Montenegro day trip

Ostrog Monastery

After my day of work and leisure I meet my tour group at 7 am the next day. We are to explore sights in North Montenegro. Our driver explains the buoys and boxes in the water are for fishing and mussel farming. I have tried some delicious sea bass but mussels are next on my list. We first stop to see the two islands outside of Perast. We do not boat over to them though. I am regretting my day off yesterday since that would have been my only chance to see both the town of Perast and the two islands.

Map of Montenegro

We start an ascent up hill. It is curvy but I am not concerned because I happen to be in the front of the bus. There are beautiful views of the bay of Kotor from above.

I loom at the gorgeous views and then look to the side, a girl from our bus is puking her guts out into the bushes. At first I offer my seat to her but after realizing how far back her seat is I decide to just share the row with her. I share my motion sickness pills with her and the girl on the other side of me who is suffering too. I learned my lesson in Thailand so I always have the pills on me for road trips.

We stop briefly for breakfast and coffee.

Our next stop is a lake called Black lake. It is located in Durmitor National Park. We don’t have time to walk around the complete lake because the levels are high and it would take too long. I admire the views of the mountains and hike some of the shorter trails. It is pretty but nothing more impressive than what I have already seen. This is where my extensive traveling backfires on me as it gets harder to impress me these days. It is still chilly out and there is still some snow on the ground.

From the park we travel to a very large bridge over the Tara River. Some in the group are dropped off ahead of the bridge stop. They plan to zip line across the very deep canyon. The rest of us take the walk across the bridge on a very narrow walkway, making sure the constant traffic doesn’t accidently hit us when we stray off path. Despite the scary walk it is a beautiful view. The river below is a color that almost seems made up on a computer. The view is lovely.

Stuffed peppers at lunch stop

For our final stop we stop at the Ostrog Monastery, a very popular Serbian Orthodox Church built into a hill. Many make the pilgrimage barefoot up the steep switchbacks to pray to the body of Vasilije, the founder of the church. There is also some lore about a grape vine growing in the wall of the church in a place that is not conducive to growth. There are some very old frescos inside. Unfortunately I didn’t take any pictures inside because it is forbidden and for some reason I am a strict rule follower lately (even though most are not).

Drive on the way back

We get back late but I still need to eat. I attempt my first of many disappointing servings of mussels. One would think that since they are farmed nearby that they would be fresh and flavorful, but that is not the case. The mussel meat is very small of the ones that are actually opened and the taste is probably the worst I’ve ever had of mussels. I can only guess maybe they are not in season yet. The dessert is good though.

Tomorrow I am switching countries again and head to Croatia where I’ll meet my friend soon. I probably could have spent more time in Montenegro so I’ll just have to come back some day.

Herzegovina Day – Kravice Waterfalls, Blagaj, Počitelj

Kravice Waterfalls

Today I am exploring the Herzegovina region through an organized tour. I could visit these places on my own but not without a car. I have met others during my time here that have rented a car but I do not want to deal with the additional hassle of renting a car this early in my travels. Plus with a tour guide you get commentary and insight to what life is like as a local.

Before I go into the tour, lets take a look at this amazing breakfast spread from my hotel. I don’t typically stay in places that include breakfast because I travel on the cheap but I got lucky this time.

Herzegovina is a region of Bosnia and Herzegovina and not a state as many people think. There are two regions of the county, Bosnia and Herzgovina, thus giving name to the country. Within BiH (abbreviated) there are states and border lines that do divide the country a bit but I am not going to talk about that because I’ll probably explain it wrong because even after being here a week it is a little confusing to me.

On our first stop we are taken up a hill and shown a beautiful view of the city of Mostar, the city I am currently staying in.

Vines along the drive

Soon we are at Blagaj Tekke, a village that has a charming Dervish monastery by a cliff with a flow of water coming out from a cave. We are short on time for the stop so I skip touring the monastery. This is when having my own transportation would be useful.

The water level is high this time of year. Part of the cafe is under water today.

It is here that I run into two girls I met on a tour yesterday. They are from the UK and very nice. I sit with them briefly and enjoy coffee with the view. Did I also mention that there are two girls from Singapore on my tour today that I actually met on a tour in Sarajevo. It seems like it is a small world in the Balkans travel circuit. Both pairs are heading to Croatia as am I, I won’t be surprised if I see them again.

We visit where the rivers meet. This time of year the water levels are very high. Our guide shows us pictures how narrow the river gets.

We stop at the village Počitelj, another place with much destruction during the war. Fortunately money went to the city to repair some of the damage. Unfortunately many don’t want to return to the village because of the terrible memories, one of which being the concentration camps just over the hill.

I climb to the fortress at the top to see the views below.

Our last stop is Kravice waterfall. We are told we are lucky since it is at its best right now. They are privately owned so there is no restriction on development. It seems like soon the place will be overly commericalized. For now during off season it is nice. A companion on the tour talks me into taking a boat ride. I get up close and feel the mist from the waterfall.

Two of the brave girls I am with have brought their swims suits. They say it is real cold im the water. It is really early I’m the season to aim but it gets very crowded when it is warm.

We make one final stop at a place that has a war memorial. Our guide talks about a local hero. We also see an example of a white box that was used to transfer food and supplies across the river at night so people on the other side would not starve to death.

I get back in town and visit the local wine shop that was closed yesterday. I participate in their wine and cheese tasting experience. One of the co-owners is lovely and she tells me some great stories. I love how open and friendly locals are.

After I head to the tourist restaurant Sadravan. The staff dress in traditional attire and has all the makings of a tourist trap but the food is actually pretty good. I order trout and later a dessert.

I finish off the night at the pub nearby where I get a very large amount of wine for about 2 euros. I can barely finish it and stumble back to my hotel which is very close.

I have a couple hours of free time in the morning before a car is to pick me up. The hired car is a last minute decision. My original travel plans to get to kotor Montenegro had to be reworked because the bus I thought I could take was not running or it was too early in the season to take that route. The only alternative is booking a bus ticket to Dubrovnik and then another in Kotor. Basically adding 4 plus additional hours to my travel. I booked those tickets but was not excited about the journey, especially having my passport stamped in a Schengen country 3 days early (research schengen visas to understand why that would be annoying for a multi-month tour of Europe). When the lady at the front desk at the hotel suggested the private driver option (costing 150 euros) I took it. It isn’t cheap but it is worth every penny to arrive in comfort, directly to the country i am heading to at 3.2 hours versus up to 9 hours.

Almost booked this itinerary

Before I leave town I walk around. I finally see a bridge jumper….it’s not a scam.

Eventually Cafe de Alma opens and I get a proper lesson in how to drink Bosnian coffee.

Finally I get one last wine and enjoy the view. I really enjoy my time in Mostar. I will return some day.

Milford Sound to Queenstown

View from Tutoko Suspension Bridge

I finished my boat tour of Milford Sound by mid-day today. I only planned one night in the area but regretted that decision when I saw the vast number of walking tracks in the area.

I am heading to Queenstown now. No time scheduled for hikes but I do plan on making scenic stops along the way.

First I stop by the campsite in Milford Sound to get the perishables out of the refrigerator. Luckily they are still there.

Tutoko Suspension Bridge

My first stop is at the Tutoko bridge, the last remaining steel suspension bridge on the Milford Road. It is a beautiful day so there are beautiful views from the bridge.

The Chasm

The next stop is to see the Chasm, a series of waterfalls that form a deep and interesting chasm in the rocks. It is beautiful to see but hard to capture by photo.

Chasm car park

Hundred Falls and valley area before Homer Tunnel

On the approach into Milford Sound I was so nervous and preoccupied with the steep and tight curves after leaving the tunnel I didn’t really take the time to stop and appreciate the area. On my return trip I am sure to stop and take some pictures. When it comes to Milford Sound the journey is really the destination. It is hard to resist all the scenic stops. This is probably why the drive is so long.

Homer Tunnel

I have reached the tunnel again. This time with confidence! Unfortunately I am held up by the traffic light quite a while. It is a one-way tunnel and we must wait.

More stops along the way…..

I stop at the recommended Braken Hall in Mossburn for meat pies. It seems like the store might be closing soon. It is nice to get a little lunch break during my drive. I am much closer to Queenstown now.

Devil’s Staircase Lookout Point

A final scenic stop of the day is to the Devil’s Staircase lookout. It is a magnificent view of a big lake, over a part of Lake Wakatipu.

Finally I arrive in Queenstown and check into the holiday park. It is a funky holiday park. It isn’t cheap but is centrally located for easy access to the town area.


Queenstown Holiday Park & Motels Creeksyde

The campsite is nice enough. I retire early for the night.