Warsaw: Big museum day

Lithuanian synagogue reproduction

There are no shortage of museums in Warsaw and I plan to see at least 3 of them today.

First stop is at POLIN, the museum of Jewish history. This museum takes you through the history of the Jewish people in Poland from the beginning. What is different about this museum is even though the holocaust is talked about in detail, it isnโ€™t the sole focus .

Polin in Hebrew means Poland and rest here.

Poland was primarily a pagan land until the Duke Mieszko married a wife that made him switch to Christianity in the 900โ€™s. Now Christianity is the prominent religion.

There were Jewish settlers in Poland as early as 13th century according to coins made by Jewish settlers. According to medieval Christian churches usury was forbidden (lending money) so money lending tended to come from the Jewish communities. This is the early origins of associating Jewish people with banking or money.

I am fascinated by the Danse Macabre (dancing with death) painting. It is all about how death is the equalizer of us all. It is a middle-age allegory.

Early in Polish history Poland was part of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth for a long time. During this time there was a battle that led to a large amount of atrocities against Polish, Jewish people and Roman Catholics. The Cossacks uprising in Ukraine was the first large scale violence in the region.

During the 17th century taverns in Poland were prominently run by the Jewish. There are many reasons but one of which is the assumption that they were not drinkers, thus a logical choice to run these establishments.

There is a very beautiful Lithuanian synagogue reproduction. In the middle is an example of a bema or a platform.

I read many examples of Jewish persecution and stereotypes. At some point they say that Jewish people did human sacrifices in order to justify the prejudice.

Three rulers partitioned Poland and the Polish-Lithuanian commonwealth ceased to exist in the late 1700โ€™s. Under Habsburg, Prussia, and Russian rule polish Jews lost their privileges and freedoms.

Iโ€™m reading some additional wall items and the name Betteljuden catches my eye. Betteljuden is a derogatory cartoon caricature of Jewish beggars in the 1700โ€™s. The name and character likeness is very similar to the popular Beetlejuice character. It is almost like the movie character has anti-Semitic undertones. I will never see that movie in the same way again.

I learn about more religious items in the museum.

Chuppah, wedding canopy

After war of 1918 Poland was reformed. Also during this time Zionist movement solidified and polish Jews moved to Palestine in 1920-1930. The Bund Jews (Jewish socialist party, mostly secular) opposed Zionism and supported cultural autonomy in Poland, fighting antisemitism at home. I also hear about the origins of Hasidic Judaism.

Between wars there was an explosion of Jewish tourism.

The Last exhibits are on world war two and the holocaust. There is a warning at this section on the sensitive nature in case you want to skip. Warsaw ghetto was the largest of the ghettos of WW2. This museum is in area where the ghetto once was. During the war hundreds of thousand of Jewish residents of Warsaw were sent to a death camp in Treblinka.

I learn a little about the ghetto uprising and the non-response internationally about what was happening in this part of the world around ww2.

There were a few waves of immigration to Palestine. Post war pogrom causes mass exodus to Palestine. Israel formed was 1948 as a result of a desired for a Jewish homeland, the holocaust and other reasons.

There was another Mass immigration out again in 1960. Now the population of Jewish people still remaining in Poland is relatively low.

The museum is vast and took me about three hours but I could have stayed even longer. The audio guide is excellent and I recommend a visit.

For lunch I want to visit a milk bar but everything seems too heavy so I end up at a seafood restaurant where I finally try some potato pancakes with salmon and a side of grilled vegetables. Why do grilled vegetables taste better in other countries???? We make veggies tasteless in the US.

I finally make it to the Maria Skล‚odowska-Curie Museum. She may have a French sounding last name but she is 100% Polish being from Warsaw. She studied at the Sorbonne and met her husband Pierre Curie thus making her French by marriage. This two time Nobel prize winner discovered the elements radium and polonium (for Poland). Sheโ€™s also has a resume of much more accomplishments as does the rest of her family. I think their family has the most Nobel prizes of any family. Marieโ€™s husband died of an accident but she died from complications of extended radiation exposure – it was before it was determined how harmful radiation can be. Sheโ€™s actually buried in the Pantheon in Paris. The tomb is sealed with lead because of her radioactivity.

During WWI she and her daughter put together a mobile xray which cut down on war amputees considerably thus speeding recovery time for injured soldiers.

Finally I visit the Muzeum ลปycia w PRL. Itโ€™s a museum that tells about life under communism in Poland. PRL is translated to Polish Peopleโ€™s Republic. The idea of living under communism is so foreign to me so whenever I see a museum like this one I am drawn to it. Much of it is pop culture things at the time but it also talks about food rations and tickets and how difficult it is to get even simple things under communism.

My favorite part of the museum is watching the propaganda video on the Colorado beetle. I first learned about this beetle in Krakow at another communist era museum. Apparently the Polish puppet government would put out propaganda posters and videos vilifying the USA and one of them was accusing us of unleashing a beetle meant to destroy their potato crops.

After the museum I get a light dinner nearby of wine and cheese.

Before I sign off for the day Iโ€™d like to point out the photo of the flying cotton like things that are constantly in the air. I am not 100% sure where they come from but they might be from dandelions.

Interesting architecture in the neighborhood

Krakow: Wieliczka Salt Mine

Salt Mine “Wieliczka”

Today I booked a day tour to take me out to Wieliczka Salt Mine. I am sure I could have gotten out there myself but itโ€™s one less thing I have to figure out.

My tour doesnโ€™t start until ten oโ€™clock so first itโ€™s breakfast. I chose an interesting place a couple blocks away open early enough. I did not realize that I would end up getting the best breakfast Iโ€™d have in a long time (Gossip Cafe). I love the selection on my plate. To top it off they have coffee with plant based milk so my tummy will be less mad at me.

I meet up with my tour for a short 30 minute ride. The tour guide tells us that our tour of the mine wonโ€™t start for another 1.5 hours. It sounds like they were unable to get a start time right away. They made up for it by paying for entry to the nearby salt โ€œspaโ€ where we get to walk around and breathe therapeutic salt air.

When it is time for our tour of the mine we walk down 380 steps to get to the first level of which I believe there are 9 but we only tour 3 of them. We are 64 meters deep. We learn about the mine, gray salt, and how the salt is mined. We learn the requirements to be a miner.

They have many impressive salt sculptures as well as a pretty nice salt church. This isnโ€™t my first salt church (first in the Colombia) but this probably has the most detailed sculptures in it.

Copernicus, and early visitor
Salt formation
Salt formation

Finally we make it to the salt church with its impressive carvings.

Underground lake

Finally we go into a cavern where Chopin is played using lights to light up a statue.

We go further down to finally about 135 meters at the end.

It is a very long walk back to the elevators which we do get to take on the way up. However they shove us in there like sardines though.

After my tour I finally give myself some downtime and a happy hour on the patio of my hotel.

Dinner plans were to watch Klezmer music. (Authentic Jewish folk music). Despite an online recommendation I did end up at a bit of a tourist trap. The food and music were just ok but the music sounded so much better at the place next door. I did really enjoy my Zurek soup though.

Back to the hotel to rest since I have a long day at Auschwitz tomorrow.

End of Prague visit

Upside down horse

I signed up for a wine tour today to try some wines from the Czech Republic. I enjoy trying local wines when I can. The tour ends up being more of a walking tour with a little wine and snacks at the end. It is me and one family of four from the USA on this tour.

Our guide points out some Art Nouveau architecture, the famous upside horse in a mall, and a hidden park (Frantiskanska) – most of it I had already found on my own earlier in the day but its nice to learn the history behind it all. The upside down horse, Statue of King Wenceslas riding an upside-down dead horse by David ฤŒernรฝ, is in the same shopping center where I attended a movie the other night. In the same complex is the former Paternoster Lift, an elevator that doesnโ€™t stop or slow down. To ride this elevator one would have to time it just right to jump on. Unfortunately they are all closed to the public now because of safety.

Lift is behind this door
Owl traffic signal. If the owl is upright there is vacancy for horses, no vacancy if turned down.

Prague Free walking tour

In the morning I have another walking tour, this time the free one. It is on this tour I see the rotating Kafka for the third time. He isnโ€™t rotating this time but I think Iโ€™ve seen it enough. I do see another Kafka though; another Cerny work.

Martyr statue (Jan Hus)

Rococo facades

Our guide also takes through the Jewish quarter and tells us the terrible history of the Jews in Prague. There are very few Jewish people left in town to this day due to the atrocities during WWII. This town was not spared in the horrors except it is one of few places that wasnโ€™t bombed, rumor is Hitler had a soft spot for Czech Republic or had it in mind as his retirement country. Who knows.

Guide hates this buildingโ€™s architecture

After the tour I rush down to Nรกplavka park for their Saturday market. Iโ€™ve been to so many markets now that things rarely impress me anymore but it is still a nice market. Some of the booths are on boats on the water. I note the cafes right on the river. Itโ€™s just a very hot day so I grab a wrap and a strudel and desperately try to find a shaded spot to eat.

Nรกplavka Market

I commute up the hill to the Strahov monastery and associated brewery. The original plan is to tour the monastery and then try some of their beers. The heat has zapped all my energy. All I have in me is to try one beer. I later regret cutting my visit short when I realize I miss out on seeing a historical library – I love old libraries. I run back to my hotel to rest until dinner, hoping going back out later will be cooler.

My plan for the evening is to get dinner and then see the town lit up. I choose pizza for the night because I am tired of Czech food. The restaurant has no AC so it is a very uncomfortable meal. I am actually excited to go back outside since the sun is setting. I donโ€™t stay out too late but I do see the city awaken for the evening.

Mortadella pizza, one of my favorites

The next day is a mostly work day. I have to go across town to do laundry but the laundry place is probably the nicest I have seen in a while. I order fancy coffee nearby while I wait. I love this coffee house.

Coffee shop near laundry

Later I try some open face sandwiches and get a cocktail at an Anonymous themed bar. I had tried to book a massage at the Czech beer spa attached to my hotel where I would soak in a beer tub but they cancel on me because they are having equipment malfunction. The experience wasnโ€™t high on my list but I regret a little that I didnโ€™t try the spa earlier.

I leave early tomorrow to visit another city in the Czech Republic.

I like Prague but Iโ€™d come back during a shoulder season for less crowds and cooler temps. And while my hotel was generally clean and had AC, the moisture in the room messed with my sinuses so I felt like I was sick for two days-even taking cold medicine. I do worry at times that I will get sick but 9 times out of 10 as soon as I change hotels I am miraculously better. It becomes more and more apparent that I need to start staying in nicer hotels unless I want to feel terrible during my travels.

Next up ฤŒeskรฝ Krumlov.

Segovia

Segovia Aqueduct

Today is a early start. I need to take the metro to the Madrid-Chamartรญn train station to catch my train to Segovia for today’s day trip. It is a new station to me so I give myself extra time to arrive. The ride to Segovia is around 30 minutes and we go through a long tunnel during the trip. The train arrives at the high speed rail station of Segovia-Guiomar that is about 4 km outside the city center. Luckily there is bus 11 to take you into the main tourist areas. Exact change needed for the bus, or at least smaller bill, because there is no where at the train station to make change (at least when I arrived the only restaurant was closed). I find a smaller bills hidden in my bag, others in line have a harder time collecting fare.

The bus drop off is right in front of the aqueduct for which the city is famous for.

View of aqueduct right past the bus stop

The exact date of the construction of this roman aqueduct are not know but it is still a marvel to view considering this had to be done prior to 200 AD.

My gaze heads to the sky while I watch flocks of birds flying in and out of the arches in round patterns.

My train to Segovia was quite early this morning and I didn’t get a chance to eat a proper breakfast. I pass by a cafรฉ that seems like a place the locals go and I order a cafรฉ con leche and the bread-like thing that is sitting on the counter. The Torrijas de Leche ends up being a sort of French toast-style egg custard bread. I normally don’t choose sweet things in the morning but it is nice to try something different every once in a while.

I am now ready to begin my day.

The second most important thing that people visit in Segovia is the Alcรกzar de Segovia. This fairytale castle is said to have inspired Disney’s Cinderella’s castle. Not sure about that since I heard the same story about Neuschwanstein Castle in Germany. Anyway it is neat to tour and it has some great overlooks from the castle.

To get the the alcazar I take the long way and wander through the quiet streets of the Jewish quarter.

I eventually come to the city wall and I follow that to the alcazar. Soon the castle appears in the distance.

Muralla de Segovia and view of alcazar

Muralla de Segovia and view of the city

Again I spend a good amount of time looking at the ceiling. I am always fascinated about how much detail is given to ceilings.

I walk by a couple churches, including the Segovia cathedral. It is only day 3 of my travels and I’m already burned out on churches so I decide to not go inside. From the pictures I’ve seen online it has some pretty neat floors though.

I prefer instead to just wander the streets. This time of day there aren’t as many day trippers so it is nice and peaceful.

Again I walk through the Jewish quarter. I love the texture patterns on the walls of the buildings.

Jewish Quarter

I return to the busy areas. People are shopping and gathering. It is lunchtime.

I have planned in advance for lunch today. A stop to Segovia is not complete unless you try a local specialty the cochinillo (roasted suckling pig). Mesรณn de Cรกndido is recommended for suckling pig. I have made reservations in advance and have an outdoor table with a view of the aqueduct. I am very glad my temporary meat aversion is gone by the time I arrive in Spain so I am able to enjoy this very juicy pork. The skin of the pig snaps loudly when pierced with a fork. I apologize to all my vegetarian friends for the vivid description.

cochinillo

Still have some time before I needed to head to the train station so I walk down another busy street. I see more nice churches and there is a nice view of the cathedral off in the distance.

I stop for one last snack before I head back to Madrid. Its been another hot day but I’m slowly getting back into the groove of travel. I just need to slow down at times.

Spain: Toledo

Today I am taking the train from Madrid to explore the city of Toledo. Toledo is a city in Castilla-La Mancha known for its history of Arab, Jewish and Christian influences. Toledo is about a 30 minute train ride from Madrid from the Madrid Atocha station. It is easy to get a last minute ticket since there are about 15 trains a day that do this route. I have a little delay on finding where to buy the tickets initially but I eventually figure it out. I’ve decided to sign up online for a RENFE card. I earn points I’m not sure how to use but most tickets I buy from this day forward are in advance using my phone where I can log in and all my info automatically gets populated to save time.

I arrive in Toledo and follow the crowd towards town. There are a couple routes to get into the city, I choose the one with many stairs. Starting my day breaking a large sweat seems to be the theme of my traveling the next couple weeks. I like hitting the shoulder seasons when I travel but it seems I’ve hit Spain at the beginning of the hottest time of year.

On the walk into town

As I get closer to the old city I feel the need to take some photos with my fancier camera. I haven’t used it extensively for a while. It immediately starts acting up. The after market batteries I bought in Southeast Asia in 2019 are no longer holding a charge and the battery gets stuck in my camera. I can’t seem to get the stupid battery out. I eventually get it out with my room card but I vow to toss that battery later. I put the camera away for now and continue to the old town.

After I climb many stairs I end up in the main thoroughfare where there are shops and cafes. I am enjoying the shade cloth they have along the street. It is a very hot day and every little counts. I note this in another city days later. I think it is a fantastic idea.

I head first to the church Santo Tomรฉ, a small church that is famous for its El Greco The Burial of Count Orgaz.

Toledo is all about El Greco and by the end of the day I am El Greco’d out but this is a nice start. It is a quick visit.

Toledo had a view large Jewish population in the 1400’s until they were expelled in 1492. The Trรกnsito Synagogue and Jewish Museum shows the history during that time. I enjoy looking at the wooden ceiling and Mudรฉjar architecture.

I wander over to San Juan de los Reyes Monasterio built by catholic monarchs as a tribute to the victory at the battle of Toro. It is said to have been originally designated as the resting place for Isabel and Ferdinand (Note: They are in Granada). It is another great example of Mudรฉjar style. There are again some really impressive wood ceilings.

Nearby is Sinagoga de Santa Marรญa La Blanca a Jewish synagogue built in Moorish style that was later converted to a Christian church. It is once more an example of the melting of three religious cultures in this city.

I stop for a couple minutes and eat my bocadilla I bought in the morning then head over to the Museo del Greco where I observe the unhinged looking personalities in his paintings and the paintings of people who studied under him.

I’m getting el sicko of el Greco but I have one more stop on the El Greco tour, the Santa Iglesia Catedral Primada de Toledo or Toledo Cathedral.

I get burned out easily when I see tons of cathedrals but this one is definitely worth the stop. I’m glad I am here in the late afternoon since I’ve seemed to miss the crowds of all the day-trippers….yes I am a day-tripper too but I’m not in a group that crowds up the place.

The cathedral is Spanish Gothic style with a hint of Mudejar architecture inside. I especially like the main chapel with its over the top pictorial of new testament scenes.

Behind the main chapel is a pretty spectacular display that goes all the up to the ceiling where it appears heaven itself has so boldly provided the lighting.

I love this and can’t believe its the first time I’ve heard this story of the giant that carries people across the river.

A visit to the chapter house shows a display of portraits of its Archbishops as well as some nice frescos.

Soon I’ve hit the El Greco’s again. I admit they are nice but I’m pretty sure I’ve gotten my fill of El Greco for a lifetime at this point.

My favorite by far of the church is the choir. I am delighted when I notice the odd bottoms of the choir seats. The seats also contain wood carvings of various battles.

I am tired since this is my first full day of sightseeing, I am about to call it quits after the cathedral even though I still have some hours to go before it is time for my return train to Madrid. I walk by the Ermita “Mezquita” del Cristo de la Luz which is still open. Here I see a small Catholic church that was once a mosque.

With time to kill I wander a bit more. I am looking for a cafe to have a snack and a drink but I’ve hit the dreaded siesta time and there doesn’t seem to be much open that fits what I need.

I find an outdoor park with a limited menu cafe and order a beer and some mass produced patatas bravas. I am not really a big fan of potatoes in my every day life but they seem to be a staple here so I dive into a plate.

It is almost time to go so I head to the train station and catch the 7:20PM train back to Madrid. I leave town a different way than I’ve entered so I get a different perspective.

Its a short ride back to Madrid and somehow I still have energy stores. I clean up and try to check out Calle Cava Baja in Madrid, a place popular for tapas crawls. I’m still early but the place I have chosen, La Perejila, is already very busy. I insert myself into a small spot at the bar and order a vermut and a pintxo. I’ve been here before but I wanted to return since I found it charming last time. Eventually a table clears and I am offered the table. I much rather sit at the bar but I am in an awkward spot so I take the table. I mean to stop at another spot but I am exhausted and head back to the hotel. After all I have another busy day scheduled tomorrow.

Calle Cava Baja