Novi Sad

Today it is supposed to rain and it never does but what we do have is overcast weather in very comfortable temperatures. It makes the day tour I have today very enjoyable (limited sweating). North of Belgrade is very flat and agricultural. I am heading to the city of Novi Sad and I see sunflowers, grapes, apples,pears and peaches on the way. Also on the way I see small towns with distinct houses with living spaces in back of the house.

Our first stop Monastery Krusedol in Fruska Gora where Serbian school trips go because it is important in history. There are amazing frescos but that some are destroyed, and some rebuilt new frescos over old. The former king and other royals are buried here. It is here I learn that the Serbian Orthodox church uses the Julian calendar.

Next we stop at a wine tasting room in the town of Sremski Karlovci for red Bermet wine tasting. It is like vermouth and a dessert red wine with herbs. It’s only made in the Fruska Gora region (like champagne only made in Champagne valley). Bermet is strong at 16-18% alcohol. I only get to try one wine. I had wanted to buy a bottle but other guests in our group monopolized all the time and I had to leave before I was able to purchase something else to try. It is a distinct wine.

Novi Sad is a Serbian city that used to be part of Austria empire and also sits on the Danube river. It is a culturally diverse laidback city. Most guidebooks will tell you to take at least a day trip here from Belgrade but I would suggest an overnight or two. I definitely would have liked more time in this city.

The famous fortress here, Petrovaradin Fortress, is closed because of bad storm week before. There are lots of trees down blocking the entry roads. The fortress also holds a famous annual EXIT music festival. Apparently as far as fortresses go it is worth a visit – a reason to return.

During our city tour our guide tells us about the writing in both Cyrillic and Latin letters. The Cyrillic is a bit different here than what you’d see in Russia though. I have an urge to learn Cyrillic after his quick lesson.

We get some free time in Novi Sad to walk around and get lunch. I head to lunch first because I had a very small breakfast. I go to a traditional restaurant that is decorated like someone’s home. I had my heart set on the Sarna (cabbage rolls) since I’ve craved it since I was in Bosnia in April but unfortunately it isn’t the season for it, the sauerkraut is fermenting right now for the upcoming season. I order the stuffed peppers instead. Lots of meat and very satisfying.

I wander around town some more and then meet up with my tour group to head back to Belgrade. I really wish I would have had two nights overnight in this charming city. I definitely want to return to Novi Sad someday and do a night or two to really experience it.

After back in town I decide to get something quick for dinner and buy a bottle of Serbian wine since I thought I’d have more of an opportunity to try some today. More sightseeing scheduled for tomorrow.

Kutna Hora (and creepy bone church)

One of the things I really wanted to do upon my trip to Czech Republic is take a trip out to the town of Kutna Hora and see their creepy bone decorated church. I did research on the logistics of getting there and decided to opt for a pre-planned coach tour instead. Sometimes taking group trips is more simple and gives me an opportunity to be around other travelers.

For the most part the tour is a good idea; I have nice conversations with people on the tour but I do feel rushed at times and something about the sound system on the van has me missing much of the guide’s commentary anyway even though I am sitting close to him.

We stop first at the bone church or the Sedlec Ossuary. The actual church is called All Saints. The story behind the bone decor is that it was quite common to move old graves to make room for church expansions. In this case nearby bones are literally thrown in the basement to make room for whatever development comes next. At some point a sculptor is hired by the ruling family, Schwarzenberg, to do something with all the bones. The end result is what is seen today: Bone chandeliers, bone buildings, and ornamental bone decor. No pictures are allowed inside but I do snap some from the church above at one angle only. The photos here are the ones I purchased from postcards in the gift store. I don’t send many postcards but I have a feeling these might be useful.

After the bone church we head into the town of Kutna Hora to look at another gothic church, St. Barbara’s Cathedral. One thing to note is that the area was rich in silver and very prosperous. This grand church reflects that since St Barbara was the patron saint of miners.

Our guide takes us further into town and then gives us some free time to wander around or eat. It is late in the afternoon and I dont want to eat a full meal this close to dinner so I decide on an ice cream instead. I try the sea buckthorn flavor, an orange flavor I’ve never seen before. It’s a type of berry and its sour. Funky just enough for me.

We return back to Prague and I decide to try the highly recommended ham in old town. You buy by weight at an outdoor stand. In advance I have read the warnings about asking for a smaller portion but I am still upsold on the ham. I also try the potato dumpling pork sauerkraut dish called Vepřo knedlo zelo(also recommended). Both my orders are very disappointing to me. All the food is too salty and I cannot eat it. The ham is also very fatty and tough. It sits here half eaten before a homeless person asks me for my leftovers. I am glad that someone else will at least enjoy it. I am starting to think Czech food is not my thing. I thought since it is close to German food I’d be into it but it sits too heavy on my stomach.

I am in the old town square just in time to see the Astrological clock. The clock dings and apostles rotate around.

I am touring the Prague Castle tomorrow….

Jayce, Pliva Lakes, and Travnik

This might be the two glasses of affordable wine and jet lag talking but I really like Bosnia so far. I slept almost a complete night last night so I hope I am well rested for today: a day tour of areas north of Sarajevo.

We start the tour by visiting the Pliva lakes. One of the advantages of visiting off season is that we have the lakes almost completely to ourselves. One disadvantage is that it is chilly and overcast. During the summer people swim and do water sports here. We only have a short stop but it is beautiful for the time we visit.

The highlight of the area is the mill houses on the lake. They were once used for local housing but now they are mostly a tourist attraction.

I also learn about the fun but political Bosnian music group Dubioza Kolektiv. I am really enjoying their tunes while we go from location to location

We then walk the old town of Jajce to the Jajce fortress (Yie-sz to pronounce, I only include this because I had no idea). It is the best preserved fortress from the former Bosnian Kingdom. The Bosnian kingdom lasted about 100 years around 1300’s to 1400’s. We enjoy nice views of the city of Jajce.

We then visit the old Bear Tower, named so because the walls were strong as a bear.

We walk down stairs to the catacombs that were never actually used for their intended purpose – to bury Hrvoje Vukcic Hrvatinic and his family. It was used as a church. Notable is the cross symbol on the lower level accompanied by the moon and the sun. These two symbols often appear in Bosnian history as they tried to mix the former pagan symbols with Christianity symbols.

We walk into the newer part of town and see two memorials to people fallen in the war of Yugoslavia. We have lunch at a local restaurant where I finally try Cevapi. The bread is the most amazing thing I’ve had in a while. I added the cream cheese on the side and it takes like a combination of sour cream and butter. Very rich.

We walk over to the Jajce waterfall. My guides insist this place is even more beautiful in the summer (it is Spring). I don’t see how it can get much better than this.

Our next stop is at Travnik where we visit another fortress, this town is very important in the origins of the Bosnian Kingdom. It is in the museum we learn about all the different eras of Bosnia from prehistoric, to the Ottoman, Austo-Hungarian, Yugoslavia, to present day. One display is traditional dress from the three distinct ethic groups: Bosnians, Serbs and Croats. We learn about an annual scrambled egg festival.

We stop for Bosnian coffee, not unlike Turkish coffee if you are familar. This place near the water has a special where the cofffee comes with a cigarette – smoking can be considered a national pastime here, it is still wildly popular.

We then visit an old restored mosque. It is very nice inside. I forgot my scarf today but luckily they had some to borrow.

After our last stop it is the long ride back to Sarajevo to complete the tour. As always I wish I had more time at all of the stops but the tour is a great introduction to a beautiful country.

For dinner I choose a small but cute restaurant. I didn’t try the Travnik cheese earlier so I want to try that and other local cheeses but knowing I cannot handle all that cheese at once I settle on only the one. It is a feta like cheese. Very salty but good. For my main course I order a squid ink seafood risotto. I am also very happy with my affordable glasses of local wine. It is raining and I am jet lagged so I head to bed after dinner.