End of my travels

Church of Saint Sava

The next day I visit the House of flowers and the museum of Yugoslavia.

Google maps, while working fine the past two days, all of a sudden can no longer give me directions that includes public transportation options so I download a bus map to try to figure it out like the “old days”. It’s challenging because the language barrier.

I find my directions to the House of Flowers that includes a walk over a bridge and a walk uphill.

The House of Flowers is the official burial place of the beloved (and sometimes not) Yugoslavian leader Josip Broz Tito. Attached to the mausoleum are wall exhibits of photos of different events of Yugoslavia. It was truly a unique type of socialism in Yugoslavia.

Also nearby is the Museum of Yugoslavia. It is a collection of items related to the time of Yugoslavia. There is supposed to be another museum in the complex but it is closed for renovations. This museum is informative and has information in English but lacks some context for certain events, especially in the last 30 years or so. I guess it’s understandable because there are still things that can’t be discussed because there is not the political will. It’s best to just leave it unknown I guess than stir up anger. It is probably still too soon.

Later I tour the beautiful Serbian Orthodox Church the Church of Saint Sava. The church is magnificently beautiful inside. There is so much gold and bright features.

Lunch today is cevapi. Cevapi is one of my favorite Balkan dishes. The only disappointing thing is that this one doesn’t come with the amazing bread.

I decide it is time for dessert and walk to the Hotel Moskva, a local landmark known for its Russian Art Nouveau style. There is a cafe attached here where they serve their distinct Moskva cake, a cake of almonds cherries and pineapples (Moskva šnit). I enjoy the cake with a coffee and get to people watch for a while.

For the evening I want to go check out the neighborhood of Zemun for dinner. Since I know very little about the neighborhood I choose a restaurant as my destination. Google maps is still not working with the public transportation instructions. I suppose I could take a taxi but I am not familiar with how taxis work in town and I’m not in the mood to try to figure it out tonight so I hang out nearby my hotel instead. It’s almost like google maps is no longer receiving a feed from the Belgrade buses. This is quite disappointing for a solo traveler that tends to be fiercely independent and hates asking for help. Maybe tomorrow I’ll have a better go at it.

In the morning I walk down to Kalmegdan to see the old fortress and get views of the city.

I take a break from the heat and pack my things since I leave early tomorrow morning for my long flight home.

I have one last early evening walk.

I stop at a rakia bar try some different flavored rakija, one specifically thyme flavored. I grab a sampler pack to take home with me tomorrow.

Soon I’m off to bed for my early morning flight.

In the morning I am dropped far away from the airport entrance for some reason. I slowly drag myself to the check in and then start the long journey home. There isn’t a fast and easy route to get from this part of Europe back to the USA. My travels were amazing but I am happy to be home. I don’t yet know what is next for me but I am sure I won’t stay still for long.

Novi Sad

A quick breakfast before my tour

Today it is supposed to rain and it never does but what we do have is overcast weather in very comfortable temperatures. It makes the day tour I have today very enjoyable (limited sweating). North of Belgrade is very flat and agricultural. I am heading to the city of Novi Sad and I see sunflowers, grapes, apples,pears and peaches on the way. Also on the way I see small towns with distinct houses with living spaces in back of the house.

Our first stop Monastery Krusedol in Fruska Gora where Serbian school trips go because it is important in history. There are amazing frescos but that some are destroyed, and some rebuilt new frescos over old. The former king and other royals are buried here. It is here I learn that the Serbian Orthodox church uses the Julian calendar.

Next we stop at a wine tasting room in the town of Sremski Karlovci for red Bermet wine tasting. It is like vermouth and a dessert red wine with herbs. It’s only made in the Fruska Gora region (like champagne only made in Champagne valley). Bermet is strong at 16-18% alcohol. I only get to try one wine. I had wanted to buy a bottle but other guests in our group monopolized all the time and I had to leave before I was able to purchase something else to try. It is a distinct wine.

Novi Sad is a Serbian city that used to be part of Austria empire and also sits on the Danube river. It is a culturally diverse laidback city. Most guidebooks will tell you to take at least a day trip here from Belgrade but I would suggest an overnight or two. I definitely would have liked more time in this city.

The famous fortress here, Petrovaradin Fortress, is closed because of bad storm week before. There are lots of trees down blocking the entry roads. The fortress also holds a famous annual EXIT music festival. Apparently as far as fortresses go it is worth a visit – a reason to return.

During our city tour our guide tells us about the writing in both Cyrillic and Latin letters. The Cyrillic is a bit different here than what you’d see in Russia though. I have an urge to learn Cyrillic after his quick lesson.

We get some free time in Novi Sad to walk around and get lunch. I head to lunch first because I had a very small breakfast. I go to a traditional restaurant that is decorated like someone’s home. I had my heart set on the Sarna (cabbage rolls) since I’ve craved it since I was in Bosnia in April but unfortunately it isn’t the season for it, the sauerkraut is fermenting right now for the upcoming season. I order the stuffed peppers instead. Lots of meat and very satisfying.

I wander around town some more and then meet up with my tour group to head back to Belgrade. I really wish I would have had two nights overnight in this charming city. I definitely want to return to Novi Sad someday and do a night or two to really experience it.

After back in town I decide to get something quick for dinner and buy a bottle of Serbian wine since I thought I’d have more of an opportunity to try some today. More sightseeing scheduled for tomorrow.