Warsaw: Museums, Parks and Food Tours

Today I had planned to visit POLIN museum. POLIN is a museum of the history of polish Jews. I am usually really very detail oriented in planning. I don’t love planning out every hour of every day it is a shorter trip than I gotten accustomed to so I don’t have as much flexibility in my schedule. And I make mistakes in planning. Today was one of them. I thought I had pre-purchased a ticket to the POLIN museum. I arrive at the museum at 10am, what I thought was opening time. I double check my ticket to make sure I don’t have a limited time slot and I don’t. I can come anytime starting at 10am. The thing is I don’t realize it is closed today. It’s typical in European countries that there is usually one day a week that a museum is closed and I know this. It can be any day of the week but usually it is a Monday or Tuesday. Today is a Tuesday. I actually had in my spreadsheet that its closed today but I guess I never cross referenced it when I bought my ticket. And I never confirmed the date of my ticket because the day I bought it for was the day I arrived in Warsaw, so double failure. I hop of the bus at the POLIN museum and figure out how to move my schedule around so I can visit this museum on another day. I think I have figured it out.

Instead I head to the Pawiak Prison which is nearby to POLIN and opening in just a few minutes. Pawiak Prison was originally built in 1835 for use by the Russian occupation during that time and it was used to house polish political prisoners and others. It was most recently was used by the nazi Germany occupiers to imprison local polish people.

First I stop by the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes in front of the POLIN museum.

Memorial Square of the Ghetto Heroes of Warsaw

Pawiak Prison was bombed by Germans at end of world war 2 like they did elsewhere to destroy evidence of war crimes. What exists on the site today is a partially reconstructed museum corridor of the original prison. There is a statue of a tree outside that represents a tree that made it through the destruction but later died.

Statue to commemorate old tree outside prison

Prison model. Women were in right smaller buildings, men were on the left.

The crosses on map above are the execution sites of 30,000 people that were executed during the German occupation.

The prison was meant to hold 700 inmates but the Germans kept about 3000 there at a time. There were about 100,000 people here during occupation. I learn how Germans tortured prisoners with hot coals. Many guards at the prison were locals who helped the prisoners part of underground movement.

There is some information on WWII history like we learn about the Molotov -Ribbentrop Pact between Stalin & Hitler that occurs on September 1939. It essentially divided Poland in half and installed a puppet government in Warsaw and Krakow.

At the end of the tour there is day in the life exhibit where they talk about how prisoners survived on 500-800 calories a day.

I downloaded the audio tour on my phone. There is lots of English language explanations but the audio tour gives more insight to the exhibits.

I walk back towards the old town and stop at the Warsaw Uprising Monument and Chopin’s Bench, a bench that plays music. The Warsaw monument is to commemorate the uprising of Warsaw citizens again the German aggression.

Since apparently I don’t believe in slowing down and resting during this trip I try a hotdog for lunch at the Polish 7-11 equivalent called Zabka. I thought it looked good previously but it is disappointing. The goal is to visit Lazienki park prior to my food tour this afternoon. I wait at a bus stop off what looks like a busy highway. There is a short wait for the bus so when I see it coming I get closer to the curb to board and I see it drive right past my a$$ like I am not even there. I have no idea what happened. It is 15 minutes to the next bus so I plan next time to make a scene flagging it down. Luckily I don’t need to because the bus actually stops this time.

I arrive to Łazienki Park I have a lovely walk around the large park. I also admire the palace from the outside. I am trying not to eat too much before a food tour I have scheduled this afternoon but I’m still hungry after my garbage hotdog. I order a ice cream. I also need to eat the trail mix in my purse. Side note – a really large bird hears me digging me into the nuts in my trail mix and decides he wants some of it so I am being followed by a bird for a few meters.

Also notable in this park is the Chopin memorial. One of the things I really wanted to do this trip is view a Chopin concert in this park as they have every summer. But I am a week too early for the concert season. I still enjoy sitting in the area where the concerts happen and imagine how it would be surrounded by the beauty and classical music.

I take the bus back to old town for food tour but I am too early. I walk down to the roof top garden at the Warsaw University. I have to say this garden has got to be in my top ten favorite gardens. They make an urban rooftop garden out of otherwise wasted space of the roof of a library. It is so nice and peaceful up there. You can tell a lot of thought was put into designing this garden.

We start our food tour with some borscht and pierogi. I’ve wanted to try borscht but I keep putting it off so I am glad it is included in the tastings. Borscht is basically meat stock, beetroot and seasonings and there are different flairs of borscht but this one is the broth only. We save some aside to dump our pierogi in since that it is popular to have dumplings in the soup. We try 3 different types of pierogi: Ruski (potato and cheese), cabbage and mushroom, and pork. Last time Ruski was my favorite but this time I am loving the pork. I finally get to try a sweet pierogi at this stop. It is filled with plum. I plan to try more sweet pierogi later in my travels.

Next we stop at a traditional polish restaurant that I actually had on my list, Specjały Regionalne. Here we try some vodka, meats and assorted polish cheeses. We are then served gołąbki or stuffed cabbage. This time I try it the traditional way with tomato sauce.

Next is a stop for a beer and traditional bar food. Since I have a beer intolerance issue I opt for a cognac instead. The food we are served is bacon lard on bread topped with a pickle. I know it sounds gross but it isn’t bad. The pickle is really good. I also get to try bigos again which is cabbage with meats usually topped on bread (I forgot picture).

Finally we try doughnuts or Pączki. I decide I am not a fan anymore. Pączki are too dry for me. I think I am spoiled with having one fresh and warm. I enjoy a sweet occasionally but if I am going to indulge it has to be something I really like. I think I am done with the doughnuts (but not the open face pastries, those I still like).

After the tour I am too tired to do anything big but it’s too early to go to bed so I stop and try that cherry liquor once more. It is hitting me way harder this time. I have a long walk back to my flat afterwards through areas I haven’t visited yet. Still an early night though.

More Aarhus, open air museum

The next morning I walk down to Den Gamle By, an open air museum. I am really digging these open air museums lately. I love popping into a historic town and seeing how people lived. It’s voyarism at its best.

They must have built this entrance later because it seems they actually have us start now in present day instead of old times. I can tell later there was another entrance in the back of the complex. So basically I start in present day times, exploring stores and apartments set up on how people in Denmark live today. The apartments they show are pretty large. I move onto the 1950-1970’s stores and apartments. Finally its the early 1900’s and 1800’s.

I slowly glide through businesses and apartments from 1974 (the year I was born!). Again it is fun walking through apartments, one of a hippie commune, and wondering how life was like. There is an apartment that is set up like it houses Turkish immigrants and I learn how much labor had to be imported because they could not find native residents who could fill the employment needs.

At some point I end up in a museum, it is easy to get carried away here.

1800’s

I know I have missed something so I head back to see the 1970s gynecological office. Seems a little out of a horror movie. But things have surely gotten better, Right?

After Den Gamble By I travel over to Dokk1 which is basically a library. There is a very interesting art work here by the car park which is a city upside down. The car park itself is pretty cool. People park their car into available docks or elevators and I am assuming the car gets taken below. They then retrieve it later.

I later walk along the harbor a bit and then past a historic theater near my hotel.

I head to dinner, during this time I notice a bunch of white captain hats. A quick google tells me that those wearing them are recent graduates from high school and it is a Denmark tradition. Watching the graduates party seems to be a regular thing during the rest of my time in Denmark.

The next day I let myself rest a bit only leaving briefly to get coffee, where I get temporarily trapped by the rain. I am woken up by fireworks at 11:30 PM and loud birds in the early morning, a pattern that repeats the next night. Why I decided to not wear ear plugs when sleeping with an open window is beyond me. I eventually get my motivation and walk towards the water to explore one of the newer neighborhoods. I had originally planned to bike there as one blogger suggested but it isn’t a far walk. Sometimes I prefer walking so I can catch things along the way. Today is summer solstice so I’ll have plenty of sun to explore today.

Watching bike commuters while I’m trapped by rain.

I make it out to a Danish brunch and I’m a fan. The menu lists a bunch of choices and you can choose from a list of items to make your own breakfast combination.

I walk by rows and rows of boats. It is windy but the rain has stopped and the sun is out, I wonder why people are not out today. I know it is a week day but I always had the impression that Northern Europeans disappear from the office when they begin to see sunny days. I round the corner and see some sailboats. It seems like they are practicing tacking (I believe that is the word for turning around a water craft with a sail a term I only know because I had an ex determined to teach me how to wind surf).

I admire all the architecture. With all the windows I am able to slightly see into some apartments. I am very jealous of this lifestyle. Due to me not working and blowing all my money on travel I doubt I’ll be able to afford this lifestyle during my lifetime.

I walk past a row of wooden loft like houses. I can see completely inside and there are no curtains in sight (again with the large windows). It appears they can be rented out for stays. They are the definition of hygge. I have already decided that if I ever own a home again at least one room will be inspired by this.

I walk to another pier that seems to be the place for water sports. There is an area for swimming and a place to practice wake boarding. I watch for a while.

I had decided to head back toward the Latin quarter when I spot a dome in the distance on another pier. There are square foot gardens, wildflower patches and a cafe. The cafe seems to be occupied by a private meeting so I wander around for a bit instead.

It is here I decide to finally rent the bike, although my ride back is pretty short. I guess I could have taken it out for longer but it seems that it is going to rain again.

After a break in my room I head to a nice cafe. I am not impressed with my meal but the atmosphere is nice. I even get chilly and need to use my jacket. I have a cocktail at a local bar and then head to 7-eleven to get a water and some snacks. While in line a very intoxicated high school grad caresses my arm. He isn’t trying to be a jerk, he is just very drunk and friendly, even telling the older lady in line next to me that she is beautiful. It is a very weird interaction. I witness broken beer bottles and cups of half empty alcohol randomly placed around town. I am sure it is not always like this, is it?

Tomorrow I’m off to Ribe, Denmark’s oldest town.

Singapore: Aliens, more flowers, and crabs

I have another full day planned. I wake up at 4 am and that gives me time to do my daily stretches and catch up on correspondence back home. I don’t take for granted having those connections back home available to me, even if its over email and text. I am a loner but it can sometimes get lonely traveling alone. Those connections are everything especially since I am not one to approach strangers on a regular basis.

I am visiting Gardens By the Bay today. The Gardens is a large complex of different attractions next to the Marina Bay Sands resort.

Shoes, slip sliding away.

My shoes are not working for me in Singapore. Most of the sidewalks are of smoother tile. I guess I have worn the traction down because I am in constant fear of slipping when it rains, and it rains frequently. One day I decide I wear my hiking boots for city sightseeing and the same thing happens (those have traction). How are people not falling down all the time in this city?

Crazy Alien land

I start my day at the cloud forest at opening time because I read that the large waterfall inside is best viewed without the crowds. That is correct because only a handful of people enter at the same time as I.

The cloud forest is Avatar themed. Symbols and creatures from the movies are incorporated in the exhibits. It is kind of corny but kids probably dig it. I am just enjoying exploring the high walkway without crowds.

Downstairs is a secret garden where there is a plant display.

After cloud forest I visit Gardens by the Bay, the distinct tree like structure in Singapore. You don’t need a ticket to see them from below but it is required if you want to go up the observation or do the skywalk. I only do the observation tower because I think I am coming back later for the night show (I do not).

After Gardens by the bay I visit the flower dome that is nearby the cloud forest. It is kind of cool to see all the distinct plants they have from regions all over the world. It is quite busy since they are still celebrating the Chinese new year here. I should charge for my photography services because I am getting asked non-stop to take photos of couples and families. I wouldn’t mind so much but NONE of them offered to take a photo of me in return which I am used to…its just as well since 90% of the time others take the most unflattering photos of me anyway. I start hiding from and playing dumb to people approaching me. My time is important too, they can ask others to help.

Mud crabs, Messy mess

I would go out and do more sightseeing but I have a reservation for the main event. I am dining at the local restaurant chain Jumbo restaurant where I am going to finally try some chili crab. It isn’t cheap and my order takes a while to come out but it is all worth it. The chili crab (mud crab and sauce) is really as good as they say. The only downside is that it is incredibly messy to eat. I’ve eaten enough crab in my life to know how to get at that sweet meat but I’ve never had to deal with crab soaked in a thick red sauce. They give you plastic gloves to protect your hands but somehow I think that makes things even harder – I am messier than I would have been if I had used my bare hands. I don’t dare without the gloves because no one else is. I wish I would have ordered more rolls as well. They closed the kitchen for lunch service when I was dining so I couldn’t order more rolls soak up the crab. It is a crime that so much of that delicious chili crab sauce is going to waste. I now see why you can get other food items with the chili crab sauce. It is good.

I thought I had reservations at the cocktail bar at the top of the Marina Bay Sands tonight (Reservation for 2 although I am 1 because it was the only choice). I thought it might be nice to watch the water show from up top. Midway through the day I am confused why google is not picking up the reservation from my email and putting it on my calendar like it does for every-freaking-thing else. I double check the reservation, try to add it to my calendar with the link provided and check my calendar again. It is not there. I look again. My reservation is for NEXT Monday. I am out of the country by then. You just have to laugh at yourself sometimes with the blunders. Anyway the event disappearing from my calendar gave me permission to blow everything else off that I had planned for the evening. I am exhausted from the heat and the walking. Back at home prior to the trip I was pretty sedentary planning for the trip with the exception of moving all my things in storage. My body needs time to adjust to the activity once again. Also I am 3 years older than the last time I tried to do this type of traveling and closer to the 5-0. I feel the changes in my body. I wish I would have taken advantage of my vitality in my younger age.

Anyway I am going to spend the rest of the evening packing and drinking the plethora of water bottles left for me by the hotel maid. She must think I am dehydrated and she is probably correct. I have not been drinking my normal amount of water because I fear frequent bathroom breaks.

Next stop Malaysia….

Do you like flowers? Singapore Edition.

Today is my first full day in Singapore. There are so many choices of things to but I decide to take the subway across town to the Singapore Botanic Gardens but first I want to see if any food stalls are open. I stop by the Maxwell center and there are few open. I order a dumpling ramen. It isn’t as good as the food I had yesterday but it will have to do as breakfast.

I forget to mention it is British rules of traffic here and nearby countries. All traffic should be on the left, walking and driving. It’s hard to remember when I am so programmed to stay to the right. Not sure locals or tourists care much though. No one seemed to give me attitude about being on the wrong side of things all the time.

The subway system is quite good. It is very clean and comfortable and you can use your credit card to tap on and off if it is a new type card; although at some point my main credit card stopped working there and I had to used my back up card.

The subway drops me off at one end of the park. The Botanic Gardens are quite large and it takes much time to get from one end to the other. At first I just wander and enjoy nature. It is free to the public (except the orchid garden) so locals use it for jogging and I suppose a respite from the busy city. I hear sounds of crickets and birds but also the sounds of cars in the background because Iam still really close to the road. I travel deeper in the park.

I come to the National Orchid Garden and decide to wait in the long hot line. I wonder if it is worth it and it is. The orchid garden is quite impressive. So many beautiful and different types of orchids.

It is time for a siesta of sorts. It has rained this morning and while it helped cool things down briefly it is still so hot when the sun is out that it drains me. I head back to my hotel to rest up for my evening plans. I am meeting up with some women I met yesterday to check out the Lunar New Year’s festivities tonight.

Alhambra

The main event of today is a visit to the Alhambra, a royal residence in Granada during the Nasrid kingdom (mid 13th century). The fortress like structure sits on a hill and can be viewed from most of Granada.

I have time to take advantage of the included breakfast at the hotel this morning since my reservation for Nasrid’s palaces is not until 11:00 am. To visit Nasrid’s palaces you must book in advance since it is very popular. With the booking you can enter the rest of the complex as early as 8:30 am if you like. Breakfast first then I will head up to begin my visit.

I enjoy the continental-style buffet that includes a torta and meat & cheese slices as well as fruit. I take advantage of the patio and the mild weather in the morning.

The Alhambra compound entrance is about a 30 minute walk by taking the back pedestrian entrance. There are ways to get there by bus but I didn’t bother researching that.

It is a constant walk uphill to get to the entrance. I walk between the area that holds the Generalife and the other side that has the palaces; but down below. In fact we walk under a walkway.

When I finally get to the entrance tour guides approach me. I forgo the tours since I have downloaded tour information on my phone and would rather take things at my leisure. When I approach the entrance gates it is like crossing the border to another country. At Alhambra you need to keep your ticket and passport readily available at all times because they will constantly ask to see it. Alhambra has more passport control than most countries I’ve been to. It gets kind of annoying because each time I take out my passport it is another opportunity for it to get lost or stolen.

Once I am inside I head over near the nasrid palaces because I have not left myself time to do anything else. I pass by a church and walk down a pretty shrub pathway and head down a hill. I line up outside the nasrid palaces waiting for my entrance to be called.

They let us in at batches I believe every 15 minutes. Once you are in you are free to view at your own pace. My strategy is to fall behind the pack in the hope that I can get a few pictures without crowds. I can’t fall too far behind though because the next group will be entering soon after us. Another couple or two has the same idea. I can’t get completely people-free photos because the couples need to do their photoshoots. Everyone is an instagram model these days. I won’t complain about it here because I complained about it enough during my sabbatical posts. One needs to just accept it is part of travel now.

I enjoy Mudéjar and Islamic style architecture so touring the palaces is a treat.

Loving all the textured patterns.

I catch a window area with a colorful stained glass ceiling that shoots rays of color down below. It is beautiful.

The Hall of the Two Sisters – I love how the light reflects a colorful prism

As the tour comes to a close there is a walkway with tremendous views of the city and a nice courtyard.

City views

After my tour of the palaces I head over the Alcazaba or military fortress. The fortress has some good views of Granada and the nearby Sierra Nevada mountains.

I almost never have a sweet tooth but I am hot from being outdoors and this ice cream sounds like the ideal lunch/snack right now. It hits the spot.

Next I visit the Palace of Carlos V next door. The circle architecture is kind of cool and there is a small artifact museum inside as well as an art museum upstairs but otherwise the building is not very exciting and doesn’t need a long visit.

I am finished with this portion of Alhambra so I head over to Generalife. Generalife was the sultan’s summer palace and gardens. The palace is not as impressive as the nasrid palaces but the gardens are very beautiful. I almost wish I brought a picnic lunch with me to enjoy with the flowers and the views.

There is a staircase that has relaxing streams of water pouring down the handrails. At the top of the staircase I find some refreshing cold water to refill my water bottle.

At the top there is a nice breeze. One almost forgets how impossibly hot it is down below. Again more beautiful views of the Nasrid palaces, the city of Granada, and Sacromonte.