Arrived in Warsaw

It’s a long train ride from Wroclaw to Warsaw but somehow it doesn’t seem too bad.

On the way to the train station I detour to see the art installation “The Passage” or Monument of the Anonymous Passersby. It is to represent the shrinking of life under martial law when communism took root in Poland.

The train ride to Warsaw is comfortable but it appears we are behind schedule but I don’t realize it at the time. I do the thing I thought I did in Krakow – I actually get off at the wrong station. Basically I got off at a station too early because I was concerned more with time versus where I actually was. When my phone said 55 minute walk I didn’t believe it at first because it was wrong before. Eventually I discover that I am indeed a 55 minute walk from my lodging and instead of trying to find a train that will take me one more stop (and possibly pay again) I start the 15 minute walk to the nearest bus station. From there it is another 10 minutes or so by bus. I ride by the correct train station. Finally it another 10-15 minutes walk to my cute studio apartment that I have rented for the next few days. I have a balcony but I fear it might be too cold to actually use it. I am not complaining about the cooler weather (yet) because I get hot easily with all the walking I do.

Oh look. My actual stop as I pass by on bus

I unload and do a trip to the grocery store to self cater so I can eat out slightly less these next few days. I can’t do much because the kitchen supplies I have are limited but I can do a girl dinner/breakfast here and there with some fancy meats and cheeses and fresh bread. Also I don’t have to wait for coffee shops to open in the morning for my morning coffee.

After shopping I walk down to the food hall nearby and walk by lots of cute eateries in the area, a good number of them vegan (vegan sushi or whatever else you like).

Hala Koszyki is a food hall in a historic building and has many different food choices. Since I am doing another polish food tour in a couple days I decide to do something different and get some oysters and mussels. Most food is cheaper here but oysters are still about the same I would pay in the USA.

After dinner I wander down to the Palace of Culture and Science. It is closed for the day but I may attend later in the week, there is supposed to be a great view from the top. There is construction around the building as it appears they are tearing up the walkways around to make nice sitting areas. I like how the building lights up at night.

After a bit more exploring of the neighborhood I head back. Travel days always exhaust me and I want to unwind for the evening. I have another busy day planned tomorrow with museums and an afternoon walking tour.

End of Prague visit

I signed up for a wine tour today to try some wines from the Czech Republic. I enjoy trying local wines when I can. The tour ends up being more of a walking tour with a little wine and snacks at the end. It is me and one family of four from the USA on this tour.

Our guide points out some Art Nouveau architecture, the famous upside horse in a mall, and a hidden park (Frantiskanska) – most of it I had already found on my own earlier in the day but its nice to learn the history behind it all. The upside down horse, Statue of King Wenceslas riding an upside-down dead horse by David Černý, is in the same shopping center where I attended a movie the other night. In the same complex is the former Paternoster Lift, an elevator that doesn’t stop or slow down. To ride this elevator one would have to time it just right to jump on. Unfortunately they are all closed to the public now because of safety.

Owl traffic signal. If the owl is upright there is vacancy for horses, no vacancy if turned down.

Prague Free walking tour

In the morning I have another walking tour, this time the free one. It is on this tour I see the rotating Kafka for the third time. He isn’t rotating this time but I think I’ve seen it enough. I do see another Kafka though; another Cerny work.

Astronomical clock and old town hall, only building partially destroyed in war

Rococo facades

Our guide also takes through the Jewish quarter and tells us the terrible history of the Jews in Prague. There are very few Jewish people left in town to this day due to the atrocities during WWII. This town was not spared in the horrors except it is one of few places that wasn’t bombed, rumor is Hitler had a soft spot for Czech Republic or had it in mind as his retirement country. Who knows.

Guide hates this building’s architecture

After the tour I rush down to Náplavka park for their Saturday market. I’ve been to so many markets now that things rarely impress me anymore but it is still a nice market. Some of the booths are on boats on the water. I note the cafes right on the river. It’s just a very hot day so I grab a wrap and a strudel and desperately try to find a shaded spot to eat.

I commute up the hill to the Strahov monastery and associated brewery. The original plan is to tour the monastery and then try some of their beers. The heat has zapped all my energy. All I have in me is to try one beer. I later regret cutting my visit short when I realize I miss out on seeing a historical library – I love old libraries. I run back to my hotel to rest until dinner, hoping going back out later will be cooler.

My plan for the evening is to get dinner and then see the town lit up. I choose pizza for the night because I am tired of Czech food. The restaurant has no AC so it is a very uncomfortable meal. I am actually excited to go back outside since the sun is setting. I don’t stay out too late but I do see the city awaken for the evening.

The next day is a mostly work day. I have to go across town to do laundry but the laundry place is probably the nicest I have seen in a while. I order fancy coffee nearby while I wait. I love this coffee house.

Later I try some open face sandwiches and get a cocktail at an Anonymous themed bar. I had tried to book a massage at the Czech beer spa attached to my hotel where I would soak in a beer tub but they cancel on me because they are having equipment malfunction. The experience wasn’t high on my list but I regret a little that I didn’t try the spa earlier.

I leave early tomorrow to visit another city in the Czech Republic.

I like Prague but I’d come back during a shoulder season for less crowds and cooler temps. And while my hotel was generally clean and had AC, the moisture in the room messed with my sinuses so I felt like I was sick for two days-even taking cold medicine. I do worry at times that I will get sick but 9 times out of 10 as soon as I change hotels I am miraculously better. It becomes more and more apparent that I need to start staying in nicer hotels unless I want to feel terrible during my travels.

Next up Český Krumlov.

Berlin Happenings

Even though I have tickets to other museums on museum island I decide to take the tram to visit MarktHalle Neun instead eat my way around the market. I wander around admiring the market and trying some food and drink.

After walking across the historic Oberbaum Bridge I end up at East Side Gallery, known for its large outdoor art exhibit on the east side pieces of the Berlin Wall that are designated for art. The exhibit stretches far and is quite busy. I don’t snap pictures of the most famous pieces because the crowds are too thick around them. You can google East Side Galllery to see the famous wall pieces.

The next morning my allergies are pretty bad and I want to just stay in for the day but I realize this is my last chance to see one of the museums I’ve wanted to visit – Hamburger Bahnhof, a modern art museum in an old train station. I can’t actually show a picture of the piece of the museum that looks like a train station because there is a modern art installation there with many “no photo” signs.

One exhibit is from an Algerian woman who describes her highly curated activist life during the 60’s and 70’s in Algeria, France and Italy. There are film canisters, a film set, a bar room where you can watch live tango, and an actual short film you can watch. It is highly immersive and quite interesting.

It’s Sunday so I head over to the flea market at Mauerpark. The market is huge with many kiosks selling pretty much everything. I almost get some food but the food concessions are so crowded I decide to wait for dinner instead. As I leave the market the nearby park area is bustling with street performers. I soak up the energy and watch a few acts as well as a drum group.

I also walk through the nearby neighborhood of Prenzlauer Berg. It’s a nice area I’d like to come back to.

Too tired to walk to the original restaurant I had picked for dinner I visit the famous Prater Garden instead. I am once again disappointed; I do not think beer garden food is my cup of tea.

One the way back I stop at a David Hasselhoff museum (more like a wall than a museum) and an eclectic cafe where I enjoy a wine outdoors on this Sunday evening.

The next morning my goal is to have döner kebab. I’ve been told there is nothing like the döner you can get in Berlin. Of Turkish origin, German puts its own spin on the sandwich. I will not forget this and the bread its served on.

Earlier in my Berlin visit I visited the Pergamon Panorama. Today I visit another one by the same artist that shows the Berlin Wall. Yadegar Asisi’s art is projected on a 360° screen (Die Mauer). The wall shows life on both sides of the wall during the time that it existed. The exhibit uses sounds and light to take you through day and night.

I wandered the shopping street of Friedrichstraße where there are protesters, some have demonstrations and some are glued to the ground. I believe they are protesting about climate change. They are definitely disrupting business but the police seem to act calm in their presence.

I discover a cute part of town I wish I visited earlier because most things are closed. Nikolaiviertel has colorful buildings and some shops and restaurants. I enjoy some asparagus soup and an apple strudel near the water. I soon head back toward my hotel. Tomorrow I travel to Dresden.

Miscellaneous images from around town.

More Budapest

Originally I was going to visit thermal baths this morning (Budapest is well known for their thermal baths) but I decide to skip since I am not in the mood today. It turns out to be a good decision because even though I read it doesn’t get crowded on weekdays I speak to someone later who actually attended this morning and she says it was too crowded.

Instead I find a stand for coffee with non-dairy milk (a luxury while traveling) and stop at that shakshouka restaurant.

I first visit the House of Terror Museum – a museum dedicated to the fascist and communist regimes. I always knew Hungary was associated with Eastern Europe but I didn’t fully understand what life was like under the nazis and later Soviet Union. The audio tour and exhibits thoroughly explained the history. It’s a very interactive museum. I recommend it. In the basement is a replica of prison cells used to torture prisoners.

Its still early in the day but late enough that I can visit my first ruin bar in town. Budapest is famous for its ruin bars or creative bars built in old run down buildings. I order a large apperol spritz in the most famous ruin bar Szimpla Kert. I am solo and admit it would be more fun if I had a companion with me but I still think it is pretty cool inside. I must drag some friends here another time.

For lunch I try the Langos Burger and another Apperol Spritz at a nearby food cart market.

I rest up for a couple hours because I have a prosecco cruise booked for this evening on the Danube. I try to time the cruise so I can see the lights come on in the city for the evening and sunset view. It is busy so I end up sharing my table with a couple from Australia that I learn met on their travels. The cruise has very generous refills of prosecco. I try to drink water to offset but I have a feeling I will be hurting tomorrow.

The cruise is beautiful and fun but with that fun comes big regrets. I lose the entire next day due to Prosecco. I spend most of the day resting and binge watching tv shows while I recover. I am a fan of having days “off” of traveling here and there but I really dislike losing days to hangovers. Just a warning for another tempted by a sunset Prosecco cruise – pace yourself.

After my recovery day I decide to have a casual day of sightseeing and visit the Central Market Hall to browse around. I never can resist a large market.

I decide to eat at the market and instead of ordering something sensible I order plate of fried meats and it is way too much food. I can only eat a little of it. It’s not really my favorite so far. I do like the strudels I pick up for later.

I walk back to the area closer to my apartment.

Later in the day I attend a wine tasting where I try some Hungarian wines, some of them sweet. I also try cheeses and meats. I learn about mangalica – a fat fluffy Hungarian pig.

One lady from the tasting is in town for business from the USA. I used to live in same city she is from so we talked about the city and other things. We continue the conversation to another ruin bar I’ve been wanting to check out called Csendes Létterem. We enjoy nice conversation and more drinks in a funky environment.

My trip to Budapest is basically over at this point since I have to go back and pack. It is a nice visit but I am mad at myself for losing a day due to Prosecco. I feel like I am getting too old to keep making those bad decisions. As a result I have added this city to the list of places to visit again. I think I wouldn’t mind just chilling in the area for a week or two sometime when I am not rushed. You have surprised me Budapest.

The next morning I find the airport bus after a ten minute walk. The airport is so efficient I think I didn’t need to get here two hours early but I guess always better safe than sorry. While at the airport I do some browsing at the Hungary airport duty free store. I see cigarette cartons with very graphic pictures on box: Lung cancer pics, mouth cancer pics and pictures babies harmed by smoking. They must have pretty strict regulations here.

Not one person has asked to see my id on my flights today. The EU has a very efficient and electronic system of doing border checks. I am heading to Norway now. See ya Hungary.

Last Day in Sarajevo

Today is my last day in Sarajevo. My check out is 10:00 am so I am getting a later start this morning while I pack up. I snack on my leftover cheese and bread. Last night I remembered to carry my ziplock with me so I can have what I call purse cheese – a term I coined because I love ordering cheese plates but as a solo traveler it is too much dang cheese for one person. So I am not wasting I try to save some it to enjoy later if the temperature allows or I have a refrigerator in my room. I pack up and put my bags in the lobby to explore what I may have missed.

I had potato burek yesterday and today I try the one with meat. I realize it is a mistake because not being hungry since I already had morning cheese. They give me way too much burek even though I stress I want the small portion. Also it is very greasy. I throw a big amount of it away because I don’t think it will keep well while I explore town due to the excessive grease.

I wander around and see some things I missed previously.

I stop by the market. It doesn’t seem to be a busy day today. Also I don’t see booths available to sample local cheeses like I’ve read online. I wonder if COVID took this industry out?

I walk by the eternal flame of Sarajevo for the victims of the Second World War.

I visit a highly recommended Gallery 11/07/95 and I dont regret it. The museum is a display of photographs from mostly one photographer of the time of the war in the 1990’s. The first exhibit is the photographs of those brutally murdered in the massacre of Srebrenica in July 1995. These photos and the photos of the aftermath paint a clear picture of the horrors that happened. The audio guide is essential for this tour. After there is some Sarajevo advertisements and finally a film at the end called Miss Sarajevo. I took the 30 minutes to watch the documentary. It is a very powerful documentary that focuses mostly on the school kids and students during the war of the early 1990’s in Sarajevo, set to powerful music of U2. It made me emotional because I was finishing high school and starting college at the time of this conflict. I couldn’t imagine having to dodge bullets from snipers while trying to attend college classes. We see students doing just that in this movie. If you have a chance to watch it online then do so.

This is hard to see. Basically the UN failed this town.

Miss Sarajevo, only partially based on a beauty pageant.

The museum is so emotional I don’t have it in me to visit another museum today and learn about more atrocities. I go have an afternoon wine instead. I am still not hungry but I know with my train ride it will be a while before I can eat later so I stop to get cevapi once more. Again it is very good but very filling.

I pick up my bags and head to the train station. I assume the train station was a very nice place for the 1984 Sarajevo Olympics but unfortunately it has not seemed to be renovated since. The government has a hard time with infrastructure projects post war. While waiting for my train I get in trouble for taking a picture inside. I joke that the reason no photos are allowed because they don’t want the world to know they haven’t updated the train station since the Yugoslavian era.

Despite the shaky infrastructure I am sad to leave Sarajevo. I am certain I could have spent another 3 days here with just exploring local museums and other day trips. I must return some day.

Now I head off on the scenic ride to Konjic. The train ride from Sarajevo to Mostar is supposed to be one of the top train rides in Europe. (I stop half way in Konjic). Unfortunately I choose the wrong side of the train. The sun is setting on my side and between the sun blocking and the reflecting on the dirty window I don’t see as much. It is very beautiful on the other side of the train. So I say if you take the ride in the morning sit on the right and for afternoon sit on the left (facing the direction of travel).

I arrive in Konjic to my apartment rental. I can tell already I should not have done an overnight here (I almost eliminated this as an overnight and changed my mind when hotel alterations were challenging). It is slow season here and many things seem to be closed. It is cold out and no one wants to be out I guess. Thank goodness I am still full from earlier because I cannot find any restaurants that are catching my eye.