Ribe: Nightwatchmen and Witches and Vikings, Oh My!

Today I am in the small historic town of Ribe, Denmark. I suppose I added this city to my itinerary because it is known as the oldest town in Denmark. On the water it was inhabited as early as 8th century. It was important in trade and said to have produced some early coins here. An early king of Denmark settled here and afterwards the community grew. Apparently Vikings and Christians lived here in peace for a while. I learn later that at some point the stench got so bad in the town in the Middle Ages from refuse and cow manure. I swear I still smell the cow manure throughout the town to this day.

Ribe Denmark

I start my visit with a check-in to my historic hotel Dagmar Hotel. Said to be the oldest hotel in Ribe it is located in the courtyard with the large cathedral. I was warned in advance that I need to make dinner reservations at the hotel restaurant ahead of time and I did not for whatever reason. I ask if they have availability for tomorrow and they do for a special outdoor BBQ event.

I drop my bags and start visiting some museums. All the museums seem to close early here so my only chance to see all the ones I want is to start right away. I start at Hex! Museum of Witch Hunt. I had this museum bookmarked but I wasn’t sure what to expect. I am pleasantly surprised at the thorough and interactive exhibit about witches and witch trials in Ribe and throughout Denmark. There are exhibits that talk about witches in recent pop culture and a very heartbreaking exhibit on how perceived witches are treated in other countries today. One witch falsely accused names a group of other witches that are part of nobility; as a result the persecution of witches greatly reduces. The audio guide is a must especially if you are an English only speaker. I spend over two hours here barely leaving time for the attached museum.

The museum nearby is the childhood home of Jacob A. Riis, a name I have heard before in NYC but had no idea who he was. Apparently the namesake of the beach in Queens New York I would visit is a famous former citizen of this town. He became famous for his writings and photographs of the working class and poor of NYC. I learned so much about his work from this museum.

I have an early dinner then meet up with the town night watchman, a tour. The night watchman is a historical figure in the town of Ribe. The watchmen were tasked with securing the town in the evenings. The tour is given in both Danish and English (if necessary) and sometimes singing is involved. Just to warn you that at least one of the stories does not really translate to English. The watchman gives us a city tour and takes about the architecture and history of the city. The tour is free and lasts about 45 minutes.

The next morning I walk over to the wooden bridges and admire the ducks with the royal blue coloring. Most are sleeping though.

Afterwards I head over to the Viking Museum which is more like a history museum of the area. Vikings are discussed a bit but only as a group that inhabited the area during early times. Most importantly is the location was beneficial for trade for many surrounding countries.

The rest of the day I explore town and get a snack. I have a large dinner planned this early evening so I don’t to eat too much today.

Groups of high school students use horse drawn carriages to carry them around from party to party. Loud music is blasting randomly from different courtyards.

Dinner at the BBQ event is better than I expected with all the grilled meats juicier than normal. The do it yourself salad bar is a nice touch, especially when it is very challenging to get a sufficient amount of vegetables daily. There is live music while I eat.

I travel to Copenhagen tomorrow so I attempt to go to bed at a decent hour but music gets louder outside my hotel and my ear plugs are rendered useless. I wish I am just out celebrating as well. Hopefully I am able to nap on the train to Copenhagen.

More Aarhus, open air museum

The next morning I walk down to Den Gamle By, an open air museum. I am really digging these open air museums lately. I love popping into a historic town and seeing how people lived. It’s voyarism at its best.

They must have built this entrance later because it seems they actually have us start now in present day instead of old times. I can tell later there was another entrance in the back of the complex. So basically I start in present day times, exploring stores and apartments set up on how people in Denmark live today. The apartments they show are pretty large. I move onto the 1950-1970’s stores and apartments. Finally its the early 1900’s and 1800’s.

I slowly glide through businesses and apartments from 1974 (the year I was born!). Again it is fun walking through apartments, one of a hippie commune, and wondering how life was like. There is an apartment that is set up like it houses Turkish immigrants and I learn how much labor had to be imported because they could not find native residents who could fill the employment needs.

At some point I end up in a museum, it is easy to get carried away here.

1800’s

Festival rides

I know I have missed something so I head back to see the 1970s gynecological office. Seems a little out of a horror movie. But things have surely gotten better, Right?

After Den Gamble By I travel over to Dokk1 which is basically a library. There is a very interesting art work here by the car park which is a city upside down. The car park itself is pretty cool. People park their car into available docks or elevators and I am assuming the car gets taken below. They then retrieve it later.

I later walk along the harbor a bit and then past a historic theater near my hotel.

I head to dinner, during this time I notice a bunch of white captain hats. A quick google tells me that those wearing them are recent graduates from high school and it is a Denmark tradition. Watching the graduates party seems to be a regular thing during the rest of my time in Denmark.

The next day I let myself rest a bit only leaving briefly to get coffee, where I get temporarily trapped by the rain. I am woken up by fireworks at 11:30 PM and loud birds in the early morning, a pattern that repeats the next night. Why I decided to not wear ear plugs when sleeping with an open window is beyond me. I eventually get my motivation and walk towards the water to explore one of the newer neighborhoods. I had originally planned to bike there as one blogger suggested but it isn’t a far walk. Sometimes I prefer walking so I can catch things along the way. Today is summer solstice so I’ll have plenty of sun to explore today.

Watching bike commuters while I’m trapped by rain.

I make it out to a Danish brunch and I’m a fan. The menu lists a bunch of choices and you can choose from a list of items to make your own breakfast combination.

I walk by rows and rows of boats. It is windy but the rain has stopped and the sun is out, I wonder why people are not out today. I know it is a week day but I always had the impression that Northern Europeans disappear from the office when they begin to see sunny days. I round the corner and see some sailboats. It seems like they are practicing tacking (I believe that is the word for turning around a water craft with a sail a term I only know because I had an ex determined to teach me how to wind surf).

I admire all the architecture. With all the windows I am able to slightly see into some apartments. I am very jealous of this lifestyle. Due to me not working and blowing all my money on travel I doubt I’ll be able to afford this lifestyle during my lifetime.

I walk past a row of wooden loft like houses. I can see completely inside and there are no curtains in sight (again with the large windows). It appears they can be rented out for stays. They are the definition of hygge. I have already decided that if I ever own a home again at least one room will be inspired by this.

I walk to another pier that seems to be the place for water sports. There is an area for swimming and a place to practice wake boarding. I watch for a while.

I had decided to head back toward the Latin quarter when I spot a dome in the distance on another pier. There are square foot gardens, wildflower patches and a cafe. The cafe seems to be occupied by a private meeting so I wander around for a bit instead.

It is here I decide to finally rent the bike, although my ride back is pretty short. I guess I could have taken it out for longer but it seems that it is going to rain again.

After a break in my room I head to a nice cafe. I am not impressed with my meal but the atmosphere is nice. I even get chilly and need to use my jacket. I have a cocktail at a local bar and then head to 7-eleven to get a water and some snacks. While in line a very intoxicated high school grad caresses my arm. He isn’t trying to be a jerk, he is just very drunk and friendly, even telling the older lady in line next to me that she is beautiful. It is a very weird interaction. I witness broken beer bottles and cups of half empty alcohol randomly placed around town. I am sure it is not always like this, is it?

Tomorrow I’m off to Ribe, Denmark’s oldest town.