Meknès and Volubilis

Volubilis

Today is an early start. We are traveling three hours to two UNESCO sites.

We first visit Meknès, an imperial capital of the 17th century. We visit a mausoleum, walk around and visit a market. We were supposed to visit a museum of music but it is closed the day we are here.

The Mausoleum of Moulay Isma’il is a former kasbah turned into a mausoleum for a former sultan.

We drive forty-five minutes away from Meknes where we visit the Roman city of Volubilis. This impressive city was destroyed by the same major earthquake that destroyed Lisbon in 1755. It is now being excavated and restored. We discover a large ancient city with some impressive mosaics.

We next stop at a Women’s collective that is sponsored by our tour group and they serve us lunch and tea.

A short drive later we are at Fes for the evening. Since we had such a late lunch we decide to skip dinner and have a drink with some others in the tour instead. We have a day of sightseeing in Fes tomorrow.

Casablanca day 2

Arab Nations Park


This morning we only plan to be out for a little while to visit a couple places we missed the day before but we end up spending the entire day out before meeting our tour in the evening.

Our first stop is at the old Post Office to view the art deco interior.

Our next stop is at food market at the Central Market where you can see fishmonger, butchers, produce markets, and olive sellers try to sell their inventory. Surrounding the area are food stands where I learn will prepare any fish that you purchase at the market.

We walk by a garment like district where black plastic bags of clothes are delivered in the morning to store front after store front. We watch some get unloaded to add to the daily frocks available for sale. We find ourselves dodging bags of clothes that pile on the sidewalk.

We revisit the Church of Notre Dame of Lourdes to view it since there is now no service. The amazing stain glass windows cast beautiful colors along the sides of the church. 

I light a candle for my mom as I tend to do.

We then plan to walk back to the old Medina to view all the shops but it has us walk through the expensive neighborhood in town. We see the royal palace off in the distance.

We exit the Medina and end up in the old neighborhood. The streets are alive with action and commerce. We are not in a tourist spot right now.

We are hungry though so we turn back around to get a snack at a cafe on the other side of the Medina. The pizza isn’t the best but it is nice to rest after walking all day. We people watch for while.

The city courthouse is not open to visitors but we try to sneak some pictures as close as we can go and are stopped by the guard. The doors are supposed to be very pretty when they are closed.

We also walk by a district full of the smell of grilled meats, the aroma of rotisserie chicken fills the street air. 

We have to meet our tour group in a couple hours so we go back towards our hotel ending up on streets that are new to us. Today we have walked through some many varying parts of town, getting a really good feel of everyday life here even though today is a school holiday.

Our last stop is at the walk around the Arab Nations Park then back to the hotel. 

We meet our group and have a nice dinner getting acquainted. The next few days we will travel all around different parts of the country and learning many things. So far the group and tour guide seem really nice.

Breakfast table

Casablanca

Hassan II Mosque

We have a mostly uneventful flight to Morocco. Flight one is on time and as planned but I slept maybe fifteen minutes the whole time due to a fidgety neighbor that would change positions every couple minutes and startle me out of any sleep I managed. Our second flight was delayed but we were getting to Casablanca so late in the day that it wasn’t going to be a productive sightseeing day anyway.

We have a driver arranged from our tour company so it’s and easy ide to our hotel except he doesn’t have bills to break our larger bills acquired at the airport ATM so he gets a very good tip. We’ve heard it’s often difficult for people to make change for the larger bills (equivalent of a little over $20 USD) so we make it a mission to use grocery stores and such to pawn off big bills as much as possible during our travels.

We checked into our hotel but soon take the elevator to take a quick look at the loud dance club happening on the hotel rooftop. Thinking we’d have a nice view of the city and a nightcap before bed we instead have the elevator open to cigarette smoke, a bouncer, and very loud thumping. We take one look at the crowd and decide sleep is a better option tonight.

Both of us sleep completely through that first night, in fact we could have kept sleeping if we didn’t have a tour scheduled in the morning. That almost never happens. Everything is great about the room except the semi-opaque bathroom walls. I mean there is some privacy but when you are sharing a room with a friend there are bathroom walls that can give you more privacy.

Breakfast at the hotel is satisfying and a great way to start the day. Turns out it is the best breakfast spread of our travels.

We arrive a day early before our scheduled tour in Casablanca because we are so used to having flights delayed or worse that we wanted to make sure we make our official tour that starts in two days. In the morning we book a day tour since our upcoming tour does not include any sightseeing in Casablanca. Casablanca like every city in Morocco started as a nomad city along the trade route that has been governed by many different peoples but became the unique city it is because of the French occupation in the 1900’s. They set out Casablanca to be its crown jewel with all its ornate art deco architecture. It was also a key port city due to its location near the oceans.

Our first stop is at the Hassan II Mosque, a large mosque dedicated to the Moroccan King Hassan II. It is the second largest Mosque in Africa and was completed in 1993. So much detail is given to the interior including the painted parts using natural colorings and cedar wood from the Atlas Mountains. It is built over water as a floating island over the Atlantic Ocean. You can only tour this with a guide and we were luckily because it is quite empty when we toured.

After the tour we drive to Corniche, the waterfront region that usually is happening with poolside fun and outdoor cafes. It is off season so there is not much going on besides families walking along the water. We also stop to get a foggy view of the mosque and watch some fishermen during low tide.

We stop briefly at the Sacred Heart Cathedral which now serves as a function hall and is no longer open to the public.

We stop at the Arab League Park but I realize later we only see a small part of the park. This large oasis in the middle of town was inaugurated in 1919 while the French were still in power.

The we go to the Square of Mohammed V, the place also known as pigeon fountain. The square is surrounded by the opera house, and many French inspired buildings. It is here that I see the art deco post office which I will briefly visit the next day.

We stop at the Church of Notre Dame of Lourdes. There is a service going on so we only look inside quickly and decide to come back tomorrow during our self tour.

We visit the old Medina but we don’t actually shop today but just look around the area. We visit the surrounding neighborhood. Many of the buildings here are run down.

We view the large port under construction. The current king, Mohammed VI, is making an effort to expand the port for tourism and cruise ships and yachts.

Last on our tour we visit a spice place where we learn about spices and some of their other oils and natural remedies. I end up buying a thing or two there. It is before I learn the art of bargaining so I am sure I am getting ripped off.

Our tour is over and our guide recommends a restaurant near our hotel. It isn’t the most amazing meal but at least we are trying some new things. My friend who is mostly vegetarian is finding the vegetarian versions of dishes not as full of flavor as she likes. My chicken dish is bland as well. I am discovering that Moroccan dishes don’t add much salt and leave it to the individual to salt to taste. I am so used to everything everywhere being too salty for me so its definitely a change.

After lunch we visit the old souq. We walk down to the old Medina. We enter in a section that looks like it caters more to locals. Turns out there are very few tourists at all in the market, perhaps because there are no cruise ships in town today. We meet lots of cats along the way.

We stop briefly in an old riad converted into a nice restaurant in the heart of the Medina. It’s where we want to eat later but we never find our way back here on this trip.


We walk down a passage way that is decorated with random items. We watch some kids kick a ball around. It appears to be a pop up art installation in the middle of a residential street.

After our visit to the old Medina we walk under the United Nations Square and do an Art Deco tour of our own. When the French occupied Morocco they wanted to have Casablanca to be its showpiece. There are many cool Art Deco buildings that unfortunately are not all well maintained.

We finish the evening with dinner and a visit to a couple of rooftop bars near our hotel where we have nice views of part of the city.

The next morning we only plan to be out for a little while to visit a couple places we missed the day before but we end up spending the entire day out before meeting our tour in the evening. More on that next.

Arrived in Warsaw

Palace of Culture and Science.

It’s a long train ride from Wroclaw to Warsaw but somehow it doesn’t seem too bad.

On the way to the train station I detour to see the art installation “The Passage” or Monument of the Anonymous Passersby. It is to represent the shrinking of life under martial law when communism took root in Poland.

The train ride to Warsaw is comfortable but it appears we are behind schedule but I don’t realize it at the time. I do the thing I thought I did in Krakow – I actually get off at the wrong station. Basically I got off at a station too early because I was concerned more with time versus where I actually was. When my phone said 55 minute walk I didn’t believe it at first because it was wrong before. Eventually I discover that I am indeed a 55 minute walk from my lodging and instead of trying to find a train that will take me one more stop (and possibly pay again) I start the 15 minute walk to the nearest bus station. From there it is another 10 minutes or so by bus. I ride by the correct train station. Finally it another 10-15 minutes walk to my cute studio apartment that I have rented for the next few days. I have a balcony but I fear it might be too cold to actually use it. I am not complaining about the cooler weather (yet) because I get hot easily with all the walking I do.

Oh look. My actual stop as I pass by on bus

I unload and do a trip to the grocery store to self cater so I can eat out slightly less these next few days. I can’t do much because the kitchen supplies I have are limited but I can do a girl dinner/breakfast here and there with some fancy meats and cheeses and fresh bread. Also I don’t have to wait for coffee shops to open in the morning for my morning coffee.

After shopping I walk down to the food hall nearby and walk by lots of cute eateries in the area, a good number of them vegan (vegan sushi or whatever else you like).

Hala Koszyki is a food hall in a historic building and has many different food choices. Since I am doing another polish food tour in a couple days I decide to do something different and get some oysters and mussels. Most food is cheaper here but oysters are still about the same I would pay in the USA.

After dinner I wander down to the Palace of Culture and Science. It is closed for the day but I may attend later in the week, there is supposed to be a great view from the top. There is construction around the building as it appears they are tearing up the walkways around to make nice sitting areas. I like how the building lights up at night.

After a bit more exploring of the neighborhood I head back. Travel days always exhaust me and I want to unwind for the evening. I have another busy day planned tomorrow with museums and an afternoon walking tour.

End of Prague visit

Upside down horse

I signed up for a wine tour today to try some wines from the Czech Republic. I enjoy trying local wines when I can. The tour ends up being more of a walking tour with a little wine and snacks at the end. It is me and one family of four from the USA on this tour.

Our guide points out some Art Nouveau architecture, the famous upside horse in a mall, and a hidden park (Frantiskanska) – most of it I had already found on my own earlier in the day but its nice to learn the history behind it all. The upside down horse, Statue of King Wenceslas riding an upside-down dead horse by David Černý, is in the same shopping center where I attended a movie the other night. In the same complex is the former Paternoster Lift, an elevator that doesn’t stop or slow down. To ride this elevator one would have to time it just right to jump on. Unfortunately they are all closed to the public now because of safety.

Lift is behind this door
Owl traffic signal. If the owl is upright there is vacancy for horses, no vacancy if turned down.

Prague Free walking tour

In the morning I have another walking tour, this time the free one. It is on this tour I see the rotating Kafka for the third time. He isn’t rotating this time but I think I’ve seen it enough. I do see another Kafka though; another Cerny work.

Martyr statue (Jan Hus)

Rococo facades

Our guide also takes through the Jewish quarter and tells us the terrible history of the Jews in Prague. There are very few Jewish people left in town to this day due to the atrocities during WWII. This town was not spared in the horrors except it is one of few places that wasn’t bombed, rumor is Hitler had a soft spot for Czech Republic or had it in mind as his retirement country. Who knows.

Guide hates this building’s architecture

After the tour I rush down to Náplavka park for their Saturday market. I’ve been to so many markets now that things rarely impress me anymore but it is still a nice market. Some of the booths are on boats on the water. I note the cafes right on the river. It’s just a very hot day so I grab a wrap and a strudel and desperately try to find a shaded spot to eat.

Náplavka Market

I commute up the hill to the Strahov monastery and associated brewery. The original plan is to tour the monastery and then try some of their beers. The heat has zapped all my energy. All I have in me is to try one beer. I later regret cutting my visit short when I realize I miss out on seeing a historical library – I love old libraries. I run back to my hotel to rest until dinner, hoping going back out later will be cooler.

My plan for the evening is to get dinner and then see the town lit up. I choose pizza for the night because I am tired of Czech food. The restaurant has no AC so it is a very uncomfortable meal. I am actually excited to go back outside since the sun is setting. I don’t stay out too late but I do see the city awaken for the evening.

Mortadella pizza, one of my favorites

The next day is a mostly work day. I have to go across town to do laundry but the laundry place is probably the nicest I have seen in a while. I order fancy coffee nearby while I wait. I love this coffee house.

Coffee shop near laundry

Later I try some open face sandwiches and get a cocktail at an Anonymous themed bar. I had tried to book a massage at the Czech beer spa attached to my hotel where I would soak in a beer tub but they cancel on me because they are having equipment malfunction. The experience wasn’t high on my list but I regret a little that I didn’t try the spa earlier.

I leave early tomorrow to visit another city in the Czech Republic.

I like Prague but I’d come back during a shoulder season for less crowds and cooler temps. And while my hotel was generally clean and had AC, the moisture in the room messed with my sinuses so I felt like I was sick for two days-even taking cold medicine. I do worry at times that I will get sick but 9 times out of 10 as soon as I change hotels I am miraculously better. It becomes more and more apparent that I need to start staying in nicer hotels unless I want to feel terrible during my travels.

Next up Český Krumlov.