David Černý – Growing With Leala

I signed up for a wine tour today to try some wines from the Czech Republic. I enjoy trying local wines when I can. The tour ends up being more of a walking tour with a little wine and snacks at the end. It is me and one family of four from the USA on this tour.

Our guide points out some Art Nouveau architecture, the famous upside horse in a mall, and a hidden park (Frantiskanska) – most of it I had already found on my own earlier in the day but its nice to learn the history behind it all. The upside down horse, Statue of King Wenceslas riding an upside-down dead horse by David Černý, is in the same shopping center where I attended a movie the other night. In the same complex is the former Paternoster Lift, an elevator that doesn’t stop or slow down. To ride this elevator one would have to time it just right to jump on. Unfortunately they are all closed to the public now because of safety.

Owl traffic signal. If the owl is upright there is vacancy for horses, no vacancy if turned down.

Prague Free walking tour

In the morning I have another walking tour, this time the free one. It is on this tour I see the rotating Kafka for the third time. He isn’t rotating this time but I think I’ve seen it enough. I do see another Kafka though; another Cerny work.

Astronomical clock and old town hall, only building partially destroyed in war

Rococo facades

Our guide also takes through the Jewish quarter and tells us the terrible history of the Jews in Prague. There are very few Jewish people left in town to this day due to the atrocities during WWII. This town was not spared in the horrors except it is one of few places that wasn’t bombed, rumor is Hitler had a soft spot for Czech Republic or had it in mind as his retirement country. Who knows.

Guide hates this building’s architecture

After the tour I rush down to Náplavka park for their Saturday market. I’ve been to so many markets now that things rarely impress me anymore but it is still a nice market. Some of the booths are on boats on the water. I note the cafes right on the river. It’s just a very hot day so I grab a wrap and a strudel and desperately try to find a shaded spot to eat.

I commute up the hill to the Strahov monastery and associated brewery. The original plan is to tour the monastery and then try some of their beers. The heat has zapped all my energy. All I have in me is to try one beer. I later regret cutting my visit short when I realize I miss out on seeing a historical library – I love old libraries. I run back to my hotel to rest until dinner, hoping going back out later will be cooler.

My plan for the evening is to get dinner and then see the town lit up. I choose pizza for the night because I am tired of Czech food. The restaurant has no AC so it is a very uncomfortable meal. I am actually excited to go back outside since the sun is setting. I don’t stay out too late but I do see the city awaken for the evening.

The next day is a mostly work day. I have to go across town to do laundry but the laundry place is probably the nicest I have seen in a while. I order fancy coffee nearby while I wait. I love this coffee house.

Later I try some open face sandwiches and get a cocktail at an Anonymous themed bar. I had tried to book a massage at the Czech beer spa attached to my hotel where I would soak in a beer tub but they cancel on me because they are having equipment malfunction. The experience wasn’t high on my list but I regret a little that I didn’t try the spa earlier.

I leave early tomorrow to visit another city in the Czech Republic.

I like Prague but I’d come back during a shoulder season for less crowds and cooler temps. And while my hotel was generally clean and had AC, the moisture in the room messed with my sinuses so I felt like I was sick for two days-even taking cold medicine. I do worry at times that I will get sick but 9 times out of 10 as soon as I change hotels I am miraculously better. It becomes more and more apparent that I need to start staying in nicer hotels unless I want to feel terrible during my travels.

Next up Český Krumlov.

I arrive pretty early in Prague. I am lucky, once again my room is available right away. I am not a big fan of this hotel choice. The hotel has AC, is in a good location – but my only window is small and doesn’t let much light in. The room is musty. I can expect to have sinus issues in a day or two like I tend to get in rooms like this.

Czech Republic, or Czechia, has been on my travel radar for a while. Once known as Bohemia it used to be part of a larger country called Czechoslovakia that was under communist rule.

I rest a little bit and then go out to get lunch. I end up at a very touristy but traditional Czech restaurant. There is a person playing the accordion while we eat. I try the goulash and the recommended dark beer. The meat and sauce of the goulash is good but not sure I am a fan of the bread dumplings. Their purpose is more so to soak up the sauce but alone they are too much bread and not tons of flavor. They seem to be quite popular here though.

After lunch I walk around trying to make the most of the day. I come to a square where I see a rotating head of Franz Kafka for the first of three times during my stay in Prague (other two times on guided tours). This time I am actually able to see it in action since it only runs once a hour. This monument built by David Černý was actually commissioned by the shopping center next door. They wanted a complimentary statue of the famous local author to attract attention to their shopping center. And it worked. There are also some hanging men (and women) hanging about town. One popular one is by Černý and is supposed to be Sigmund Freud.

Next I try the famous trdelnik dessert, very similar to other deserts in the region (aka chimney cake). I am not impressed. It is a dry doughy vessel but the inside custard, strawberries and light whipped topping are not bad. I am told later by a guide that you need to order it fresh and without anything inserted. Apparently they use the stale bread because it is a better vessel for ice cream and such. Overall the dessert is not my cup of tea so I’ll just skip it for now on.

I walk across the Charles Bridge to the other side of Prague. The bridge is crowded and hot. I am looking forward to reaching the other side and the park that is my destination. I first stop to see a mill troll and a John Lennon tribute wall. The wall at one time may have been nice but I see tour guides encouraging graffiti on this wall that is pretty much a scribble wall. I am sure the writings have meaning but its not attractive to look at.

I head to the nearby park to enjoy some shade and get a look at some creepy baby statues with barcode heads. Another David Černý work of course.

I head back toward the other side again and while I cross the bridge I watch paddle boats paddling around and boats waiting to travel through canal locks to higher level.

I walk down to the famous dancing house. There is a cocktail bar at top that I’d like to visit sometime.

I happen upon a hidden park (first of a couple times during my visit). It is a beautiful green space in the middle of a busy city.

I decide to go see a movie in an art house theater, Cinema Svetozor. The theater shows movies in the original language so I see the Wes Andersen’s Asteroid City.

Luckily I don’t have to wake up early tomorrow because my scheduled day trip doesn’t begin until after noon. I have a tour to the town of Kutna Hora booked for tomorrow.

Images from around town at night.

Tag: David Černý

End of Prague visit

Prague Free walking tour

Czechia or Czech Republic