Morocco: Drive to the Desert

Today is another early start as we have a very long drive to the Sahara. Lots of winding roads and vast change in scenery during our nine hour drive. We stop along the way for lunch and a couple of scenic pictures but other than that the majority of the day in in the van learning about the nomadic culture (Amazigh or Berber) and taking occasional naps. It is around one of the ski town we witness some Barbary macaque monkeys along the road. We are in the Middle Atlas Mountains.

There is a cedar tree and animal depletion in the Atlas Mountains but they are working to restore it to its more natural state. Ski towns are becoming more popular. The area is changing. Today we notice a vast change in temperature as it decreases down to the 30’s F (Yes we are still in Morocco). We also see letters and symbols on the sides of some of the mountains we drive past while we drive in the valley.

We drive through the Ziz valley where we stop to get high view of a large oasis and see lots of date trees below. We also learn about Date festival in oasis Erfoud أرفود .

We drive by a large reservoir that almost seems out of place with all the sand. The Hassan Addakhil Dam is an artificial dam created to control the Ziz river flow. We stop for a quick lunch along the way. Today is a long drive so the break is nice.

We arrive at the desert and after checking into our room in a kasbah-like hotel we go for a short dune hike to view the sunset. It is very beautiful out here. I wish we had more than one night in the desert. We watch the sunset over the dunes and then enjoy a nice dinner.

Our guide as well as my travel companion take a roll down the dunes for fun. I would partake but I am dehydrated and the roll down would surely give me a headache.

Tomorrow we have another full day exploring what the desert has to show us.

Fes

Fes tannery

We will leave for the Fes city tour at 9:00 AM. The first part of the tour is by van where we stop at the royal gates, decorated only in the 20th century to make the royal palace more visually appealing and we learn about the history of the area. We learn how the architecture changes over time due to the Berbers (original name Amazigh), the arabs and the Jewish settlers. We drive uphill to get amazing view of the Medina below. It is vast. The Medina is a combination of shops and residential in narrow streets that bustle with energy daily. There are tourists but this is a place where locals do their shopping. 

We stop at an overlook the see the city from above. You can tell it is a densely populated city with centuries and centuries of growth built on the top of old development.

Before we visit the Medina we stop at an art collective called Art Naji to view potters and mosaic artisans at work. We watch a tagine pot being made on a pottery wheel. Another room has artisans that paint on designs by hand.

Next we visit the old Medina where a guide is recommended since there are over 9,000 streets and alleyways, many narrow and dead end. Luckily we have a local guide named Aziz.

We travel down increasingly narrow alleyways. It’s almost like we are going on a special adventure but this is the everyday life for people who live here and down some of these narrow alleys are their homes.

There are so many different food and spice booths. We learn about traditional weavers and other artisans like wood carvers. We walk through the section where they are dyeing yarn and fabric in jugs but you can see the dyed water that had been dumped on the alley. We walk through the puddles hoping we don’t dye our shoes in the process. I know my long hanging pants to get muddy at some point so it’s probably good to not wear your best clothes here.

We pass by Al Karaouine University – the oldest university in the world. Outside the university are metalworkers banging on items they are constructing.

We view and learn about the famous Fes tannery. We learn how all the leather is dyed to make the high quality products they sell.

During our tour we visit a Quranic school (Madrasa) and we also visit outside the Tomb of the founder of Fes.

We have lunch at an old riad converted to a restaurant. Raids are large family houses interior of the medina that would house very large families traditionally. Some riads are normal homes but some are elaborately decorated and you’d never know from the outside. Today many of them are converted to hotels or restaurants.

We want to stay on our own after the tour but our guide strongly advises against it due to the confusing nature of the medina. We probably would have tried to stay anyway but it is rainy and I uncomfortably wet – I decide it would be best to return with the group.

Later in the evening after resting at the hotel we go next door for dinner at what appears to be a restaurant with a lively band playing. Entire families, including toddlers, are enjoying the fun late into the evening. Others from our tour join us. It is a fun impromptu night out.

Tomorrow we head toward the mountains and then to the desert.