Alaska Cruise: Skagway and Yukon

We have arrived in Skagway. I affectionately call this the poor man’s port. Not that it’s all that bad per se but part of the port was damaged years ago in a landslide and it cannot safely disembark all the ships it needs to anymore. If you are one of the unlucky ships you have to travel by tender to the port, which we had to do. Honestly it wasn’t all that bad of a journey – we just weren’t getting the first class services we got at the other ports.

Today we are going to the Yukon and White Pass. We take a bus on the way to Canada and we take the scenic train ride on the way back. Once again we are blessed with amazing weather so it turns out to be a lovely day.

We have a hour or so until our tour meets so we walk into town to browse and get some coffee. It is early and not many places are open yet. It seems like it might be a little more lively in a couple hours.

Our bus ride to the Yukon goes almost in parallel to the train we will take later; we see it occasionally along the way. The view from the bus is amazing but we do stop briefly along the way for some great views.

We also see sand dunes along the way!

We finally get to the Yukon, specifically Wild Adventure Yukon where we have some free time. There are animals to see or you can participate in dog sledding. Me being weird about animals used as entertainment skip the dog sledding but after spending some time watching the dogs ramp up for the sledding I realize that they really enjoy the work. When the dogs sense the sledding is about to begin they bark and jump excitedly. It was sad when one group of dogs start howling in sadness when they realize it is not their turn to go out. If I had the opportunity again I might actually try dog sledding.

We leave the Yukon on our way to the rail station to take the famous train ride. We have one last stop at Carcross where there is some shopping and an adorable general store.

We finally board the train for our scenic ride back to Skagway.

It’s been a long day so we return straight back to the ship. I try to stay up and have a little night fun but we have an early start tomorrow so it’s off to bed.

Arrived in Salzburg

Hotel view in Salzburg

After a couple hour bus ride I am in Austria. I arrive first in Salzburg, the former roman settlement run by an archdiocese. It flourished in salt mining riches and at some point was part of Bavaria. Eventually Salzburg was annexed into Austria where it remains today.

Salzburg is also the birthplace of Mozart and where he spent his early years before he wandered off to Vienna to make money. 

But what many from the USA know this city for is from a little musical called Sound of Music that was filmed here. The musical was a childhood staple and is the focus of a tour I attend (more on that later).

Salzburg Cathedral

I am a week too early for the Salzburg music festival which is disappointing or fortunate depending on the way you look at it. I think it would be neat to attend some performances but the crowds would get on my nerves.

I book a boutique hotel from my credit card points and I have been having good luck when I do that lately. I am staying at a really nice hotel on the river in a room overlooking the river and fortress.

I make dinner plans at a trendy restaurant that just happens to be the oldest restaurant in Europe called St. Peter Stiftskulinarium. But before that I explore the area a little and pop in some churches.

Stiftskirche St. Peter (St Peter’s Abbey)

I am dinning outside today but apparently there are historic rooms you can dine in. I could not figure out how to get reservations specifically in those rooms. Dining outdoors is nice but it could be any trendy restaurant in any city. The steak I ordered is slightly overlooked. I am so used to restaurants undercooking my steak I wasn’t expecting this one. I guess order steaks rare if you dine here. The menu has many other interesting dishes as well but I have my heart set on some red meat for some reason. I guess its been a while since I’ve had a steak.

After dinner it is still early so I walk around town and end up in the cemetary of St Peters church. It is quiet and calm due to the tour groups gone for the day and it is probably one of the most beautiful, but small, cemeteries I have ever seen.

Mozart’s birthplace

Spent some time browsing on Getreidegasse. I admire the clothing styles and store signage.

I walk along the river and enjoy the sunset.

Finally I enjoy the evening view from my hotel room. I think I’m really going to like Salzburg.

Norway: Beautiful Views and Long drives

Trollstigen (the trolls ladder)

After breakfast I head out early to my longest day of driving. I first have to take a ferry and then I am on my way to Trollstigen, a scenic driving road in Norway.

Geirangerfjord

Some last pictures of the fjord at Ørnevegen (scenic spot) before I head on the ferry.

The road is already starting to get scenic before I even get to the real curvy part. We are obviously on some sort of peak. It is white and beautiful. I enjoy the scenery and take a few pictures before I move on to the Trollstigen viewpoint.

Not too far away is an observation area of the famous pass. I admire all the curves and try to get up the courage to start my journey. The land in the distance is so green and vast. It is very beautiful to see.

I start the ride down. Interestingly enough Cheap Trick’s Surrender plays while I am driving down Trollistigan. I am surrendering to the road one can say. Luckily I am in a smaller car and I am patient with the buses who need to stop frequently and take turns navigating through narrow spots. These drivers are skilled to do this all the time. I stop at the bottom and stand in line to take a photo with the troll sign that marks the journey – unfortunately I arrive at the parking lot just after a tour bus arrives so I have to wait forever patiently for my turn.

Now I am on my way to Lom and then Sognefjellet, a historic pass road. I make a pit stop to take some roadside troll pictures. I love these trolls!

Then I get my first gas station hotdog and find a real diet Coke. Apparently gas station hot dogs are a popular route for road trippers because you don’t really see many restaurants or fast food options available in this part of Norway. My hotdog isn’t impressive but keeps the hunger away for now. Also this is the first real Diet Coke I’ve seen in months (or coke light the equivalent). It seems like parts of Europe I’ve visited lately only carry regular coke or Coke Zero and I dislike Splenda and Stevia equally. When I want something other than coffee or water I’ve been splurging on regular cokes and I really don’t like consuming that much sugar on the regular.

I am starting to regret that stop for the hotdog because between that and a 30 minute road closure I miss the Lom Stave church visit by 5 minutes. I am too late to enter but smell the wood and smokey smell from the outside. It would have been cool to see the inside but this is over two hours from my hotel tonight so it won’t be feasible tomorrow.

I go in the direction of my hotel tonight taking another historic route: Sognefjellsvegen – The National Tourist Route. Beautiful vistas, snow topped mountains. I see old grave sights and cross country skiers. So many lovely vistas I have seen in one day alone.

Mountain range in the distance

But alas I am exhausted and happy when I get to my hotel for the night in the town of Laegrid. It is still bright as can be but after such a long day I just want to rest after a lackluster pizza. Tomorrow I am going to attempt to visit another stave church nearby plus I have a another long day of driving.

Norway: Geirangerfjorden

Geirangerfjorden

The next couple days are essentially spent in the car. I have planned a couple stops in the middle of the fjords in central Norway and everything is a long drive to get there.

I fly from Stavanger to Oslo then I am suppposed to catch a flight to Alesund. There are two alesund flights at the same time but I don’t realize it and see the gate number for the first one that catches my eye; the gate is across the airport a couple terminals over from where I land. The flight in question starts boarding and I realize it must be the wrong flight because the flight number doesn’t match ; but really what alerts me is the star alliance announcement because I didn’t think I was on a star alliance flight. I am waiting at the wrong flight. I have to run back across the airport and I’m sure I’ve missed my flight. While I am running my metal water bottle crashes on the tile floor and it seems like the loudest thing I’ve ever heard. Luckily the previous flight is still exiting the plane. I feel like in most cases the gate would already be closed and I’d have to book another flight. Sure got my cardio in this morning. Way to elevate that heart rate.

I fly into Alesund. My flight is very empty so I move to the window seat in my row to get the great view.

The airport is small and it takes no time at all to get my bag and get out the door. I pick up my rental car which of course is another brand new vehicle I am going to worry about hurting. It is bigger than I like but hopefully it takes the mountain pass roads well. As far as driving I am finding Norwegian drivers (or tourists here) to be polite and conscientious drivers. Despite the tight roads it seems safe enough. I do see one camper van take out part of another camper van’s mirror in a tight spot.

Another brand new car

There are lots of tunnels at the beginning of my drive and one ferry before I reach the ferry I have planned in advance, the Geirangerfjord ferry ride – a must do if you are in the region.

My ticket is for the 3:30 PM Geirangerford ferry in Hellyst which is a good thing because I arrive just as the 12:30 PM ferry is leaving. I want to make sure my ticket is accurate and I can leave my car to get lunch but the one younger man working the car line seems flustered and overwhelmed. It seems there is confusion over tickets and quite a few ended up missing their 12:30 PM ferry so he is bombarded with those people as well as those who have arrived for the next ferry without tickets yet. I patiently wait and finally get his attention to find out my ticket is accurate and where to place my car to wait. I head off to look for food. It seems like there is only one open restaurant in this town and seems to be pizza only. I visit the local supermarket instead and get some berries and ingredients for a do it yourself sandwich. Picnic tables along the water are perfect to watch boats and birds while I eat my lunch. I take a short walk around the town to visit the water fall and a historic bathing house. There is still more time to wait so I go back to my car to read and try to nap.

Eventually the ferry arrives and we drive onboard. This ride is over an hour so after you park below it is essential to go upstairs and get a view of the fjords. It is supposed to be one of the most scenic ferry rides and it is. Some sights are pointed out on the way and one of them is the seven sisters waterfall.

I drive off the ferry in Geiranger and there is a cute tourist town by the water. My only concern at this point is checking into my hotel though so I drive up the hill in that direction. There are many steep switchbacks to get to the hotel and with each one it is becoming more apparent that my plan of heading into town for dinner is not going to happen because I will not have the energy to walk back up tonight. You need to be in fantastic shape to even be a tourist in Norway it seems. Luckily the hotel has a restaurant. The menu is limited but I decide to treat myself to a steak. Before dinner I admire the views of the town from above.

I wish I had planned two nights in Geiranger so I could have had a day to relax in town. I am too tired tonight to make the trip down to town and I have too much driving to do tomorrow to add on a visit to town in the morning, Maybe I will return sometime in the future.

Vršič Pass and Piran

Julian Alps

I am still in northern Slovenia. Today I pack up and drive out to the Vršič pass. Located in the northwest corner of Slovenia the pass is a switchback road through the Julian alps and Triglav National Park. It is only open for driving part of the year when the weather allows. Besides the beautiful views of the mountains I also get to enjoy an introduction to the Soča Valley. It takes about fifty hairpin turns to complete the pass.

I take the route beginning at Kranjska Gora first stopping at a rock bed along a stream that provided great views of the mountains.

Vršič Pass, Julian Alps

As I am driving up the pass I discover how popular this pass is for cyclists. I pass by many struggling to get uphill, even some walking their bikes up the tough parts when they lose momentum. I know some people really like this but I would be miserably uncomfortable and unable to enjoy the scenery if I chose this method of traveling. I am happy biking on flat paths but give me a car for all the hard stuff.

One of the most popular stops on the pass is the Russian Chapel, a chapel dedicated to the Russians who were prisoners of WWI by the Austrians and were used build the roads. Many were killed by an avalanche while working.

Russian Chapel

I stop at a meadow with lovely views of bright green trees and the snow capped mountains in the background. This stop, Prisank mountain viewpoint, provides great views of the mountains.

I get a little closer to the mountain range and see things like the Heathen Maiden or the face in the mountain (Ajdovska Deklica).

There is livestock around to stop and look at.

I get to the top at the Vršič Pass high point or the Postman’s Lodge.

I drive down into the Soča valley blasting Sonic Youth’s Dirty Boots on the speakers inside the car.

I had wanted to stop at a dairy store near Bovec at the end of the pass – Soca Valley Dairy and Cheese Museum – but it is still closed another week or so until season starts. I pick up a bar of chocolate from the grocery store across the street instead.

Since my next stop is a couple hours away I decide to head back on the road south toward the city of Piran. Piran exists in a little slither of Slovenia that exists on the coast in a region called Istria. South of Slovenian Istria is Croatia and north of the area is Italy. The area is know for its warm temperatures, wine, and truffles.

Because I told the rental car place that I would not be crossing borders I end up taking the very long route to Piran to avoid entering into Italy. It turns out to be a nice drive where I drive through small vineyards with picturesque churches in the background….why didn’t I stop more for pictures? I also drive by the largest stone arch railroad bridge in the world. Unfortunately there is no where I can safely stop for pictures; I glance at it for a moment while I drive by.

Regional vineyards
Daily drive to Piran

Still many more back roads and I finally get to the town of Piran. I am told I can bring my car into the city center to drop my bags and my hotel will give me a card for a nearby parking garage. I can’t find somewhere to safely park the car except far away. I park in paid lot and carry my bag ten minutes to the hotel. If this is close parking I can’t wait to see where the satellite parking is.

I get my key card and map to the garage. I thought the hotel owner mentioned the garage I saw driving in but turns out its another garage. I eventually find the garage and I zig zag my car down four or five very narrow floors eyeing the narrow spots I pass on the way down. This is where the car is going to get banged up. I sure hope my credit card insurance is legit because I am about to test it. I find a spot where I can get close to a pole to lesson the chance of a door nick. I’ll have fun trying to get out of this tight space tomorrow. I get a few feet away from when I am not sure if I actually locked the car. Hopefully its one of those cars that auto lock because I am not going back down there right now. Google says its a 12 minute walk but it takes me more like 20 and that’s all downhill. I need to schedule 30 minutes for this walk to the car tomorrow when I leave for my outing.

I check into my room and settle a bit before exploring town. More on that later.