Split, Croatia

Diocletian’s Palace

We returned the rental car to Split with relatively little drama except a little traffic jam. Again we are happy we purchased the insurance because they are very chill about the car return – they only want to remove it from the paid lot we have parked before they get charged for the time there. We give them the list of things that need fixed on the car but they don’t really make any notes or anything. It isn’t cheap for the rental but at least we aren’t stressed about extra charges and getting transport to and from the airport from old town.

We grab our luggage and the grocery bag of snacks and head to our apartment right in the middle of old town Split. There is some confusion but we eventually see the keys on top of a box at the building door. As the first door unlocks we start our two day locking and unlocking three levels of doors adventure. We are on the third floor and every floor has a locked door. The apartment has two bedrooms again. We are both pretty chill about sharing a room but its nice to spread out in your own space for a night or two. I see a washing machine so excited I don’t have to waste a few hours at a laundromat when my friend leaves. I proceed to do a load of laundry. It has to air dry so I want to get this done asap. After the load is finished some items don’t smell clean enough for me. I take some of the cleaner items out and do the load again with more soap and very hot water this time. Granted I have washed these clothes together before, some multiple times since 2019 when I did a long term trip like this before. Never have I had any of my travel clothes bleed onto any of my items. Well this time I guess the water was so hot that it caused my old pink travel underwear to change my white tank to this lilac color. It is almost comical. At least it matches exactly to one of the colors on one of the shirts I wear it under. I might just keep wearing my lilac tank or at some point buy another white one.

We head out to wander around Split and get a proper meal. You still get the tour groups here and it does it get busy but it seems easier to hide from the groups here with all the winding pathways unlike the grid layout of Dubrovnik. I am already liking the vibe here more. We pick a nicer restaurant to eat and I splurge for the leg of lamb. It is very good. We watch people line up outside an ice cream shop outside. We make plans to visit that later.

We thought about doing a sunset pirate cruise but decide to put that off until tomorrow night (mistake since it is cancelled the next night). We instead get a drink by the water and people watch for a while. There are lots of groups of women and hen parties in town from other parts of Europe for the weekend. It must be nice to have this a quick flight away.

We get drinks for walking and do some shopping and end up in the main square of Diocletian’s palace where there is a musical group singing mostly covers in the square. Everyone sits around in steps in the perimeter and the waiters from the Luxor come around to take drink orders. An occasional party of drunk women and sometimes men will stop in the center of the square to have a dance party. Everyone is enjoying themselves tonight. We have an inquisitive Croatian kid and his grandma next to us. My friend initially gets in an uncomfortable staring match with him but we soon learn he is just curious about us and he speaks English very well. He shows us his shoes that light up when we jumps. We cheer him on and tell him to show others. Soon the whole courtyard is cheering him on as he jumps. His grandmother eventually takes him away, perhaps he is getting a little too much attention for her taste.

We attempt a couple late night bars as we wanted to try to stay out late for once but every place is already very loud and crowded. We decide to take back a couple of burgers and chill back at our apartment instead. We have some sightseeing to do tomorrow but plans may get rained out. We make tentative plans to get up very early to beat the crowds coming back to take a nap if needed in the afternoon.

Fortunately we wake up relatively early the next day and wander around. We stop at the green market and admire all the fresh produce. We do some shopping and I buy a cheesy Croatian hat. We also try to feed our not-so-great cheese to some local cats and only one cat is enjoying it; I’d say at least twenty other cats flat out refused to eat the questionable cheese. These cats must get some high class food to turn down free cheese.

We stop for some pizza and more cheese – for us of course.

After lunch we visit the Etnomuseum that has an exhibit of traditional dress, jewelry and other items of the region. The exhibit includes a climb up an observation tower. Down below I can hear singing in the cylinder. I guess it has good acoustics.

Not hungry for a meal we stop for olive oil sample and tapenade at a nearby restaurant. We try their homemade olive oil bread and associated oils. Soon after we visit that popular ice cream place where I try some pistachio combination. Loving the view from yesterday we go back to the bar along the water and this time sit on the balcony to people watch. We had hope that the sunset cruise would happen today but we stare at the boat below as it rains. We finally hear from the booking lady by WhatsApp that the cruise is not happening tonight. We are both disappointed and regretting not going the night before.

We grab a snack and head back to catch the finals of Eurovision. The musical acts are real crazy. We don’t stay awake for the results though since my friend has an early flight in the morning. I’m going to miss her when she’s gone.

Cinque Terre

One of my all time favorite travel locations is in peril. Cinque Terre experienced flash floods a couple of days ago. I hope that Cinque Terre is able to recover from this disaster.
These videos are of two of the towns:
Monterosso
Vernazza
In honor of these 5 lovely towns, I am re-posting my travel journal entries from July 2004 and adding photos taken during that trip.

Cinque Terre
July 08, 2004, 09:30
We just arrived at our lodging in the Cinque Terre. Sorry I haven’t been able to update the journal in a while, we have been in the Amalfi coast where internet and modern technologies are in second place to relaxing and swimming in the ocean. I will write as much as I can for now and I will update my journal for Amalfi Coast later.
We decided to skip Florence and Tuscany for this trip due to lack of time- We did not want to rush through it in 1 1/2 days. I will have to come back and enjoy all of Tuscany on another trip.
We took an overnight train from Salerno to La Spezia. La Spezia has trains that connect you to all of the Cinque Terre villages. We have decided to stay in Riomaggoire, the first and I believe the largest village. We will be doing light walks only today. After the lack of sleep, I don’t think we will have the energy to do the heavier walks.
I must go, there is a nice gentleman waiting to use the only computer here. I promise that I will update more later.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

I love Cinque Terre
July 09, 2004, 11:46
Yesterday we arrived here on the morning train. We first took the train from Salerno to La Spezia and then inadvertently got off at the wrong stop because we did not realize that we had reached our stop (We were stuck in a tunnel and could not see the signs). We got off at the next town and stopped at the hostel there and waited until 7 am when it opened. Realizing that the hostel had a lock out time of 1-5 everyday and it looked like it was to rain yesterday, we decided to check out the lodging in the original town that we were supposed to stop at.
We decided to take the path called Via dell’ Amore (path of love). The path was a 15 minute walk. Ah, they had beds for us at Mar Mar. Not only did we have beds, we got a private room! We are staying in a dorm with eight other awesome people. We have a huge functional kitchen that we later use. We soon get along famously with others in the dorm. We a meet a couple of others who are not staying at our dorm but have been hanging around. After our nap, we go to the beach in Monterossa with our new friend Marissa. We sit on the beach and relax and I go for a swim. Floating in the ocean with my eyes closed and seeing where the waves take me is so relaxing. Unfortunately, it started raining so we decide to walk back to the train.
When we get back, it is time to prepare for dinner. Since most shops close at 7 here, the entire group goes shopping to pick up what we need for the meal. One gets wine, another pesto, another pasta, etc. We pop open the wine and begin cooking what I can only describe as an awesome meal. We set up the table on our patio outside which overlooks views of the town and the ocean. Soon the rain begins again. Thinking quickly, we grab all of our towels and lay them over the clothesline above to protect the food from the rain. It made the meal much more charming. After cleaning up from dinner, we hear music in the courtyard and decide to check it out. We arrive and find a charming puppet show. An authentic Italian puppet show. We do not understand a word that the puppets are saying but the tone of voice of the characters and the crazy movements of the characters make us laugh. We then decide it is gelato time. I have not talked about gelato like Nikki has (see her journal entry) but I believe that gelato is the one of the most awesome things in the world. It has become a staple of our diet. We finish the night at a pub that plays American popular music. As the night progresses, our entire group becomes dancing fools (except poor Nikki, I had to walk her home early). Even the owner “Franka”, a woman who I believe is in her fifties, comes out to dance and boogie with us. Unfortunately, all good things have to come to an end. The bar closes and we stumble down to the water. It is so refreshing to be by the water at night with the cool breeze. Some guy plays the bongos behind me as Marissa dances. I decide that I am too tired to hold a conversation anymore so I stumble back to my room.
I don’t want to leave this place.
Well it is time to go do the monster 5 hour walk.

Another late start, and back in Rome
July 10, 2004, 18:10
Yesterday, after Thursday nights events, we were on to a late start for our big hike. We decide to start at Monterossa which seems to be the popular thing to do. I think I have never walked up so many steps in my life(Not even in the Amalfi Coast). When we arrive at the top, it is totally worth it. From the top, you can see the most picturesque of villages and it continues that way throughout our walk. Along the way we also witness lemon farms, olive farms, and of course grape vineyards. All I can say is that all of the beautiful pictures that I have seen of Italy, have been proved to be true.
Most of you know that I have been preparing for this trip by walking long distances, well it wasn’t enough. I can walk far distances now but those darn steps (or what I call non-steps – random rocks thrown on the ground to resemble steps) kicked my butt. I survived though, and I am really happy that I did the walk. It was the most spectacular view that I have ever seen – well almost as good as the Amalfi coast. I guess they are about tied in my opinion.
We take only the first and second trails, Monterossa to Vernazza, and Vernazza to Corgnelia. Those two were the best, hardest, and longest trails and we didn’t have time to do the rest.
While stopping for Gelati in Vernazza (I swear they put drugs in the stuff – can’t resist) we stop to watch these insane boys jump into the water off of a ledge that is about 8 feet higher than the water only to be thrown back onto the ledge when a huge wave comes in. It was crazy. After talking to others we discover that they have been doing it since they were real young and it is a daily event for them – for hours a day. It kept us entertained for quite a while. Later on, we saw the boys by the pharmacy patching up their bleeding legs and arms. Nikki and I have pictures of this event if you want to see it.
Returning back to Riomaggoire, we meet up with our roommates/new friends for dinner. New roommates join us later for wine on the terrace. Good conversation. We again return to our bar for a drink. Franka greets us with hugs and kisses. I am tired after one beer and have to leave on early train next morning, I go to bed. While getting ready for bed, hear group of drunken Americans/English speaking nationals singing loudly by the water. I get to sleep despite this.
Today, I am back in Rome after a four hour train ride this morning. I visited the Colosseum and wandered around town before I happened upon this internet cafe. I have already had gelati twice today. I am going to need gelati detox when I get home. I might try to get an authentic Italian meal once more and visit the pub around the corner from my hotel. Maybe I can meet some new people before I leave. Anyway, don’t want to waste any more time indoors, must get ready to see Rome at night.
Be home soon!

Note: Some of the entries were edited for grammar and readability.