Gdansk: Teutonic Adventures

I am not sure why I feel like I’ve been here forever when I really only have been here a couple days. I think it is because I am a the last stop my trip and I am cold all the time. Temperature wise I should be in heaven because I usually thrive in these temperatures but the wind in this port side city makes things much colder. When then the sun is out things are good but it gets awfully cold in the shade. I am trying not to complain because when I get back home it will be unbearably hot. Anyway I am here being Goldilocks lately – when you are uncomfortable you are uncomfortable.

Today I visit the largest brick castle in world. First constructed in the 13th century, Malbork Castle was built by Teutonic order is to spread Christian faith. The Teutonic order was a group of Catholic but mostly German knights. Malbork castle was never actually never captured but only changed hands because it was sold to Polish King Casimir IV during the thirteen years war.

Medieval toliet means higher standards of hygiene

There is a small amber museum in the castle grounds. Amber became very prominent in the Baltic region. It comes from petrified wood. Each piece is distinct and sometimes has bugs, twigs or leaves trapped inside. Amber means burning stone. It is thought that beads have medicinal purposes like protect from sore throat. The Teutonic knights really wanted the amber.

Another part of the museum had different types of weapons collected.

The medieval church reconstruction was completed in 2016

Not wanting to take the slower train (an hour ride) I take the intercity train that is thirty minute ride but wait 45 minutes for it because it only runs once a hour (make it make sense). The intercity train is way more expensive but I decide to be bougie today. During my expensive thirty minute train ride ($26 USD) I get a free snack and two drinks included with my fair. It’s actually embarrassing when the steward comes to me to take my order since I don’t even have enough time to consume them. I order the honey cake which is served on a proper plate. I take the water bottle and unopened soda to hold for later. Others on the train are probably coming from far away like Warsaw or something so perhaps they already got their embarrassing honey cake hours ago. Anyway this is why I carry zip lock bags. After taking a couple bites I shove my cake in the bag and put it in my purse for later. I am on a pierogi mission for lunch.

In Gdansk apparently there is a Pierogi culture. It is not a quick meal. Everywhere I went there were long lines and once seated it can take 45 min to one hour once you sit down for pierogi. Pierogi making is labor intensive thus why many Polish order them out instead of making them at home.

The restaurant I get a table for is Mandu. It is highly rated. I did wait for about 30 minutes but the line got much longer as I waited. Mandu has many interesting combos; these are the times I hate dining alone because I want to try it all. I end up ordering buckwheat & potato boar dumplings, borscht, and a sweet pierogi. With some to-go boxes I snack on leftover pierogi later.

After pierogi belly I walk around town. I end up on Mariacka street once again. I would like to purchase something amber to take home but I have a terrible time picking out something I like, especially when its pricey and I really don’t know how to tell if something is authentic or not.

Ulica Mariacka

I finish the night at a circus themed cocktail bar with friendly bartenders who give me good advice about places to visit during the rest of my stay. They serve fun drinks too.

Krakow last hours

Wawel Cathedral

Originally I was going to do a day trip to the mountains today but after getting there and trying to figure out the logistics it didn’t seem like I’d have much time to hike, the activity I really want to do. Tatra does have a tourist area but it seemed mostly shopping which isn’t my thing. People also recommend the thermal baths but I can take or leave those. If I couldn’t do a proper hike I didn’t see the justification to spend all that time commuting for just a view. I think when I return to Poland I’ll do at least two nights there and schedule a proper hike. Instead it is laundry this morning.

Fun little van
My healthy breakfast

I decide to go back up to Wawel castle today but purchased tickets to the Wawel underground. Here one can find remains of old churches and pieces of the castle that’s been destroyed and raided on the past (most famously by the Swedes). The main castle is probably a pretty impressive museum but I don’t have it in me to tour another castle today. My ticket includes two old churches, a museum of columns, facades, and restoration work in general, and also access to the royal gardens where I am loving springtime. 

I also buy a ticket to Wawel cathedral because it is said to have some famous people buried there. During the tour I end up in a bell tower (I didn’t do audio tour so I barely know what is going on). No pictures allowed in church but I do snap a couple in the tower. The famous people are mainly polish kings and queens many most in USA have never heard of but I was familiar with a couple because I did about ten episodes of a polish history podcast prior to this trip. Also Chopin (except his heart…more on that in Warsaw) and a former polish president is here. 

Royal Gardens at Wawel

Pierogi Time

I need a snack so it’s time for pierogi. This time I do a mix of ruskie (potato and cheese) and spinach and feta and a small local restaurant.

I’m exhausted from the drinks last night (my courage potion might have just given me the courage to not drink again). – just kidding I am drinking a wine at a cafe as I type this. By the way my wine is costing me about $3.20 USD.  I relax for a couple hours before dinner at a cafe and then go Kazimierz for dinner and after dinner drinks. I stop at Schindlers Passage one last time to see it without crowds.

Tonight I have reservations at a Alice in wonderland slash mystical speakeasy cocktail bar. The drinks are an interesting combination that correspond to the elements and if you tell them what you like they can custom make something for you; I ordered off the menu of the exiting choices. 

For the most part I did everything wanted to, main exception the Czartoryski Museum. I waited too long to commit to a visit time and tickets are booked up a week in advance. There is no more go with the flow travel in Europe anymore. If there is something you want to really see you must book in advance, sometimes months).

The reader will get a kick out of learning that the “far away” train station in my arrival post is actually the main station next to my hotel. I am here now and it is exactly as I remember – AND I only walked about 20 minutes to get here. I don’t know why google told me I had over an hour to walk but I can only explain that it was a google failure. It’s odd though because I’ve had google failures in many cities but my days here it has worked perfectly except from my arrival at the train station (it couldn’t possibly be my error?!?).

Anyway I am now heading to Wroclaw. 

It’s a holiday today (constitution day) and the train is busy with lots of seat confusion.  Me claiming my seat caused a cascading effect where one girl got booted from our car because she didn’t have a confirmed reservation. Note to self – make sure I have confirmed seat reservations on all my legs in the future if I travel from country to country.