but I have missed the visting hours. After chatting with my cousin he tells me that it was docked in London years ago and he learned it used to be a German ship that USA acquired in WW2.

I walk down the party street Jomfru Ane Gade. I am not in the mood for partying but I do come across this interesting tapas chain on the corner of the street. My smorrebrod from earlier didn’t quite fill me up so I head in for a snack and a drink. The food isn’t too exciting but I am able to get some vegetable tapas to fill my veggie quota for the day (although the asparagus is swimming in bacon, not quite as healthy).

The next morning after breakfast I take the train to Skagen. Google somehow had the times wrong and I had to wait an additional half hour – perhaps I was looking at Saturday times and today is Sunday. Anyway the train runs every hour most days and is about a slow 2 hour ride to Skagen. It is slow because there are a few stops where it just sits and waits for about ten minutes. Without those waits I believe the route could be faster.

After I get off the train I head first to a bakery. I walk down a shopping street and am tempted by all the adorable sundresses on the racks outside. At the bakery I try a very large danish (but it is technically a half serving). I can tell you what we get in the USA should be embarrassed be called a danish. It is nothing like what I’ve been getting in the Nordic countries.

I head over to the bike rental place closer to the water. I realize later there is one right outside the train station but because I didn’t walk by it I never realized it was there until I caught the afternoon train back. The bikes are rented for the day which is fine because I have no idea how long I will need the bike anyway. I head in the direction of Grenen. I stop to admire the ocean views along the way.

When I get to the parking lot for Grenen there is a large area for parking bikes. Luckily these bikes have locks built in. I make sure the bike is locked and take the key with me.

It is a 3km walk to and back to the tip of the beach that contains the point where the two oceans collide into each other: North Sea and Baltic Sea. You walk past old German bunkers used by the nazi’s in WWII when they occupied Denmark. I then walk along the beach where dozens of jellyfish are pushed onto shore by the waves. I try to avoid them but do end up stepping on one when I am on my phone and not paying attention. Luckily there are no stingers involved since I am barefoot and enjoying the cold water. We are told no swimming is allowed because of the strong currents but I do occasionally let the water cover my feet.

I get to the tip of the peninsula where the oceans meet. You can see the waves occasionally head toward each other. I think the effect is more pronounced at low tide but now it is closer to high tide. There is a crowd at the tip as well as unclothed children running around. It is my understanding that Denmark is pretty liberal with its stance on nudity but I am struggling to get pictures without these kids in it. Thankfully they soon get clothed and leave.

I enjoy the view for a bit and then walk back to my bike. Except for the high tide I timed my visit correctly because it seems like it is going to start to rain soon. I get on the bike and head back to Skagen. I ride around a bit and get a seafood lunch. I order a plate of peel and eat shrimp and Norwegian lobsters (similar to langostinos).

It does start to rain a bit while I eat but I decided to ride around town a bit anyway. I return the bike and head to the train station to take the 2 hour ride back. When I arrive in Aalborg I take a quick stop at the singing trees. There is a park behind the train station that has boxes in front of rows of trees. Each box represents a musical artist that has visited the city. You can push a button and listen to samples of their music. It is a very unique art installation. The park seems safe enough but toward the edge of this exhibit there are some people sitting at a picnic table acting erratically (drugs maybe). Every place I’ve been in my recent travels has been very safe but I also have good instinct so I get far away from the group…..no need to chase trouble.

I fortunately bought snacks this time and decided I wasn’t hungry enough to go eat dinner somewhere tonight. This might be a good time to catch up on some much needed rest again.

Tomorrow I head to another city in Denmark.

The not so wee Titanic

I am in Belfast and everything is wee this and wee that. I originally thought we was a Scottish-only thing but watching the amazing show “The Derry Girls” corrected me in that matter. Side note: I wanted to originally visit Derry during this trip but due to me traveling off season, none of the tours are running there yet. I love the show and cannot visit the town without a proper tour of all the filming locations. If you have not seen it, this fantastic show gives you a glimpse into life of Northern Ireland during the 90’s through teenage girls. This show hits even harder because I was a teenage girl in the 90’s and I get to see what life was like for girls my age overseas in Northern Ireland.

Anyway today I am to visit the Titanic experience and tour around town. I look at the weather report and rain is expected this afternoon so I force myself to go wander around town this morning before my Titanic reservations.

I finish my morning tour of the city at the waterfront. I have to cross the Lagan Weir footbridge across the water to make the walk to the Titanic Museum. It is a about a mile walk but there are things to look at along the waterfront like Game of Thrones glass panels and a sound activated wind chime that makes sounds that replicate an active ship construction.

I finally pass the smaller boat, the nomadic, a smaller version of the same class of boat as the titanic. I will tour this boat a little later.

I get to the main building, it is designed to look like a boat, even the reflections in the pools outside are specifically designed.

I am early for my entry time and I guess because I bought the package with a guided tour I have to actually wait. I go to the cafe to try to get a cider while I wait but they have the same law as back home, you cannot purchase alcohol before noon on Sundays (I find out later that is the case for bank holidays too).

Finally it is time to start and our guide takes us to the building across the way. Normally more time is spend outdoors but it is still raining so she takes us to cover so we are comfortable. The tour I am on basically takes us through the offices of the company that designed and built the titanic White Star Line (building is now a posh hotel). We learn many things about how the boats were constructed and the workers who built it. For example, workers building the ships were not known by name, only by number and had to have access to their numbered time card at all times or they would not get paid or worse fired. Bathrooms breaks were pretty strict. It basically seemed like hard work.

Good thing I did my sightseeing before titanic because I end up spending multiple hours at the titanic so there is little afternoon left when I am done.

I start at the nomadic after the guided tour because it closes earlier. I get to see inside a smaller version of the company’s ships.

Finally I enter the main museum. The main exhibit is huge, being multi-floors and interactive. It is very thorough. There is a little ride inside that takes you through a titanic construction experience. There are exhibits about the missions to discover the wreckage years later. The museum also talks about immigration and labor history. A visit to the titanic museum can take the entire day if you tour it properly.

I make a dinner reservation for the early evening because I don’t want to be caught scrambling like I did last night for my dinner. It is at a fish restaurant. I enjoy oysters and a cod with a side of chips.

It’s raining again so I am in my hotel lobby drinking a smithwicks. As you remember I have some beer homework to do to prepare for St. Patricks Day so its all legit. I just have to force myself to stay up somewhat late so I don’t wake up at 2 am once again.